68 Evinrude 55 won't start, trouble shooting tips

[Dennyps]

55 horse 3 cylinder, 2 cycle. Model #55873R. Man, I wished my manual would come in the mail] First question should the pump pull gas, if I am just turning over the engine, but the engine dosen't start? Next, do I even have the fuel lines hooked up right? On the motor I have a inlet/outlet? with four holes and a I/O with that appears to not have any holes which matches the one on the fuel tank and that is how I got it hooked up. On the tank I have a I/O with four holes and a small plunger on the tip and an I/O that appears to have no holes. How can I trouble shoot the fuel system starting at the tank and how does this system actually work? I tried it both ways to see if the pump wanted to pull some gas to the motor while turning her over and nothing, no gas to the motor via the fuel lines. From experience with four strokes the motor acted fuel starved. I put about an ounce in each cylinder with each try turning it over, in my experience I should have gotten the motor to run if only for a few seconds, by bypassing the carbs, right? I even put fuel in and waited to make sure I was not flooding the motor and still she would not start. I pulled a plug and I am definately getting strong spark. Some one mentioned I can't remember where in iboats that this motor had a set of points, even though the motor is electronic ignition anyone know anything about this? If so where are they and what are the tolarences for the points? Still I appear to be getting good spark, so how can I check the timing on this electronic ignition? Anyways she started to jump to life, but really only "started to" and never made it over the top to actually running. A couple of tries I noticed I actually had what appeared to be exaust, so I think she was trying hard. At this point I feel blind without the manual {which is on the way} so can anyone help with this? Thanks in advance, Denny

 

[alcan]

Re: 68 Evinrude 55 won't start, trouble shooting tips

Hi Denny<br />Did you by a new tank and fuel hose? Your motor uses a single hose from tank to motor. The connectors have two holes, one for fuel, one for a latch. to latch to tank and motor. You should also have a primer bulb in the line, with a arrow on it indecating direction of flow. You need to prime the fuel system via bulb prior to starting.You must also have your tank vented. Then your fuel pump should draw fuel from tank. You need to have your throtle set in the proper position for starting. This will set timing for easiest starting. Your motor uses two sets of points, these points act as triggers for your CD ignit. They are located under the fly wheel. Remove fly wheel,remove dist.cap,rotor. My advice would be, don,t mess with ignit till you get your manual and fully understand what you have.As long as you have spark you should be able to test fire. Did you remove your three carbs and clean them? Don't forget to make sure your choke is working properly. Was that your motor I saw with the dirt all over it? Was it burried? Looks like something I'd drag home. Anyway sounds like your getting close to hearing it run. Be carefull with the ignition parts they are spendy. If I recall a rotor cap costs about $85. Good luck, make smoke

 

[Dennyps]

Re: 68 Evinrude 55 won't start, trouble shooting tips

Hey Alcan, no I didn't get a new tank I was trying to use the one that came with the boat, but I did get new fuel lines and there is no "primer bulb" in the line between the tank and motor. So on the motor/tank itself there are what appear to be two petcocks {but as you say only one on each have holes like a petcock} and you say one is the fuel line and the other is a latch. When you say latch, do you mean to hook or secure the tank to the motor? Priming the system makes a lot of sense I will look into adding a primer ball to my system here. My tank is vented and it works properly I tested it while cleaning out the tank with fresh new gas. On my boat I can only start it in the "start position" So a ? moving the "throttle level" also advances the timing Alcan? So doe's that mean you don't ever have to time these motors? I will take your word on the ignition system and leave it alone for now and until my book comes. I did not remove the carb's but I will now. Actually when I got my motor the external or casing has been repainted and it's obvious that this motor has seen some years and use but overall once you remove the cowling it is extremely clean inside. I did the test schematic suggested on the tranny switch "tranny post" and when I first opened up the cowling the green wire from the leg/tranny was loose. The test results were that I could only get power to the dk blue wire and not the green so I evidently hooked the green up to the wrong hole or harness if you will. Anyway's I will track the green wire back to the ignition/tranny switch and mate that with the green from the leg and make sure at least that is hooked up right. Signed frustrated new boat owner. Thanks Alcan, you a little light In my day. Denny