85 force starting problem

[donn94]

i think my floats are not right


they dont look like jerryjerry05 floats http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...boards/561599-1988-force-125-carb-float-issue

 

[donn94]

so i guess my question is can i fix them to work or get the white floats dont no if i can get it down to i believe its 13/32. And if you look real good the piece that hole the pin is on top of floats an not in middle

 

[pnwboat]

I wouldn't recommend getting rid of the brass floats. They almost never go bad unless you poke a hole in them. What "problem" are you trying to fix?

 

[donn94]

its hard to start an i read if the floats are not seated right that will happen from Jerry post it need to be down a little more. You see that gap from carb to float

 

[Jiggz]

It's hard to start in what sense? Are you following the three basic requirements for starting, i.e. prime, fast idle and choke? If yes, do the carbs look flooded? If yes, then maybe you are overchoking the system. Remember, as soon as it starts "coughing" (meaning one or two cylinder fires but not enough to start or run the motor) you will re-start without choking. Normally, it only take 1 or 2 times to choke before you start flooding the carbs.

 

[donn94]

I im following three basic. On muff work fine but when i got a load like when in water at the lake it dont. now if i pull it out the water an try it work. I thought it had something to with the floats i was following Jerry05 post from the link i postes. The crabs are not flooded. I just want it to crank under load without pulling it out the water. I rebuild carbs an fuel pump.

 

[Jiggz]

Have you tried starting it in the water with the cowling off? If it starts easy it could mean there is an exhaust leak preventing the engine from starting when under water. You can try doing this in the driveway by using a large trash can to submerge the LU water intake and exhaust snout under water, simulating being in the lake.

Now if you really think the problem is related to the floats, then you can always set the floats a little higher, meaning the needle doesn't close until the float is just above horizontal. The only set back on setting it like this is that the bowl could overflow and this should be indicated in the vent hole on the side of the carb and not on the throat or mouth of the carb.

 

[donn94]

Thanks Jiggz for all your help but i have try with the cowling off an tried now i dont think its the floats dont know what it is

 

[SkiDad]

Are your plugs wet ? Have you cleaned the plugs ? Are they BUHX Plugs ?

 

[donn94]

I'm using ngk plug there are not wet

 

[Jiggz]

So you've tried with the cowl off and it is still hard to start? And when at the driveway it starts easily but not when it is in the water with the cowl off? When you get it started and start running with it. Does it starts easily when it is hot or warm at least? Remember, you only choke when starting from a cold engine. Can you post a video (youtube link) of the engine running at idle and also at 2500 RPM? Might as well add a video when it's hard starting.

 

[donn94]

Yes tried with the cowl off. easy to start without a load after its warm up its the best engine in the world.As far as the video goes i think i can put it in a tub of water tomorrow an try

Thank for the help

 

[Jiggz]

Actually, unless the engine is put into gear there is no load on the engine. Regardless if the engine is in a tub, muffs or at the lake. Of course, we all know for safety purposes no engine will start (unless modified) if it is in gear because of the neutral safety switch. So I am not really sure what you mean "easy to start without a load . . ."

 

[jerryjerry05]

The float isn't that far off.
The float doesn't stop you from starting unless the floats/needle is stuck and not allowing fuel in the carb.
The squeezie supplies gas to the carb.
As the gas is burned and the float drops then the pump pushes more fuel in to the bowl.
Then the float as it rises will shut off the fuel until it gets burned and the cycle repeats itself.

Your no start isn't from a float unless the floats stuck in the closed position.

Do a compression and spark test.

Is the choke working.
All 3 choke shutters closing at the same time?

You turn the key and push in to choke.
You hold the key in all the time as the motors turning over.
Once it coughs then release the key and try starting again.

The air screws should be set at 1 and 1/16th turns out and left there."factory said so"
Mine are set there and no problems in years.
But some don't like that setting.
You might have to open them up more but all 3 should be set at the same.

 

[donn94]

[No message]

 

[donn94]

If I need a longer video let me know

 

[donn94]

It was starting now it's not this boat is driving me insane. please someone tell me it's really mess up so I can put me an the boat out of its misery

 

[Jiggz]

From the video, it seems the starter is either worn out and not up to speed or there is something holding it up like a discharged battery, hence the motor is not cranking fast enough to start the motor. If you an access to a spare starter you might just want to try that to find out if the slow cranking is due to a worn out starter or there is something binding in the engine itself preventing it from cranking faster. Do you know when was the last time the starter was opened and cleaned?

 

[donn94]

i had the boat for 4 years in it havent been cleaned. Ok I will try the battery first then starter Thanks

 

[jerryjerry05]

First!!! Check the battery.Hot?
You can have a dead cell and still read 12v.The cables make sure they aren't loose or any lumps in the cable.
Second!! Pull the plugs and see if it turns over faster. Yes go to 3
Third!! Do a compression test. Ok? Go to 4
Four!! Rebuild the starter. Still slow? go to 5
Five drop the lower unit. Sometimes the bearings seize and cause slow cranking.

The video shows a starter that's dragging from low compression.

If the comp is low??? Pull the head and see what damage is in there.
Hopefully it's just a blown head gasket.