classiccat
"Captain" + Starmada Splash Of The Year 2020
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2010
- Messages
- 3,412
Please bear with me as this is the 1st time using the Joe Reeve's WOT timing procedure and I'd appreciate your confirmation (and/or constructive criticism!) that I did it correctly!!!
The factory service manual calls for 30-degree maximum spark advance at WOT...so I should be getting 26 degree's using Joe's method.
The only timing light that I have is one that I inherited from my late grandfather which involves running the charge through a long, bare spring (YIKES!!
)...normally to a spark plug however Joe's method calls for a spark-tester with plugs removed.
Coil #2 was grounded with the white jumper wire.

I activated the solenoid using regular 2-pole switch.
The initial test resulted in a 28-degree MSA. First of all, I was pretty stoked that this 40 year old timing light still worked...and also that it was so close to what Joe predicted!!
I retarded the SA by 2 clockwise turns of the cam-stop.
Sure enough, the right-edge of the pointer hit 26 degrees (simulated/illustrated below).

This cam-stop adjustment resulted in my throttle being partially closed at WOT:

Therefore I adjusted the collar screw moving it a smidge towards the nylon block.

The throttle plate lays perfectly flat and there is no binding.

I then verified that the throttle still just starts to open when the cam-roller is positioned between the 2 marks on the cam.
The question is, did I do this correctly and is there anything that you would do differently?
Thanks in advance!
The factory service manual calls for 30-degree maximum spark advance at WOT...so I should be getting 26 degree's using Joe's method.
The only timing light that I have is one that I inherited from my late grandfather which involves running the charge through a long, bare spring (YIKES!!
Coil #2 was grounded with the white jumper wire.

I activated the solenoid using regular 2-pole switch.
The initial test resulted in a 28-degree MSA. First of all, I was pretty stoked that this 40 year old timing light still worked...and also that it was so close to what Joe predicted!!
I retarded the SA by 2 clockwise turns of the cam-stop.
Sure enough, the right-edge of the pointer hit 26 degrees (simulated/illustrated below).

This cam-stop adjustment resulted in my throttle being partially closed at WOT:

Therefore I adjusted the collar screw moving it a smidge towards the nylon block.

The throttle plate lays perfectly flat and there is no binding.

I then verified that the throttle still just starts to open when the cam-roller is positioned between the 2 marks on the cam.
The question is, did I do this correctly and is there anything that you would do differently?
Thanks in advance!