'67 Evinrude Starflite 80 fuel delivery problem

[bass or bass ?]

My problem concerns a 1967 Evinrude Starflite 80 motor, model # 80793R, serial # E02829.I bought this boat/motor in 2007. Spent $2000 to have the powerhead overhauled. Carburator and fuel pump rebuilds were part of this work.It ran great the first 2 times on the water. Ever since then I keep having the same problems with it, it has been consistantly undependable.

First, it is very cold blooded to start. My mechanic has told me to use a squirt of starting fluid when cold starting. Sometimes it starts right up, sometimes takes several attempts. When starting, my mechanic also told me to manually choke carb, then after start to turn off choke. After starting, it seems to run fine with gear selector in neutral, from idle to higher speeds (RPM).
When I put motor in gear however (on the lake), and idle away from "no wake" area and attempt to gain speed, at open throttle, the engine boggs down and runs at low RPM, boat won't get up on plane. If I ride the bow or someone else does, or if I cross a wake just right, the motor picks up RPM and gradually picks up speed and the boat gets on plane and runs strong for a time, then starts to lose power and slow down, eventually slowing to "no wake" speed , even though the throttle is still at full position. Then the motor speed kind of surges like it is getting sporadic fuel surges.
I have two inline fuel filters, the clear glass type with cleanable filter elements,installed on fuel line, and the fuel LOOKS fine through the glass.I also always use Sta-Bil marine fuel treatment.
There is also a very strong gas or exhaust gas smell, quite overpowering this last weekend, that is disturbing.
I have had this boat/motor on the water @ 10 times and to the mechanic 3 times with still no improvement.I have been able to barely limp back to the boat ramp most times out, had to be towed once.
Do I have a carburator problem? Ignition problem? It seems to me to be fuel related. I don't have much boat motor experience, but have rebuilt my BSA motorcycle engine twice and have aftermarket Mikuni carbs on it , so I do know something about motors. My initial reaction is to pull the carb and check the float and needle valves, maybe high speed needles and seats as well? I haven't done this as yet because I paid to have this rebuilt by my mechanic.
I have new fuel lines on the motor, but have not replaced the fuel line (and primer bulb) from the tank to the motor. The primer bulb seems to work fine, but could this be a problem? My fuel tank is an old Tempo steel tank, very clean and rust free inside. I only use Chevron premium (91 octane) fuel, and Pennzoil Marine XLF 2 cycle oil.
HELP ME PLEASE! I'm terribly frustrated by this. I want to enjoy my boat, not be constantly worried about what will happen the next time out.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: '67 Evinrude Starflite 80 fuel delivery problem

Things you can do yourself..... and should.

Remove spark plugs. Check compression on all cylinders. What are those readings, by cylinder. Standing in back of engine, facing spark plugs, cylinders are numbered as:

2....1

4....3

With plugs still removed, check the spark. All cylinders should jump a 1/4" gap on that model with a strong blue lightning like flame.... a real SNAP! Does it?

No spark tester? Build one as follows:

(Spark Tester - Home Made)
(J. Reeves)

A spark tester can be made with a piece of 1x4 or 1x6, drive a few finishing nails through it, then bend the pointed ends at a right angle. You can then adjust the gap by simply twisting the nail(s). Solder a spark plug wire to one which you can connect to the spark plug boots, and a ground wire of some kind to the other to connect to the powerhead somewhere. Use small alligator clips on the other end of the wires to connect to ground and to the spark plug connector that exists inside of the rubber plug boot.

Using the above, one could easily build a spark tester whereas they could connect 2, 4, 6, or 8 cylinders all at one time. The ground nail being straight up, the others being bent, aimed at the ground nail. A typical 4 cylinder tester follows:


..........X1..........X2

.................X..(grd)

..........X3..........X4

Spark plugs should be Champion J6C plugs, gapped at .030 .

If that coil is the original bakelite type coil, and should it have any cracks in it, replace it.

The carburetor may be fouled, especially if it has been sitting for quite some time. There are two brass high speed jets located in the bottom center portion of the float chamber which are best cleaned with a piece of single strand steel wire. Fuel must flow thru those jets before gaining access to any other fuel passageway. The only cure for this type problem is to dismantle and clean that carburetor.

Starting fluid has no lubricating properties, don't use it. If you're going to spray anything thru that carburetor, have some premix fuel/oil in a spray container.

This may be helpful..........

