72 Evinrude 40hp 40253e Wiring

carpking

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Please note, before starting this thread, I checked the sticky labeled wiring diagrams, but the link provided no info for this year motor. This is an electric/pull start tiller engine. Previous owner had a remote start panel in his boat. When he got ready to sell he just cut the harness. I want to retrofit it with a simple on noard push button start and kill switch but I have little experience with electric start outboards. Im just looking for a diagram that can explain what each of the wires in the harness were used for or a diagram showing how to do it from scratch. I can't even check for spark because I don't know which wires were to the kill switch. Help...
 

carpking

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Cycled through those and none match. I have figured out my starter wires but I'm getting no spark. Realize it could be the points but I want to find/eliminate kill switch wiring. I have traced the two wires that lead to stator wiring. Is the switch simply wired between those two wires as in one wire on one terminal and the other on the other side? Using a toggle switch, should it be normally close or "on"; or normally open or "off" in order to start and run? I have a total of five wires in the harness which are badly faded. I haven't found where the fifth wire leads to yet. Two starter wires, two stator wires, and mystery wire. Thanks for any help.
 

carpking

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Found fifth wire. It goes to cutout switch and in parts diagram, is referred to as "safety" wire. Where/how does this wire need to be hooked up at? Never dealt with cutout switches before.
 

hardwater fisherman

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It connects one of your points to the cutout switch. It will kill spark to one cylinder if your motor goes into a runaway situation.
 

carpking

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Ok, makes sense and could be my problem. I have great spark on top cylinder and nothing on bottom cylinder. I have three wires on center of cutout switch. One is going to stator as you stated. Another is going to a terminal on selinoid. The last wire is travelling with the harness out of the engine. Why would this wire be needed or where would it have hooked up in a remote start situation? I also have a wire going from ground on cutout switch up to neutral switch that looks in bad shape..but it shouldn't affect spark...should it?
 

F_R

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OK, I have the diagram in front of me. One black wire goes from the magneto armature plate to the ignition switch. Another black wire from the armature plate to the center terminal on the vacuum cut-out switch. Another black wire goes also from the center terminal, forward to the ignition switch. Those two black wires are the "kill" circuit. There should not be any third wire on the center of the vacuum switch.

A white wire from the ignition switch goes back to one of the small posts on the start solenoid. Another white wire runs between the other small post on the solenoid and the corner of the vacuum cut-out switch. A third white wire from that same corner goes to the safety switch under the armature plate. Choke circuit is purple wire from choke switch to choke solenoid. Choke switch if fed by a red wire from battery side of start solenoid. Red wire also supplies power to the ignition switch for the start circuit (white wires).

Hope this is clear.
 

carpking

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It would be nice to see that diagram. So to be clear, there should be no wire between center of cutout switch to solenoid? Instead, solenoid wire should go to the same post on cutout switch as neutral safety switch, correct? Does it matter which side of ignition of the ignition switch the cutout wire goes? Also, my ignition circuit has a white wire on one side and a red wire on the other side. White wire is going to solenoid. Haven't figured out where red goes, but these two wires activate the starter when I bump them together. I assume the black wire from cutout switch ties into either the red or white ignition wire, right?
 

F_R

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1. Black wire at center of cut-out goes to set of breaker points that fire the lower cylinder.
2. Another black wire at center of cut-out goes forward to the ignition switch "M" terminal.
3. Black wire from other set of breaker points also goes forward to the other "M" terminal on ignition switch (may be marked "G" on a new switch).

1, 2, & 3 are the kill wires.

4. Red wire from battery cable side of start solenoid goes forward to ignition switch "BAT" terminal.
5. White wire from one small post on start solenoid goes forward to ignition switch "S" terminal.
6. White wire from other small post on start solenoid goes to corner of vacuum cut-out switch.
7. Another white wire from same corner of vacuum cut-out goes to safety switch below the armature plate.

4, 5. 6, & 7 are the start circuitl

8. Blue wire goes from ignition switch "A" terminal to choke switch
9. Blue/white stripe wire goes from choke switch to choke solenoid

8 & 9 are the choke circuit.

NEITHER of the black wires at the ignition switch go to anything in the start or choke circuit. To do so will explode one of the magneto coils!!!! Likewise, you MUST NOT connect any accessories (like lights) to the ignition switch.

Got it??
 
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carpking

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1. Black wire at center of cut-out goes to set of breaker points that fire the lower cylinder.
2. Another black wire at center of cut-out goes forward to the ignition switch "M" terminal.
3. Black wire from other set of breaker points also goes forward to the other "M" terminal on ignition switch (may be marked "G" on a new switch).

