62 seahorse 10 bottom motor cover

[gain11]

my 62 seahorse 10hp has a loose bottom motor cover, the part that the top sits on. i can't figure out how to tighten it. There seems to be studs going down from top inside and studs coming up from bottom outside but they are seperate?! Also I get a misfire or jerk at lower rpms, any ideas?

 

[Chinewalker]

Re: 62 seahorse 10 bottom motor cover

Hi Gain,<br /> Between the studs you've noted is a rubber bushing. Originally the studs were bonded to the bushing on both ends. However, with age and use the studs can shear off and the cowling is no longer connected to the mounts.<br /> There are a couple of possible fixes. Check with your local Johnson/Evinrude dealer and see if they might have some in stock - you never know. If not, get creative. You can make something similar to the originals by using a section of 1/4" I.D. fuel line as a bushing and sliding it over a bolt to similate the bushing's shock absorbing affect. Basically, create a rubber sandwich, such that the bolt comes in through the bottom of the mounting bracket, with a flat washer next, followed by the hose (about 3/4" section), followed by another flat washer, followed by the cowling, follwed by a Nylock nut. Use 1/4-20 bolts, preferably stainless, in a length that approximates the original bushing's length including the studs. Do not simply bolt the cowling to the mounts, as vibration and such can crack the mounting brackets. It'll also make the motor louder as more vibration is translated into noise in the cowling, etc.<br /> I don't know if there's enough clearance between the cowling and the brackets to sneak the old bushings out and get the rubber hose piece in there. without having to remove the powerhead. If you do have to remove the powerhead, it's not a huge deal, but does add another step to the process...<br /> Good luck!<br />- Scott

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: 62 seahorse 10 bottom motor cover

You can buy ones similair to the originals at Mcmaster-Carr. They only seem to have mild steel ends though - not aluminum threads like the original. <br /><br />Hope this helps!

 

[rwise]

Re: 62 seahorse 10 bottom motor cover

gain11<br />as for the (misfire/jerk) sneazing the low speed mixture is to lean. You may need to clean the carb, but if it runs good other than that just rich it up a bit about 1/8 turn at a time and let it run for a few seconds before you go further. There are posts here that explain this in great detail!<br />Richard

 

[alcan]

Re: 62 seahorse 10 bottom motor cover

These little rubber isolators are a real pet peave to me. I can't stand motors when they are broke. They rattle and bang around, loose bonnet and all. Another thing that peaves me is the cost of those little darlings, you will need four of them. Then the only way to get a good repair here is to remove the power head so you can get in there and do it right. Chinewalker gives a good alternative to buying new isolator's. Be sure to follow his instructions to the letter. Defenatly buy stainless hardware of the correct size. Take your time and make good installation. Knock out the old broken off square indexs, don't just run a drill up through there and bolt her up with what ever you have in the coffee can. A half-donkey job here will just end up giving you fits. Do a nice job it will make your motor a whole lot more enjoyable. You will need all four isolators because when you try and remove the ones that aren't broke, they will.