69 Johnson Hydro-Elect shift

papion007

Cadet
Joined
Feb 28, 2006
Messages
17
I have a problem..I replaced the vaccume switch on my 69 55 hp because it was cracked and would not shift out of forward nor into neutral.But after the replacment it will go into neutral but with the shif lever in reverse.The solinoids check o.k. and the shift switch also.Can anyone please tell me what I did wrong..??<br /> <br /> MANY MANY THANKS
 

papion007

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Joined
Feb 28, 2006
Messages
17
Re: 69 Johnson Hydro-Elect shift

Can anyone tell me why No one wants to answer my this post.
 

Joe Reeves

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
Re: 69 Johnson Hydro-Elect shift

I've no idea what you may have done wrong, possibly nothing. Anything mechanical, electrical, or hydraulic, can and will go wrong eventually all by itself.... and that system is all three.<br /><br />You can trouble shoot the system by studying the explanation of the shifting setup below. As to why nobody wants to answer your post..... sometimes members just have to wait until we wake up from our nap (grin).<br /><br />(Hydro Electric Shift)<br />(J. Reeves)<br /><br />The shifting setup of the lower unit is what's called a "Hydro Electric Shift", which is quite complex consisting of voltage being applied to solenoids in the lower unit which in turn change oil passages via a oil pump that supplies various pressure on a spring loaded shifter dog. The wires leading to the lower unit (at the powerhead) are "Green" and "Blue". The engine must be running or cranking over in order to shift out of forward gear.<br /> <br />You CAN NOT use HI VIS lube in that lower unit. You MUST USE what OMC calls "Preminum Blend" lube, commonly called "Type C". (A thinner lube) <br /><br />In neutral, you need 12v to the "Green" wire. <br />In reverse, you need 12v to both wires, the "Green" one and the "Blue" one. <br />In forward, there should be no voltage to either wire. (The spring loaded shifter dog forces the unit into forward gear) <br /><br />To check the lower unit for proper shifting to make sure you have no trouble there, remove the spark plugs to avoid problems and to allow a higher cranking speed. <br /><br />This next step eliminates the actual shift switch in case problems may exist there.... Disconnect the blue & green wires at the knife connectors (the rubber insulated boots) leading to the lower unit at the powerhead, then using jumpers, take voltage direct from the starter solenoid to apply voltage to the "Green" wire for neutral, then both wires 'Green" & "Blue" for reverse (Remember the engine must be cranking over in order to shift).<br /> <br />With no voltage applied, the unit should be in forward. No need for a ground jumper... the lower unit's already grounded. You may crank the engine with the key switch or by energizing the starter solenoid with a jumper wire.
 

PierBridge

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 3, 2004
Messages
625
Re: 69 Johnson Hydro-Elect shift

How's that for an answer.......thanks Joe.
 

tashasdaddy

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
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Nov 11, 2005
Messages
51,019
Re: 69 Johnson Hydro-Elect shift

pap, the # 1 johnny/rude outboard shop in NE Fla, won't even consider working on the electric shift motor anymore. there are not many mechs, or parts around for them anymore.
 

papion007

Cadet
Joined
Feb 28, 2006
Messages
17
Re: 69 Johnson Hydro-Elect shift

Many Thanks to ya'll and especially JR.The answer JR gave was what I tried two weeks ago.<br /> I haven't got a lot of money it the engine,is it really worth working on.I do now thanks to JR and the rest have forward and neutral.I guess if I stay out of coves I wont need reverse.<br /> JR is it o.k. to send ya e-mail to ask a few questions..??If not THANKS A BUNCH for ya help.<br /> papion007@aol.com
 
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