'67 johnson 100 hp v4tl13

[rbyeab]

I tried to grease the lower unit on this. I opened the screw hole to apply the grease. Dont all motors have a second opening so that the grease will have someplace to exit when full? It made me wonder if I have greased the wrong place, or this opening wasnt meant for grease.

 

[Laddies]

Re: '67 johnson 100 hp v4tl13

You have one screw on skag and one above the cavitation plate, fill from the bottom to the top

 

[Droll]

Re: '67 johnson 100 hp v4tl13

Do NOT apply grease on the lower unit .<br /><br />What kind of lower unit does this engine have ?? , If it is a electric lower unit ( This one have ?? ) use only " type C " or Bombardier (OMC ) premium blend .<br /><br />First drain the lower unit for oil , remove upper/lower screws .<br />When filling oil , fill from the lower hole until the oil comes out on the top screw , hold pressure , insert upper screw , then the lower screw ( use NEW gaskets ).<br /> <br /><br />Where to find the screws !<br /><br />Lower screw > under the housing .<br />Upper screw > just below the lower unit bolts .<br /><br />Picture of an 1964 90hp , but I believe they are located on the same place

 

[rbyeab]

Re: '67 johnson 100 hp v4tl13

I am not quite sure what you mean by an electric unit? I will have to check to find the lower screw on the skeg. I must have filled this from the top with grease. What do I do now?

 

[Solittle]

Re: '67 johnson 100 hp v4tl13

yeabs - Some of the older motors have an electrically controlled method of shifting that requires a compatible gear oil.<br /><br />As to what to do now - How much grease did you pump into the upper screw?

 

[rbyeab]

Re: '67 johnson 100 hp v4tl13

I pumped about a half a tube of grease into it. Will I need to disasseble the lower unit to clean it out? I ordered the maintenance manual for this one yesterday so hopefully I wont make any more mistakes with this.

 

[R.Johnson]

Re: '67 johnson 100 hp v4tl13

My concern here would be that the grease may cause the the gear hub, and gear spring to slip. My exsperience has been that once they slip, they will no longer hold. That gearcase has two electro magnets for forward, and reverse. The magnet attracts a spring that is wound in square section, and wrap's around the hub of the gear. The more force put on the gear, the tighter it grips. I have never had to deal with a problem like this, so this is just a suggestion. I would fill the gearcase with kerosene, or fuel oil. Run the engine on a hose in neutral, think of a 100 HP blender here. The mixture here should then run out. You may have to do this a couple of times depending on what the mixture looks like. I know that kerosene, or fuel oil would make a poor lubricant, but you are putting no strain on the gear train, or bearings. Looking at you engine from the back, and on the left side of the gearcase. Above the cavitation plate ther is an oblong plate about 2-1/2 inch's long, and about an inch wide. Use this plate as a template, and cut out a piece just like it out of sheet metal. Drill a 1/2 in. hole in the center, and soft solder on a female garden hose connector. I have made several of these over the year's, and it work's very well. Hopefully! some of the other guy's may have other suggestions. The oil to use is type C gear oil.

 

[rbyeab]

Re: '67 johnson 100 hp v4tl13

I found that little devil of a lower screw hole. That was difficult to find until I knew where to look. The kerosene option sounds like something I could do, but is a bit scary. Since I put the grease in the upper hole, I am not sure I can get the kerosene to flow in. If I did this would I need to flush the kerosene first, or put in the oil, run it for a little while, drain and refill?<br /><br />Wait are you recommending that I fill the unit from the oblong plate you mention above the cavitation plate? I found that one. It was held on with two screws and had a gasket. <br /><br />Also to run the motor on a hose, I have rigged up a section of bicycle tube and clamped it to a garden hose. I stretch this over the snout with the screen on it just below the cavitation plate. Is this correct?<br /><br />One more question. Is this snout assembly movable? I am having trouble with this motor being affected by torque. Can I move this snout to counteract it? Sorry for the long list of questions. But do appreciate the help.

 

[OBJ]

Re: '67 johnson 100 hp v4tl13

RJ was describing a way to run the engine on a garden hose. That little oblong plate is also a water intake. If your method of running on a garden hose works and is keeping the water pump full, then use it.<br /><br />The "snout" as you call it is movable to some degrees. Losen the attachment screws and move the snout in the direction of torque....this would be as you are looking at the back of the engine.

 

[R.Johnson]

Re: '67 johnson 100 hp v4tl13

Mechanic's who do this on a regular basis use a pressurized can, You fill from the bottom hole till it comes out the top. The can they use look's just like a lawn & garden weed sprayer with a special tip. I'm sure if you took your gearcase to a shop, there method would be to take the gearcase apart for cleaning. Since your gearcase hold's quite a lot of oil, filling with a squeeze bottle would be difficult.Do you have anything available that might work. Making that flushing attachment just requires a propane torch, and a roll of solder.