63 Lonestar Medallion restoration

[shimanok2]

Hi everybody. I created a post last fall when I bought this boat and was met with some great information. Much thanks to everyone who helped.

With the warmer weather I've just begun working again on the Lone Star. This past weekend I removed all the hardware and began stripping the paint with Klean Strip. After some basic cleaning I started to inspect the wood in the transom. It seems that it is in great shape except for the top left and right corners where there were pieces of hardware (stern eyes). Both of these areas (about the size of wallet) are in bad shape and it seems to be impossible to remove the wood and install a new piece. It is secured on the bottom and sides and is covered on the top by the aluminum cover (blue) shown in the second picture. If I can removed the rotted areas is there anything I can use (epoxy, sealer, etc) to prevent any further damage? It doesn't seem that the aluminum transom cap can be removed, but I am welcome to anyone proving me wrong on this.



There are numerous holes, 1/4" or less, on the transom I'm guessing from underwater equipment that was used. After I remove the paint and clean it up, can these be patched with JB-weld and then sanded and painted? I've used it on virtually everything before, just not on an aluminum hull.

As far as the windshield goes, I was hoping to remove and disassemble it for cleaning and polishing. I can't seem to find a way to removed it though. Has anyone successfully accomplished this?

Thanks in advance everybody. Without these forums I'd be clueless.

 

[Willyclay]

Re: 63 Lonestar Medallion restoration

I missed your first thread but will jump in here and tell you about my 23 year experience with a 1965 Lonestar Medallion II. It was 16ft-6in. C/L length and rated for 110HP max. It had a sick Mercury Mark 75 on it when I got the boat and I swapped that out for a 1962 Johnson 75HP that did everything we wanted to do but required a prop change to ski. Not a speed-demon but the fairly shallow V-hull likes smooth water. Mine had the Foam-Pac structural system that eliminated all the ribs and stringers in the bilge area. I used a shovel to remove the rotten plywood transom core after I removed the combination transom cap/splashwell by drilling out the rivets. The outer aluminum skin of the transom looked like Swiss cheese and I determined the repair to be unfeasible. I found another boat for less $$ than the cost of the repair to the Lonestar so it went to the recycler. I still feel guilty that I did not repair it.

I removed the glass from my boat's windshield before it went to the recycler and I believe the secret is at the corners where the sides attach. My old geezer memory does not recall if it was screws or rivets but I think that's where you have to start.

I too have successfully used JB Weld for many repairs and did so on my Lonestar. An alternative is Grey Marine Tex.

IMHO if you go to all the trouble to remove the transom cap/splashwell to get access to the wooden transom core, I would recommend replacing the almost 50 year old original wood with laminated plywood sealed with epoxy on all edges.

Good luck with your project to save that great old boat!

 

[shimanok2]

Re: 63 Lonestar Medallion restoration

Thanks for the info Willyclay. I will take another good look at the window section to see if I can indeed remove it.

I'm still hesitant to drill out the rivets in order to remove the splash-well/transom cap. I do agree in using "laminated plywood sealed with epoxy on all edges" as a replacement, but it seems that it would have to be installed in two pieces and then braced even further with an aluminum plate or something similar. Does this sound about right?

Again thanks for all the help!

 

[Bob_VT]

Re: 63 Lonestar Medallion restoration

The windshield is attached with bolts through the bottom............. you have to be like a tiny contorted person to get the nuts off and the nuts might have to be cut off with a dremal tool.

The transom wood will come out the back through the top. Look at the Starcraft restorations for an example. Do not be too aggressive on removing pieces w/o advice. Once installed properly there will not be a need for an aluminum plate for extra bracing.

Small round holes can be filled with a rivet and sealed.

FORGET removing the cap........ it will not be necessary.

Post a few pictures of your transom and some taken from the inside too......

Remember this PRIMARY rule - NO PRESSURE TREATED WOOD ALLOWED with aluminum.

Great looking hull!

 

[shimanok2]

Re: 63 Lonestar Medallion restoration

That's a good idea Bob_VT, I never thought of it being attached through the bottom. I'll take a look at that next chance I get.

I don't see any way possible that the wood will come out through the top. The splash-well wraps around the top 4-5" of the wood on the inside and then comes back down on the outside another few inches. The cap is riveted in place on the sides too. Maybe some pictures will help...



No pressure treated, Gotcha. So marine grade with extra epoxy on all surfaces?

Thanks for all the help Bob_VT! Its a project now but I can image it being very nice once restored.

 

[Willyclay]

Re: 63 Lonestar Medallion restoration

the combination transom cap/splashwell by drilling out the rivets.

I misspoke! The transom cap and the splashwell were two separate pieces on my Lonestar. Transom cap was held in place by SS bolts completely through the transom and splashwell. Once the cap was removed, the splashwell could be removed by drilling out the rivets.

Good luck!

