'75 Chrysler 25hp gear case questions with pics

[Phishnvdub]

Hi everyone, I am new here and to boating in general. I have a '75 Chrysler 25hp 255HA on a 1964 Starcraft runabout. A few weeks ago I went to move the boat in my driveway and forgot to raise the outboard, I know stupid newb move. Well my driveway is not level and I dug the skeg into the dirt a little. Scratched the skeg a bit and barely dinged two of the blades on the prop. Fixed prop with a small file and fine sandpaper, not even noticeable now. That same day I changed the gear oil also because it was leaking out the vent screw after tilting the motor to transport. Turns out last owner never put the washer back on that screw.
Not sure if it's just coincidence, but after that weekend I can't get reverse to engage and now fluid is leaking out of the propshaft seal between the metal outer ring of seal and bearing carrier. I am hoping the reverse is just an adjustment in the coupler behind the motor leg cover I have read about on here. It used to grind a litttle going into reverse, so thinking the adjustment is not centered. Went today to take a better look at the seal leak. Took prop off, then weedguard retainer and guard. Then the retaining ring for the bearing carrier just fell to the ground. You can see in the pics that it looks like maybe the bearing carrier is supposed to be pushed into the casing more? Not sure what to do and hoping one of you guys could point me in the right direction. The seal is definitely shot. I can push on it and it moves, I would think it would be pretty tight more like a pressed in feel. Any info would be really appreciated, thanks guys.

 

[wickware]

Re: '75 Chrysler 25hp gear case questions with pics

I hope it will be a matter of you replacing the shaft?s seal and cage?s O-ring if you still have good threads for the cage?s bolts and seat for the snap ring. How about the internal threads for the cage?s bolts and seat for the snap ring, are they good? The coupling adjustment hopefully will get you in reverse w/o any damage.

Attached are pics of replacing the seal and o-ring on my 70 35 HP Chrysler (that was like a sudden leak vs slow). Good Luck!

 

[Nordin]

Re: '75 Chrysler 25hp gear case questions with pics

Wickware These LU are different, yours on the 35Hp has the bearingcage bolted to the gearhousing. On the 25Hp the cage is locked with the snapring.

Phishnvdub You must take a closer look at your lower unit. There should be a milled track in the lower gearhousing. The snapring will seat in that track to hold the bearingcage.
If the motor been in saltwater, the lower gearhousing could have corrode and the part that would hold the snapring (track) has fallen off.

 

[Phishnvdub]

Re: '75 Chrysler 25hp gear case questions with pics

Thanks for the reply guys. I don't think the motor was used in salt water. It's in really nice condition and there is no corrosion off any kind anywhere on it. Still has the original purchase sticker on the flywheel cover from 1975 with dealer and buyer's info on it. I don't think the cage is set far enough into the housing. Going to try to get it out tonight as the seal needs to be replaced anyway. I think I read in the Seloc online manual that if I thread two bolts into the two holes there and as they are tightened it's supposed to push the bearing cage out. Can anyone confirm that's the way I should go about removing it?

 

[wickware]

Re: '75 Chrysler 25hp gear case questions with pics

Phishnvdub & Nordin, Do you have a link to the L/U? I c/n find the snap ring in my Clymer?s diagram. Looking at the painted surface behind the snap ring, I felt the grove was just inside the L/U housing. BUT! There is paint on the snap ring like it was seated close to where it is showing in the Pic. Are you saying there could be a missing lip in front of the B/C? In the pic w/o the S/R, a grove might be showing. Plus, threads into the B/C like another retainer etc is not showing. Now! With the latest info, I can easily see the threaded holes using bolts to push the cage out. I'll ck my Clymer later if this is not confirmed.

I need to get outside and battle this North Tx heat vs these interesting ?Old Chrysler? issues that are fun to share on (and more interesting than my projects).

 

[Nordin]

Re: '75 Chrysler 25hp gear case questions with pics

Phishnvdub When I take a closer look at you pics I think the grove has fallen off. Looks like there are some aluminiumalloy on the snapring.
Hope I am wrong but???

Wickvare I don?t have a internetlink to that parts catalog. I have a factory parts catalog for 20Hp in paper (same lower unit as the 25Hp).
But now it is summervacation here in Skandinavia so if you send me a email later (about 3 weeks) when I am back to work, I can scan it and send you as a pdf.file.

 

[wickware]

Re: '75 Chrysler 25hp gear case questions with pics

Thanks Nordin! My plan was and is to cut back on my work and experimenting since an 03 retirement. Most projects/experiments vs needs are too old now and I need to relax more (per my body). LOL

 

[Phishnvdub]

Re: '75 Chrysler 25hp gear case questions with pics

Ok...Just inserted some three inch machine screws into the threads of the bearing cage and was able to push in on it. Looks like the recess is still there for the retaining ring. I guess it was just never seated properly. Going to order a new LU seal kit and see if I can get this squared away. Will let everyone know as things progress. One more quick question, is it normal to be able to push the prop shaft in about an inch or so and have it spring back out? Thanks again guys.

 

[wickware]

Re: '75 Chrysler 25hp gear case questions with pics

Are you saying the propeller will travel in and out approx an inch while pined to the shaft? I believe my end-play is approx 1/8 inch. IMO vs experience, once the cage is fully seated all the excess end-play will go away.

