82' evinrude 70hp carb rebuild help

Dennischaves

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Im about to remove the carbs from my 82' evinrude 70 hp for a cleaning and rebuild
this is my first time doing this so im going to be needing help
questions.....do i remove the welch plug or leave it on?
And the main jet on the bottom of the bowl
do i remove it to clean?
I read in a few places that people dont remove then with fear of breaking them
thanks
 

oldboat1

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I usually leave the main jets in place because they can be damaged if you don't have the proper removal tool. I'm a big believer in soaking tops and bottoms of the carbs, linkages attached (remove anything non-metal). Open up all seats and plugs, including the welch plug for the idle circuitry. I soak in lacquer thinner, then blow out all openings with carb cleaner. Use a piece of soft wire to make sure every opening gets some attention. Not a bad idea to have a parts diagram in front of you the first time to make sure you use all of the parts. Not rocket science, and can make a huge difference.
 

Dennischaves

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I got the carbs pulled off today
but i noticed one thing when i removed the air box
the butterflys were all open the primer selenoid seems to hold them open but it i push the primer selenoid shaft in the butterflys close but when i let the shaft go they all open and stay there
is something wrong here?
 

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Dennischaves

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Also do i remove the low speed needle and the core plug?
Is there adjustment on this needle?
(its the screw in the middle right above the butterfly)
 

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jbuote

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That looks more like an electric choke solenoid and not a primer...
Electric choke will close the Choke butterflies when activated.
Primer solenoid allows fuel from pump to enter cylinders bypassing carbs. (Don't think there are choke butterflies with a primer system, but I could be wrong..)

It looks like you have electric choke, and not a primer..

Not sure about your low speed. Instinct for me would be to take it out, but that looks like a fixed low speed jet.
Adjustable usually protrudes out the front, But I'm not a pro, so, I'd probably take the same advice as for the high speed jet for that one.

You do want to make sure the idle circuits are clean though..

My 2 cents... lol
 

racerone

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Your motor does NOT have low speed mixture adjustment.--It has fixed high speed and fixed low speed jets that are not adjustable.--Those are the choke plates operated by the choke solenoid..----Throttle butterfly are further in.-----What is your motor doing / not doing that leads you to take the carburetors apart ?-----Very little goes wrong with them.
 

Dennischaves

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The motor ran but sat for a few years
I just want to eliminate any problems down the road
i tore all 3 carbs down and left the jets in
your all right....it is very easy to do
i used my spray gun cleaning kit
that has a large assortment of brushes and needles
one thing i did notice......
2 pickup tubes had a hairline crack
(the larger outer tube,the smaller innertube was fine)
is this a problem?
should they be replaced?
thanks everyone for the help i couldnt do this alone!!!
 

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Dennischaves

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Does anyone know what that tube is called?
is it the emulsion tube? Iv been looking online to buy one but i cant find it
will that crack affect how the engine runs?
 

racerone

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I do not believe that is a replacement part.---Not available or listed !
 

Crosbyman

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the motor having no history of problems per say likely ran ok with the airline crack but... you have 2 options

1-
don't mess with it for now and run your engine to see ....if ok

2-
it looks like a brass tube and if problems creep up and it is the prime suspect, you could apply some solder paste and sweat some solder in the crack

jmho mind you since replacement parts seem unavailable.

rule one applies... don't fix it if it works
 

oldboat1

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tube looks like the nozzle that runs vertically into the top of most carbs -- would typically screw out using a bladed screwdriver, or gently counterclockwise with a vise grip. If it's a nozzle, and cracked, clean it in place. The boss gasket should fit at the bottom when the top and bottom is reassembled, but don't force the fit. The holes have to be cleaned -- soak and use a soft wire. Soak carb bottom and top, and run a soft wire into every opening. Finish with carb spray. Remove the domed plug at the top and clean underneath (replace plug with fresh one in your carb kit). Remove the plug at the top (face of the carb -- where a needle goes on earlier models), and soak and spray the orifice in there, leaving the jet in place. Carefully run a soft, small diameter wire through and finish with carb cleaner using the plastic nozzle.

As mentioned, the nozzle doesn't appear in a diagram for your carb. Perhaps your carbs were replaced or your motor model isn't what you think it is, but if it ran before it will run again. Make sure the choke linkage works properly -- should hold the flappers tightly closed when choke is activated.
 
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lmuss53

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If you mess with them and break something, you'll be looking for carbs. I would clean them, put them back together and see what it does.

If you find yourself looking for carbs, send me a PM, I have three off a 1976 70 hp, I'll sell them very reasonably.
 

Dennischaves

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I didn' feel comfortable rebuilding the carbs with the cracked tube....so I got out the old soldering gun and luckily it worked out pretty good
 

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Dennischaves

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Just finished getting the carbs put back together.
surprisingly the were very clean
but without taking them apart I didn't know
I was a little scared doing this but it was very easy
Thanks everyone who helped!
 

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Dennischaves

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This motor has been sleeping for about 9years
I did the impeller and completey rebuilt the carbs including removing all the Welch plugs
is there anything else I should do?
 

oldboat1

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Drain the lower unit oil and check it for water (milky color). If nothing found, replace the plug washers and refill the case.
 
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