83 bayliner caprie. AO125 Volvo penta help!

[Mrabernathy]

83 bayliner caprie 4 cyl volvo penta question help!!!

Hey I just traded for a 1983 bayliner caprie with the 4 cylinder Volvo penta motor. The guy had it running in August but knew nothing about boat.... Well I got it and he changed all the plugs is all he did. I checked the compression in each cylinder, it's good. Each cylinder has great spark. The motor turns over like butter. But will not hit a lick at cranking. Even with shots of starter fluid. The carb is flooded badly and there is fuel puddles in the intake/ headers, under the carb when you take it off, I assume this is far too much fuel. The guy got the boat from another guy who has wired up an electric fuel pump, and not using the stock, attached to the side of the engine. I believe this electric fuel pump is pumping entirely too much gas, how ever even when it is constantly pumping as you turn the key on, it's only going into the carb as your move the throttle, so it may be okay. This is clearly why it's not running, should I go back to the stock fuel pump or keep the electric? And is this too much fuel beings it's puddles in the headers. And could the gas be bad? Is the electric fuel pump dangerous, I have herd. Help me lol thank you

 

[Mrabernathy]

Another question. So far all my gauges work, however in videos I see people starting the boat with a red light on near the key switch, what is this light? Mine is not on when I turn the key. Could this be my problem, it may just be burnt out,

 

[jerryjerry05]

Spark, compression, fuel you have all 3.
Are the plugs fouled out?

The e pump what's the pressure?
The OEM is 4-7# pump
If the carb is working right and the pump isn't too strong the needle valve should stop the fuel flow.

Excessive fuel and an electric pump can be a DANGEROUS problem.

If the pumps not a marine grade then remove it.

No start: The timing might be off??

The red light is for the tilt, when it's lit up that means the drive isn't all the way down.
It goes out when down.
Key on, try tilting the drive up and see if the light comes on.
It could be burned out??

Unless the switch isn't set right.
Or the pad on the end of the tilt rod is missing.

 

[Mrabernathy]

Ok thanks, I'll check the timing. I think that electric fuel pump may be okay the. It's prob the same 4-7 as the oem. But I will also check the gas it may be bad gas, another questions, I'm sure the engine has too much fuel in it already, how would I get it out? A shop vac through the carb inlit ?

 

[Mrabernathy]

okay my boat I just got would not start, got it from a guy, who had it running in August. Well after some investigation and help from you guys I've realized it had jumped time. So I took the coolest resovior off and water pump. Etc and got to the timing belt, got it back in time according to the notches and marks on all 3 pulleys. Got a new belt today gonna put it on, I cleaned all the sprockets they had mild build up on them. Here's my question!!!!! When I get my belt back on, a video I watched said fire the boat without re assembling it, and shut it right back off to make sure I'm in time, but it also said something about the distributer cap. If I have all of my 3 sprockets lined up in time where should the cap be in sinc to those? It may be fine, but I don't know if the guy before me has adjusted it. And question #2!!!!! Once I get all of that right and re assemble everything and get my coolest resovior back on and water pump and all, what kind of coolest does this boat take? And I noticed pure water came out of this other container attached to the coolent resivor when I pulled the small brass plug on the bottom. My question is what all fluids do I need to get back in the engine before I do a final engine start with it all reassembled.

 

[jerryjerry05]

NOOOOOOO
The shop vac has an electric motor and sucking up gas with an electric motor that makes sparks is like throwing lit matches in a puddle of gas.
Just let it dry or evaporate.