(Carburetor Adjustments - Older V/4 Downdraft Carb)
(J. Reeves)

NOTE: The early model downdraft carburetors incorporated "Adjustable High Speed Jets". The later model downdraft carburetors used "Fixed High Speed Jets". Follow the below instructions accordingly.

NOTE: If you do not have adjustable high speed jets, ignore those paragraphs pertaining to same...... BUT do make sure that you manually inspect and clean the two brass fixed high speed jets which would be located in back of the two 7/16" slotted hex head bolts in the bottom front portion of the float chamber.

Lift the center High Speed Control lever and turn it so that the point faces forward, resting on the high ridge. This will disengage the lever control gear from the individual high speed jets (slots). Have the slow speed needle valve knobs installed upside down so that they can be turned without encountering any obstruction.

Gently seat each of the High Speed needle valves, then back each one out one (1) turn. Gently seat each of the Slow Speed needle valves, then back each one out one and one half (1-1/2) turns. NOTE... have the jam nut on the s/speed needles snug so that vibration won't have any effect on them, but loose enough so that you can turn them without a great amount of effort.

(High Speed)
With a reliable person at the wheel, and one kneeling in front of the engine, start the engine (yes, it will run lousy with the above initial needle valve settings), put it into forward gear, and apply full throttle. Start with the High Speed adjustment on the left using a screwdriver that properly fits the slot.

(High Speed Adjustments)
At full throttle, with the proper size screwdriver, slowly start turning one of the H/S needles in segments of 1/8 turn, waiting momentarily for the engine to respond, then repeat turning. You will reach a point where the engine will start to die out. At that point, back that needle valve out approximately 1/4 turn. Now, go to the other High Speed needle valve and repeat that procedure. At some point in that 1/4 turn out, you will find the smoothest high speed setting (you can now lower the throttle rpm). That will have both high speed needle valves set correctly, and at that point you can lift that center lever adjustment of that high ridge, keeping it lifted until the point is facing the engine, then lower it into its proper position. (When you turn that lever now, you're adjusting both High Speed needle valves at the same time.)

(Slow Speed Adjustments)
Now, lowering the rpms of course, take the engine out of gear and set the throttle just to where the engine will stay running. Again, in segments of 1/8 turn, slowly start turning in one of the slow speed needle valves, waiting a few seconds between each turning for the engine to respond. As you turn the s/speed needles in, the rpms will increase..... and as it does, lower the rpms to where the engine will just stay running (otherwise the rpms will climb quite high). You will reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back the needle valve out 1/4 turn. Repeat the process with the remaining slow speed needle. Again, at some point in that 1/4 turn out, you will find the smoothest setting. When finished, tighten the jam nut somewhat, then remove and reinstall the s/speed knobs correctly (right side up).

That model has an electric choke. If it doesn't operate, then yes, you would need to close the choke to start the engine. As soon as it fires, key off, open choke, restart engine. Let us know what you find, especially with the compression and spark test.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: '67 Evinrude Starflite 80 fuel delivery problem

Neglected to mention...... With the points set on the high lobe, set them so a .020 gauge will pass thru but a .022 will not.

Also, that engine incorporates all needle, roller, and ball bears on all of its moving parts (crankshaft, con rod to c/shaft, wrist pins, main bearings) and as such, you may with full confidence use the 50/1 fuel/oil mixture, 1 pint of TCW-III 50/1 oil to 6 gallons of gasoline. A octane rating of 87 will be fine, anything above 87 octane provides NO performance improvement.

There is a power propeller for that model engine. When installed, the rig acts like you have twin engines...... much get up and go with very little loss of power/speed on the top end (not enough to notice). Propeller part #379260, 10"x9-1/4" (diameter/pitch).

 

[bass or bass ?]

Re: '67 Evinrude Starflite 80 fuel delivery problem

Thanks Joe, I will do a compression and spark check this week, and check high speed jets and adjust low speed jets. I'll post the test results when I do them.
The propeller that you refered to;I found it on e-bay. Do I need any other parts to switch out my propeller for this one?
Thanks so much.
Allen

 

[coolguy147]

Re: '67 Evinrude Starflite 80 fuel delivery problem

i might also add that we suggust to replace the water impeller if not done so recently. gear oil for water. then key components compression spark

 

[R.Johnson]

Re: '67 Evinrude Starflite 80 fuel delivery problem

$2000 in a 1967 engine, and the mechanic suggest's starting fluid. Why is there a question about a clean carb? Where did he get new piston's for this engine? Better yet? Where in the hell did you get him?