 

[Willyclay]

Re: 63 Lonestar Medallion restoration

I don't see any way possible that the wood will come out through the top.

Agree and I even mocked-up a new transom core with a sheet of luaun plywood to test getting it into place without anymore disassemby. I concluded that the only way to get a single-piece installed was to remove the rivets from the deck cap/hull joint on one side until I created enough space to allow me to slide the new transom core into place. I chose not to do that and then considered a "poured" core. That's when the $$$ started adding up for me. Good luck!

 

[shimanok2]

Re: 63 Lonestar Medallion restoration

Yeah, that 2 piece system would be a nice feature right about a now. The bolts that secure the outside of the splash-well have all been removed. I'm thinking I might just bend it upwards so the old wood can come out. Then install the new wood and bend it back down. The bolts will hold the outside flush anyway.

I've never heard of a "poured" core. It sure does sound expensive though. What is it comprised of?

I'm still thinking a 2 piece core with an aluminum plate for bracing would be a good way to go, assuming I can't remove it from the top. I could always leave it alone for now. Are there any good products for curing and preventing further rot?

 

[ezmobee]

Re: 63 Lonestar Medallion restoration

That's an awesome hull. I'll enjoy watching this one.

 

[Willyclay]

Re: 63 Lonestar Medallion restoration

I've never heard of a "poured" core. It sure does sound expensive though. What is it comprised of?

I'm still thinking a 2 piece core with an aluminum plate for bracing would be a good way to go, assuming I can't remove it from the top. I could always leave it alone for now. Are there any good products for curing and preventing further rot?

Some members have used Seacast or Nida-Core. Others have even made their own mix of poly and chopped glass.

FYI, my Lonestar was factory-equipped with a 2inX2inX3/16in aluminum angle at the full width of the transom on the inside with SS bolts through everything. It was located just above where the lower motor transom bracket bolts penetrate the transom.

There are lots of rot-treatment products out there but I use a 50/50 mix of ethylene glycol automotive anti-freeze since rot is a living organism that has to killed. One boat building website advocates the use of 100% acrylic-latex exterior house paint to prevent water penetration. Remember, it's probably the bottom edge that has the greatest exposure to water. Good luck!

 

[shimanok2]

Re: 63 Lonestar Medallion restoration

Thanks ezmobee! It is an awesome hull. I'm looking forward to the finished product.

Willyclay, I believe mine is similar, Aluminum angle the full length on the bottom and then some on the sides as well.

What is the other 50% of the mix you use? Or is this something premixed 50/50 from the factory? I remember researching this when I bought the boat and seeing or hearing about some type of epoxy product to seal the rotted areas. I haven't been able to find this again though.

The bottom edge is actually in good shape. It stops as the same height as the stringers so wouldn't really encounter any water from the bilge. The only reason the top corners are bad is because of improper installation of the stern eyes.

 

[Willyclay]

Re: 63 Lonestar Medallion restoration

I was not sure looking at your pictures but you confirmed the transom core does not extend fully to the bottom like mine did. When you are searching rebuild/restoration threads for info, look for some Blue Fin boats because I believe they used the same design. Also, after looking at your pictures again, you MAY be able to get a one-piece core into place because your transom is cut much wider than mine.

The 50/50 anti-freeze mix I use is with water. I buy concentrate and mix it myself because I hate paying for water at the auto parts store.

I had the same problem with my stern eyes. Also, do not cut/remove the aluminum side flanges to access the transom core. They look just like mine which were riveted into the hull and make a channel to hold the transom core in place. That bottom flange is totally different from mine because I did not have stringers or ribs and everything was bonded into place with foam.

 

[shimanok2]

Re: 63 Lonestar Medallion restoration

After looking at it again from the inside I don't think I will be able to get it in as 1 piece. The wood that's in there now is wider than the cap to the splash-well where the replacement will have to go through. This could get interesting

I will look into the antifreeze mixture. Something about pouring %50 water into the wood that doesn't sound right though.

Yeah, I don't plan on removing or modifying anything structural other than the wood.

 

[shimanok2]

Re: 63 Lonestar Medallion restoration

So I had a chance to work on the boat again this weekend. A lot of the paint was stripped off and just some general cleaning was done. I was thinking of what I could do about the transom wood when my father in law, who's helping me, pointed pout that I could just remove the transom cap-gunwale section as a whole. This would then let me completely remove the old transom, patch up the aluminum and then reinstall new. There were roughly 50 rivets on each side anmd about 20 on the transom that had to be removed before the everything would knock loose. The results were amazing though, perfect access to the one area I had no idea how to handle.



Now for the decisions. The wood that I pulled out is 1 3/4" thick and 14" inches high. Using standard 3/4" marine ply will make it very difficult to get to that thickness. I do have access to a planar however. I'm thinking of getting a solid piece of wood and planing down to thickness, then sealing it several times before installation. I can then seal all of the holes that are created when bolting it to the aluminum angle already in the boat. Any thoughts for or against this?

