64 Johnson 9.5 “Turtle Motor”

[64Johnson9.5]

Can someone possibly tell me why I’m am not getting Spark to the plugs on my 9.5. I’ve replaced the coils and cleaned the breaker points with sand paper. Still no luck getting Spark, even after disconnecting the kill switch. I’ve also tried new spark plugs. Could the wiring be the issue, or is there an underlying issue I could be missing.any help would be appreciated.

 

[racerone]

Coils set with correct air gap ?---Coils hooked up to the correct set of points ?-----Points must be absolutely clean after sandpapering.----Cam upside down ?----Visit---leroysramblings----For tutorials.

 

[64Johnson9.5]

Coils set with correct air gap ?---Coils hooked up to the correct set of points ?-----Points must be absolutely clean after sandpapering.----Cam upside down ?----Visit---leroysramblings----For tutorials.

Thanks for the information! This gives me a start to work on.

 

[Crosbyman]

try to measure resistance from plug boots to engine body ... should see 4-8 KOhms solid
did you take time to install new stranded solid wire (no carbon resistive stuff !!!)
did you test the new coils for continuity on both primary to primary )
(0-1ohm) and primary to HV pin out (4-8Kohms)

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[racerone]

When you replaced the coils , did you have the magneto plate off ?--The plug wires loosened from clamps ?-----Did you push / screw the wires into the new coils ?

 

[64Johnson9.5]

When you replaced the coils , did you have the magneto plate off ?--The plug wires loosened from clamps ?-----Did you push / screw the wires into the new coils ?

No the magneto plate wasn’t removed when the coils were replaced. The lower coil fed into a sleeve and the upper went to the terminal where it was secured.

 

[Crosbyman]

There is only one good way to change coils and reconnect new ones properly to the plug wires .

you must remove the mag plate. while out change the 7mm wires to new stranded solid wires.

take a picture of the plate underside for referrence fish in new wires up top and screw the coils on the wires and gently reinsert the coils in place , use the old wires to measure the length of the new ones) intsall the little covers boots on the coils HV connection or stuff some dielectric grease in and around the rims. screw the wires in at least 5/16 - 3/8 inches on the HV screw pin.

reinstall the wires and boots with the wire clips under the mag wheel (use the picture you took)

test your new wires/boots for continuity to the primary wires and expect 4-8 kohms

reinstall the mag plate adjust point gaps to open at TDC (max .020 on the high side of the cam)

test for sparks

 

[64Johnson9.5]

Appreciate the help. She cranked like a champ and idled fine for a while. A new minor issue has developed though, the motor will not shift into neutral. It’ll shift into forward and reverse but no neutral. Any ideas?

 

[racerone]

Are the 2 notches in the brass connecter lined up with the holes for the bolts ?----Is the shift adjusted correctly at the top near / in front of the carburetor ?

 

[Crosbyman]

 

[Crosbyman]

 

[Crosbyman]

so what was wrong with the ignition causing no sparks ?? feedback on findings is important to others having similar issues !

 

[64Johnson9.5]

so what was wrong with the ignition causing no sparks ?? feedback on findings is important to others having similar issues !

Oh okay. It turned out to be a continuity issue between the plug wires and the ignition coils. The Lower, (secondary) point wasn’t making contact with the plug wires because the copper wire had oxidized on the end. I unhooked the coil and trimmed the end off the Plug wire till I saw fresh looking copper wire. She cranked like a champ then.

 

[64Johnson9.5]

Oh okay. It turned out to be a continuity issue between the plug wires and the ignition coils. The Lower, (secondary) point wasn’t making contact with the plug wires because the copper wire had oxidized on the end. I unhooked the coil and trimmed the end off the Plug wire till I saw fresh looking copper wire. She cranked like a champ then.

Appreciate the help yall

 

[Crosbyman]

for next time...

 

[racerone]

In the middle picture ---I did not know that there could be so many things wrong with these ignitions.------That is why electronic ignition is so popular.---When it fails you install new parts in minutes and away you go.

 

[64Johnson9.5]

Thanks, I’m sure that’ll come in handy. Great points to start troubleshooting from

 

[64Johnson9.5]

I appreciate the help that was give before here, so I thought y’all might have some more information about my 9.5. (By the way the motor purrs like a kitten) The current situation is that she won’t put out any water. First, I’ve heard that the prop has to spin in order to force enough water into the motor while testing in a barrel, is this true? The impeller is fine, the water pump has been resealed with silicone, so what would be the next reasonable step to getting water coming out of this motor? Any help would be appreciated

 

[racerone]

Not true.----When the motor is running in neutral it pumps plenty of water !-----A common mistake is not enuff water in the test bucket.-----Water must be 8" above the pump.

 

[64Johnson9.5]

Not true.----When the motor is running in neutral it pumps plenty of water !-----A common mistake is not enuff water in the test bucket.-----Water must be 8" above the pump.

I tried this, but stopped when I noticed water was coming up inside the cover and around the internal components. I’m not too familiar with outboards, is this supposed to happen?