? I think I read in the Seloc online manual that if I thread two bolts into the two holes there and as they are tightened it's supposed to push the bearing cage out. Can anyone confirm that's the way I should go about removing it?? While looking in my Climer, I saw 2 long bolts used with a puller to remove the cage. I can still see bolts pushing it out depending what is behind the holes.

I?ll glance for your follow-ups. I glance for 35?55 HP Chrysler info almost daily.

 

[Phishnvdub]

Re: '75 Chrysler 25hp gear case questions with pics

Meant without the prop on, I can push the shaft in and it will spring back out. Not much play with the prop on. Going to order the seal kit today hopefully be fixed by the weekend. As far as the bolts pushing the cage out, I think with them in I am going to be able to pull it out by hand. Will take some pics of what they would push against on the other side though.

 

[wickware]

Re: '75 Chrysler 25hp gear case questions with pics

?Meant without the prop on, I can push the shaft in and it will spring back out. Not much play with the prop on.?

Not much play with the prop on sounds good. I tried to verify seeing a spring with the series of parts on the shaft to account for it springing back out. I c/n spot that diagram again in my quick search. IMO as spring could make sense in removing slack vs drive gears being spring loaded (unless it is a stiff spring to resist gears slipping).

Do you have a parts diagram link (it should show this spring and it?s purpose if I was looking at the correct model)? My Clymer shows a diagram representing 20-50 HP Chryslers (which is not the best). I have 2 others or copied section from older Clymers on Chryslers from the Library. Plus, I have a CD from online but no time to search them now. The others were harder to search than this 1966-1988 Clymer on Chrysler/Force but had better old info in come cases.

 

[Nordin]

Re: '75 Chrysler 25hp gear case questions with pics

The springtension comes from the spring that push the clutch back. You see the gearshift on these engines have a cam with three groves. Reveres-neutral-forward, each one have different groves with different deep. The cam push on a shiftpin when you push and pull the shiftlink up and down. The shiftpin goes in a drilled hole in the center of the propshaft. Behind the pin is the clutch witch is conneted to the pin with a stick. Behind the clutch and between the bottom of the drilled hole is the spring seated.

Hope you understand my description (I am not so good in english)

 

[Phishnvdub]

Re: '75 Chrysler 25hp gear case questions with pics

Ok, to answer the question I had about using a bolt in the threaded holes of the beaing carrier to push it out is False. You can see in the pic that the holes are not open on the inside. I am thinking there is prolly a tool that threads into them and aids in removing the carrier. I just used some longer bolts threaded in, gripped the bolts with some pump pliers and whacked the pliers to pop it out. Also got the seal kit in today. I ordered the Sierra one listed for my motor HP and year. Guess what...not one seal or O-ring in the kit fit my bearing carrier. Awesome!

 

[wickware]

Re: '75 Chrysler 25hp gear case questions with pics

1. As mention/shown in Clymer, a simple puller would push on the shaft and pull on the cage with long screws. I feel I was creative as you or a tip from Frank vs a puller (due to no real force from an O-Ring). I c/n see the pic but I know what you are sawing.

2. I got lucky and found the O-Ring and seal real close with mine on the counter to match. The business as many is closed and complete liquidated into a new business. That Is A Real Sad Issue In The USA To Day! Mom & Pop, Family and Major Businesses Are Gone.

3. I feel you can find your O-ring and Seal if you have a local Seal Co that will work with you over the counter w/o it being a marina (sizing to seal is the key).

 

[Nordin]

Re: '75 Chrysler 25hp gear case questions with pics

The o-ring and propseal are standard size, so go to a shop that sells that kind of stuff and they will help you. Otherwise try Franz at Franzmarine.com. He has everything that is avalible to Chrysler/Force engines. He is a little more expensive then internetstores, but very helpfull and serviceminded.
The holes in the cage are for pulling it out with longer bolts and a pullerplate at the end of the propshaft.

 

[Phishnvdub]

Update

Update

Here is the update guys and want to thank all who have replied, I appreciate the info and help. So after none of the seals in the kit fitting, I ordered the two parts separately here from Iboats again. The O-ring was perfect and the prop seal diameter was too small and did not fit.
Taking some advice from here I went to a local marina shop with the bearing carrier. They dealt with johnson & Evinrude. I went in started explaining what I was looking for. Before I could even finish the gentlemen says hold on a second and comes out from a back room with a small box of loose prop seal and told me to start playing. Found one that fit and was told no charge have a good day. I gave him my new seal that didn't fit to put into the box for someone else. Great guy!
Got everything back together yesterday and took my boat out. Looked at everything this morning and no more leak, and with everything pushed back in properly and that snap ring in place magically I have reverse again! I mush have jarred it all loose when I moved the boat with the motor down I guess.

 

[btroy]

Re: Update

Re: Update

for future reference here is the picture. And yes the snap ring retainer does sometimes break off.http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff277/btroy89/chrysler_20hp_lower_unit.jpg

The Sierra chart is wrong. There is no kit available for your motor and the parts in the kit do not apply to your motor. The upper and lower seal for the water pump #32 is $18.49 each, the shift shaft lower seal #29 is $9.95, the prop shaft seal #11 is $9.95 and the bearing cage seal #10 is $1.69.

They can be crossed referenced to a Mercury part catalog.

I did use 2 bolts and a piece of strap medal placed on the prop shaft to remove the bearing carrier.