Got issues with my outboard, and the wounds may be self inflicted. Tried to do the repair below but never successfully got 12V to the powerpack. Instead I have a motor that won't crank(It was starting before the repair). My battery is in good shape and I can get 12V testing that.
Work I was doing when it happened (My voltage was weak to the powerpack):
(Voltage Drop To Battery Capacitance Discharge)
( Pulsepack When Electric Starter Is Engaged)
(J. Reeves)
On the older Battery Capacitance Discharge ignition systems (1968-1972), the electric starter reaches a point, even with a top notch battery, whereas the starter will draw excess voltage/current/whatever which results in a voltage drop to the pulsepack. The cure is to purchase a diode which is capable of handling 12 volts and installing it between the starter terminal of the starter solenoid (NOT the battery cable terminal) and the wiring terminal that supplies voltage to the pulsepack.
The diode must be installed so that the current flows from the starter terminal of the solenoid to the pulsepack... NOT vice versa. When that diode is installed in this manner, when the key is turned to the start position, the voltage that is applied to the starter is also applied directly to the pulsepack via the diode effectively eliminating the voltage drop and energerizing the pulsepack with the required voltage needed for its proper operation.
Not sure if what I was doing caused this but now I don’t get any voltage past my solenoid. Hopefully I just blew a fuse or something. Would anyone know if there would be a fuse to check along the wiring harness? And where it would be approx?
Last question: My starter solenoid has 4 terminals. One goes to the starter, one goes to the battery, one goes to ground, and one goes to the key switch. Anyone have a guess on which of those terminals I should be connecting my wire too?
Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!
Work I was doing when it happened (My voltage was weak to the powerpack):
(Voltage Drop To Battery Capacitance Discharge)
( Pulsepack When Electric Starter Is Engaged)
(J. Reeves)
On the older Battery Capacitance Discharge ignition systems (1968-1972), the electric starter reaches a point, even with a top notch battery, whereas the starter will draw excess voltage/current/whatever which results in a voltage drop to the pulsepack. The cure is to purchase a diode which is capable of handling 12 volts and installing it between the starter terminal of the starter solenoid (NOT the battery cable terminal) and the wiring terminal that supplies voltage to the pulsepack.
The diode must be installed so that the current flows from the starter terminal of the solenoid to the pulsepack... NOT vice versa. When that diode is installed in this manner, when the key is turned to the start position, the voltage that is applied to the starter is also applied directly to the pulsepack via the diode effectively eliminating the voltage drop and energerizing the pulsepack with the required voltage needed for its proper operation.
Not sure if what I was doing caused this but now I don’t get any voltage past my solenoid. Hopefully I just blew a fuse or something. Would anyone know if there would be a fuse to check along the wiring harness? And where it would be approx?
Last question: My starter solenoid has 4 terminals. One goes to the starter, one goes to the battery, one goes to ground, and one goes to the key switch. Anyone have a guess on which of those terminals I should be connecting my wire too?
Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!