 

[bass or bass ?]

Re: '67 Evinrude Starflite 80 fuel delivery problem

Hi r Johnson. The heads were r&r and decarboned. Pistons were not replaced, just decarboned and new rings.Heads also got helicoils at this time. Cost for this: $330. Other work done then included; rebuild carb and fuel pump:$440, Tuneup, points, condensor, plugs:$220repair stator leads:$110.That was labor only. The parts for above work totaled$525.07 Work was performed by Gene Walentiny at Valley Marine in Glendale Arizona. No other shops near here would even look at this motor. I know he's not inexpensive, but he's all I can find to work on this motor.

 

[bass or bass ?]

Re: '67 Evinrude Starflite 80 fuel delivery problem

Hi coolguy147, how does the water impeller enter into this equation?

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: '67 Evinrude Starflite 80 fuel delivery problem

The propeller has a smaller diameter hub. This necessitates a different (smaller) diameter prop nut, cotter pin and drive pin.

Prop Nut - 309947
Cotter pin - 309955
Drive Pin - 309954

 

[Evinrude Boater]

Re: '67 Evinrude Starflite 80 fuel delivery problem

The propeller has a smaller diameter hub. This necessitates a different (smaller) diameter prop nut, cotter pin and drive pin.

Prop Nut - 309947
Cotter pin - 309955
Drive Pin - 309954

Joe, is there a washer too with that prop?

Bass, I agree with everything Joe has suggested. With his help my Speedifour starts with one pull of the recoil starter when necessary. The spark plugs can sometimes tell you what's going on with your engine. Make note of their condition when you remove them. Are they tan or black? Are they wet, dry or are some dry and some wet? Is one side different from the other? To me it seems you have fuel delivery problems if it idles properly and bogs on acceleration. Especially since it worked well the first two times out. When you accelerate you're introducing more air and if there isn't sufficient fuel to match the air, it will stumble.
I removed a loose piece of crud from one of my high speed jets. Sometimes it worked well and other times it was as you describe. Joe described how to clean them. Remove the 7/16 bolts that cover them, remove the jets and look inside the jet and the carb body. A piece of something might be floating around in there or may be stuck in the jet orifice.
I prime my motor before starting cold by spraying 4-5 squirts of pre-mixed fuel down each carb throat then close the choke and pull up the warm up lever. Like I said, one pull or a touch of the key and it starts immdeiately.
Again, as Joe describes, setting up the slow speed screws is essential to fine tuning the carb. It should run acceptably prior to that tuning and afterwards it should take off (as FR would say) like a scalded dog. Search "Speedifour" on YouTube and you can watch my videos.
Checking your water pump impeller and gear case oil is worthwhile regular maintenance but won't help with your problem at hand.

 

[Evinrude Boater]

Re: '67 Evinrude Starflite 80 fuel delivery problem

And one more thought is the carb link & sync. Since the engine was disassembled and the carb removed, the linkage would have to be adjusted and synchronized to perform properly at high speed. Better get a manual for that procedure.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: '67 Evinrude Starflite 80 fuel delivery problem

Prop washer = 304576 is the same for all of the various propellers.

 

[coolguy147]

Re: '67 Evinrude Starflite 80 fuel delivery problem

Hi coolguy147, how does the water impeller enter into this equation?

hey dont get smart with me. this is a volunteer website. i was suggesting cause even still u didnt list u didnt any service on the lower unit. which is also very important too. since u said u repaired it in 2007 it seems like it might be time to change it out soon too if u got it 2007. if u wanna be smart then dont expect things from me. reason i said that cause if u over heat ur motor dont be crying to us on what to do. how u like a 14 year old being smart to u?

how do u spend 2k on that basically worth the boat no hard feelings

 

[jonesg]

Re: '67 Evinrude Starflite 80 fuel delivery problem

It juz don't pay to have techs work on these older engines, but they can be made to run like a top with a bit of DIY for cheap money.
A few tools, the factory service book and help from the experts here, theres no excuse after that.

 

[coolguy147]

Re: '67 Evinrude Starflite 80 fuel delivery problem

It juz don't pay to have techs work on these older engines, but they can be made to run like a top with a bit of DIY for cheap money.
A few tools, the factory service book and help from the experts here, theres no excuse after that.

agreee ^