65esl72s 65hp Johnson need help

[Nicktr23]

I recently purchased a 1972 65hp Johnson outboard. When I try to crank the engine with the spark plugs in, i didn't get any sparks on any cylinder.
I got a new battery, took out the sparks plugs, using a wire wrapped around the plugs and grounding it, I see spark jumping the gap on all cylinder. Now when I install the spark plugs back in, the motor won't crank really slow and stop. I keep on turning the key and all I hear is click click probably from the solenoid. Does that mean my starter is bad? Im guessing my bad no spark issues can be related to the starter not cranking the flywheel fast enough to generate sparks.
Again, with sparks plugs out, turning the key will turn the flywheel good. But the bendix gear does not recede. I have to manually turn the flywheel for the Hendrix to recede. I'm guess this is normal because if the motor start, the flywheel spins and bendix will disengage.
With spark plugs in place, the starter only engage the flywheel but very very slow and stop. Does this mean the starter is bad? Cable is bad? Solenoid? My guess is the starter.

 

[Chinewalker]

First, new battery does not mean fully charged battery. Second, use jumper cables, jumping directly to the starter motor to take the solenoid and battery cables out of the equation. If starter spins better, cables or connections may be an issue. Sometimes, disassembling, cleaning and lightly oiling the starter motor can help, and also gives you an idea of the state of the brushes. More often than not, a "worn out starter" is actually just worn out brushes. New brushes are inexpensive and not hard to install.

 

[Nicktr23]

First, new battery does not mean fully charged battery. Second, use jumper cables, jumping directly to the starter motor to take the solenoid and battery cables out of the equation. If starter spins better, cables or connections may be an issue. Sometimes, disassembling, cleaning and lightly oiling the starter motor can help, and also gives you an idea of the state of the brushes. More often than not, a "worn out starter" is actually just worn out brushes. New brushes are inexpensive and not hard to install.

I tear apart the starter. It looks like it's impossible to put back together as the springs won't allow the brushes or whatver it's call down to assemble. Scratching my head how one would do that. I went ahead and ordered another starter. Now have to wait for it to come and see if the engine would start.

 

[F_R]

The people at the starter factory love that. All you needed was a putty knife.
But before even taking it apart, you should have done some simple electrical tests. They are called voltage tests. More specifically, voltage drop tests. If you do not know how to do that, the library is full of books.

 

[Nicktr23]

Man why didn't I think of that?
With the plugs off, the starter operate normally. But with the plugs in, under load, it just wouldn't crank. Would a voltage drop test help with that?
I will look up how to do one.
I'm not sure if I also mentioned that the starter is hot to the touch after trying to crank. When I took the starter apart, there's crack on the rubber? Im not sure if that's normal. Also one of the brushes lead was not attached. Again first time opening up a starter and not sure if that's normal. The other three brushes attached to their lead.

 

[racerone]

I install new brushes all the time $4.50 from local starter / alternator place.

 

[F_R]

You say one of the brush leads was not attached? Well, need we say more? There's your trouble.

 

[Nicktr23]

Thank you for the spatula tool suggested. I used a piece of cardboard instead and it worked. The starter that i ordered mounting holes didn't line up correctly. So I used the old starter housing. I will try to fire it up tomorrow. Wish me luck.

 

[Nicktr23]

Can someone tell me where I can order that plastic tab and what part number.

 

[F_R]

You are asking about the part with red circles around it? Part number 0395448 Joint Kit, Ball & Socket. At any Evinrude dealer or right here at iboats through their OEM associate.

The doo-hicky the pencil is pointing at is a sender unit for a temperature gauge. Not the ideal place to mount it, but so be it.

 

[Nicktr23]

Thank you!.

 

[oldboat1]

Starter will get hot from bad connections (new one too), particularly with multiple attempts to crank. Start with the battery cables, and shine them up bright (sandpaper). Get yourself a $10 adjustable spark tester for testing plugs -- not the inline type. Pull the plugs while playing with the starter (or testing for spark, for that matter), then put them back in if it's cranking over nice and fast. If it's not cranking fast with the plugs out (upwards of 200 rpm -- will sound fast), you might not get spark for that reason.

 

[Nicktr23]

i dialed in my problem to a bad starter. with the spark plugs removed, with the old starter, i was able to get spark. with them on, i didnt. I was able to fire the engine with the new starter installed. it was a $50 fix so I'm happy. but now the horn went off when I ran it with the ear muff. I must have ruined the impeller while running all these test.
things I've done so far...
took apart the carbs for a cleaning and reassembled them. they're pretty clean, i didnt see much gum up. is the airbox required? to reassemble the airbox, i would need to get gasket and seems to me like it isn't really necessary as it's not really a sealed box. am I right? I think the gasket is serving as a dampener?

 

[jbuote]

Not a pro, but I think you want the air box...
At least on my 50 hp of same era, it helps keep crud from getting sucked into the carbs, plus there is a hose from the airbox to the intake manifold to return any excess fuel/oil mix back into the engine.. Without it, you'll probably end up with fuel/oil mix in the belly pan from the carbs for various reasons.. (tilting up for trailer, etc... )

 

[F_R]

That engine has tuned exhaust for maximum power. The intake is part of the tuning, since the system depends on sound waves. Sure, it will run without it, and possibly run pretty well. But to get the most out of it, put the air box back on.

 

[StarTed]

Just noticed your post.

I have a '76 75 HP Evinrude. Same motor basically with the same problem.

It turned out that one of my ground brushes had the wire loose inside and pulled out when I took it apart. That made the starter run with about half power at times depending upon the connection.

I replaced the brushes. As I recall I cut a U notch in a thin piece of tin and bent it back in a U shape so it went over the end piece to hold the brushes in. Slid it back off when almost assembled, j

Hope that helps

 

[oldboat1]

+1 on using the airbox. If you now are happy with the starter operation, suggest moving to the lower unit. Check the oil, maybe pressure test the l.u. if water in the oil, reseal.... Replace impeller. Need to test operation with the l.u. submersed, as you need the back pressure (also related to the tuning). Time to retire the muffs.

 

[Watermann]

The air box may also have a hose that runs from the bottom of it to the powerhead as when you tilt the motor fuel will spill out of the carb throats unless you run her dry before hand. Without the 2 piece airbox being sealed or in place there will be a huge mess in no time of pre-mix inside the cowl.