'82 115hp Evinrude control box, Quick question

76starcraft115

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When taking this apart, Does anything fly out at you... Possibly a dumb question, but for those who have taken this apart, any comments? I'm doing this to access my accessory of my ignition switch to switch my tank sender on and radio...

Thanks for any input!
 

emdsapmgr

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Re: '82 115hp Evinrude control box, Quick question

I'd be reluctant to do that. The control box key switch is part of the engine wiring. The engine wiring has a 20 amp fuse to run that powerhead. If you tap into any of the wiring at the key switch, you will be adding unneccessary current load to that fuse. If that small fuse blows, the engine won't start. You would hate to turn on the bilge pump and have the engine fuse blow when you are out boating, but that is a likely scenario. You need to run a dedicated 12V fused line from the battery to a common buss under the dash, then tap off of that, fusing each accesssory. The only accessory that should run off that control box is a tach.
 

76starcraft115

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Re: '82 115hp Evinrude control box, Quick question

understandable... the main thing I want to connect draws less than an amp...
 

boobie

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Re: '82 115hp Evinrude control box, Quick question

Do what Emdsap says. All accesories should be run off of a seperate fuse block. The OMC manual will tell not to exceed 5 amps off the ign switch but that's pushing it. The more circuits you have divided and fused the better off you are. But, It's your boat,not mine.
 

76starcraft115

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Re: '82 115hp Evinrude control box, Quick question

Well, I figured it out, if anyone cared... have a single wire going out of the remote box that I have going to a solenoid, So when I start my engine, it clicks shut. the solenoid is to charge my front deep cycle battery, or maintain it... This is so I can keep them separate when I use my trolling motor and won't drain my starting battery.. The solenoid only draws .7 amps, (I put a clamp ammeter on it) So, Its functioning great!
 
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