1, 2, & 3 are the kill wires.

4. Red wire from battery cable side of start solenoid goes forward to ignition switch "BAT" terminal.
5. White wire from one small post on start solenoid goes forward to ignition switch "S" terminal.
6. White wire from other small post on start solenoid goes to corner of vacuum cut-out switch.
7. Another white wire from same corner of vacuum cut-out goes to safety switch below the armature plate.

4, 5. 6, & 7 are the start circuitl

This is all I am concerned with. However, I am not wiring a keyed ignition switch. I am wanting to wire a simple push button start that has only two terminals and a toggle kill switch which only has two terminals. Everything you have listed in "kill circuit" matches mine. How would I wire my toggle "kill switch" with said wiring?

Start Circuit: My wiring is a little off here. Red wire is correct going out to ignition. I do have a white wire from small post on solenoid travelling out to ignition. However, the other small post solenoid wire is going to center of cutout switch instead of corner. The only wire I have on corner of cutout switch is going to safety switch. Assuming I correct the solenoid wire by moving it to corner of cutout switch, do I simply wire my push button start with red on one side and white on the other? Sorry to be such a hassle. lol
 

F_R

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Kill switch, push button, or toggle, or whatever, doesn't matter what type. It still connects the two black "M" wires together to stop the motor.

Yes. put the white wire where it belongs. And yes, the ignition switch (or push button if you desire) connects the red wire to the white wire to activate the start solenoid.

BTW, that white wire on the center terminal is feeding voltage to the magneto coil when you attempt to start. Not good.
 

carpking

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Kill switch circuit. I have two wires, one from each set of points, and third wire from center of cutout switch. Total of three wires. Black #1 from points, Black #2 from center of cutout, and brown/green from other set of points. These are all harness wires travelling outside of engine. I guess this is why I am so confused on wiring kill switch. I can put black wires on either side of toggle. But where does the third Brown/green points wire need to go?
 

F_R

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If you are confused, how do you think I feel? I have no clue what brown/green wire you are talking about. Neither does the factory service manual. But I do know how the system works, having worked in a dealer service shop for 24 years.

One last time, there is a wire from each set of points. One goes forward to the kill switch. Other goes to the center of the vacuum switch. And another wire from the center of the vacuum switch goes forward to the other side of your kill switch. I don't care if they are purple greenish with pink stripes, that is how it goes. How much plainer can I make it..
 

F_R

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Um....I think I might have figured out what brown wire you are talking about. A thicker wire than the others, right? If I am correct, you are looking at the wire for the ammeter when an accessory generator kit is installed. If you have no generator kit, that wire is not used, not connected at either end.

Maybe this will end the confusion.
 

carpking

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Deeply apologize. I went back and retraced everything and I did make a mistake. The brown/green wire is the wire going to choke. It may not have been Brown/green in 1972 but that is what color it appears to be.

So, now this is where I am. I have my two kill switch wires and I have my two starter wires. Last question...using my two terminal push button start, where do I need to hook up choke wire. Again, I apologize for the frustration and I do deeply appreciate the help. All other wiring has been in proper position.
 

F_R

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Choke wire goes to one terminal on choke switch,, a jumper wire goes between the other terminal on choke switch and the red wire on the starter switch. (Yes there will be two red wires on that start terminal.)
 

carpking

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"
8. Blue wire goes from ignition switch "A" terminal to choke switch
9. Blue/white stripe wire goes from choke switch to choke solenoid"

Referring to number 8. I don't have an ignition terminal A because I don't have a key switch. Does choke wire just tie into red or white wire on my push button? Choke side is already hoojed up like you said. Ignition side is what im trying to get clear
 

F_R

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Choke wire goes to one terminal on choke switch,, a jumper wire goes between the other terminal on choke switch and the red wire on the starter switch. (Yes there will be two red wires on that start terminal.)

I just said that it connects to the red wire on the start switch. I don't care if it is an ignition switch or a push button or a mouse trap----there is a red wire supplying battery power to the switches.
 

carpking

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It seems to me that would put the choke in the "always on" position on a motor with no generator. Is the choke required to have battery power after starting? Again, first experience with an electric start and especially electric choke outboard. Even with the engine off, the choke solenoid would still be draining battery power on the hot side of the switch...unless I'm missing something.
 

F_R

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Are you messing with me? I'm trying real hard to have patience here, but it won't hold much longer. The red wire comes from the battery and has 12V at all times. You connect your choke switch to it to get your 12V supply. The other side of the choke switch goes to the choke solenoid. The 12V only goes through the choke switch while you have the button pushed.

What's the generator got to do with anything anyhow? Never mind, I'm out.
 
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