I have yet to determine how the windshield will be removed, but this will hopefully happen soon. An interesting feature of this boat is a sliding middle window and bow section. It allows one to walk out into the bow for who knows what. While it is cool, I think it would be easier to completely seal the bow section and install a normal window. I know it will somewhat "ruin" the boat, but I'm not really going for a classic restoration anyway.

Enjoy the pictures and have a nice week!

 

[Willyclay]

Re: 63 Lonestar Medallion restoration

Great news about your access to the transom core! IMHO you should not use one piece of solid dimensional lumber for the new core because plywood, done right, will provide greater strength. The greatest number of ply for a given dimension is the objective. My original was 17 ply and I could make a replacement with two pieces of 1/2 inch (5 ply each) laminated around one piece of 3/4 inch (7 ply) OR two pieces of 3/4 inch around one piece of 1/4 inch (3 ply). In addition to sealing all surfaces and edges with epoxy or paint, you can achieve maximum protection by pre-drilling all bolt holes slightly oversize, filling the holes with epoxy and then drill them the actual size required for the final installation. The epoxy inserts will seal the inner core against rot and that beauty will last another 50 years!

Like Bob_VT said previously, that windshield can only be removed by taking off the nuts holding it to the bow deck. Mine had nylon self-locking nuts and some snapped the bolts when turned. Others actually spun the head of the bolt in the bottom channel of the windshield frame and had to be cut. FYI, the bolts looked like small toilet flange bolts with elongated heads. My 1965 Medallion II also had the sliding forward hatch arrangement and I really liked it for access to handling lines on/off the forward cleats. Good luck with yours!

 

[ezmobee]

Re: 63 Lonestar Medallion restoration

Standard transoms are comprised of 2 sheets of 3/4" sandwiched together. You certainly don't need the extra thickness for strength. If I were you, I'd take and make myself a new one using the 3/4" and lightly screw them together. Check the fitment and see if the slightly reduced thickness is going to cause you any problems (also remember you'll eventually have a couple coats of epoxy on each side). If it's not going to be a problem, great! If it is, then maybe sandwich a piece of luan or something in the middle or build the whole thing up with fiberglass or something. I agree wholeheartedly with Willy that you really want to stick with plywood. Or there's always 2 sheets of 5/8" and a sheet of 1/2"!

 

[shimanok2]

Re: 63 Lonestar Medallion restoration

If you both are saying stick with marine grade ply then that's what will happen. I'll most likely do a 1/4" piece between two 3/4" pieces. What is the best method for attaching them all together; Glue, Screws, combination of both? Also what epoxy or paint is used to seal everything and keep the water out? Is it specific for marine use?

I noticed that there are two small patches of corrosion where the stern eyes (steel i'm guessing) met the aluminum. My father-in-law said he could remove the bad portions and TIG weld new pieces on, but how do I prevent corrosion at these areas in the future? Do they make aluminum eyes?

The windshield might happen this weekend, weather pending.

Thanks again all!

 

[ezmobee]

Re: 63 Lonestar Medallion restoration

Marine ply is a superior product so if you have access to it and don't mind the price, by all means go with. Most of us are just using standard exterior ply. The Arauco ply from Lowes is particularly nice.

Most of us are sealing our transoms with epoxy resin and it is also ideal for gluing the sheets together. U.S. Composites, Clark Craft, iboats, are sources for it.

Is the corrosion all the way through? Of not, I'd clean it up and shmeer some JB Weld in the area and call it a day. Stainless shouldn't cause an issue.

 

[shimanok2]

Re: 63 Lonestar Medallion restoration

I have no problem paying the extra for the superior product. I like doing things once and correctly.

I plan on using the Gluvit epoxy sealer on all the rivets and seams. Can this also be used to seal the transom? Reading through the product information it doesn't really mention adhesion as one of it's properties. Possibly use another product to laminate the sheets together?

The corrosion did make it all the way through where the right stern eye was. I do plan on using JB on the smaller holes but I figured if the offer of welding was there I might as well take it. Why wouldn't corrosion e an issue with stainless on aluminum?

 

[Willyclay]

Re: 63 Lonestar Medallion restoration

Why wouldn't corrosion e an issue with stainless on aluminum?

Apparently LoneStar believed there could be a problem because every piece of hardware attached to my boat had a nylon protector installed between it and the aluminum. Regardless of whether the hardware was a cleat, bolt, machine screw or bow/stern eye, it was separated from the aluminum. It worked because in the final analysis of my boat's corrosion problem, it was not where the hardware was mounted but rather the outer skin of the transom where water was trapped in the plywood core.

I have never used Gluvit so cannot comment on its properties. The link below is to a thread by forum member Woodonglass who provides great visuals on his recommendations for replacing transoms, stringers and floors in post #622. Good luck!

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=384982&page=25&p=3586813#post3586813