85HP Evinrude won’t shut off with key.

[DoingTheBestICan]

I have a 85HP Evinrude model 85293R it’s a 72 model. When I turn the key to cut it off it does nothing. All the connectors and wires was cleaned up and everything had to be re-assembled in the control box. Everything works fine I get reverse, neutral, forward just fine. The engine starts up fine. I replaced the blocking diode in the control box and then the ignition and still will not shut off. I read the other post about this issue and saw to look for a black and yellow wire at the motor but I don’t locate that wire on my engine. Anyone have an experience with this issue?

 

[racerone]

No black / yellow wire on 1972 models.-------A 73 and newer had that.

 

[boobie]

Check you ignition switch for being wired correctly. You have what they called battery ignition. Not magneto. Is that blocking diode wired correctly ??

 

[DoingTheBestICan]

No black / yellow wire on 1972 models.-------A 73 and newer had that.

That is correct racerone, there is no black/yellow on this motor.. i have looked everywhere several times over and over and there is no black/yellow.

boobie, the ignition seems to be wired correctly I got a new OEM ignition and connected everything the way the directions said and double checked everything to see if it was right.

The blocking diode has got to be right also it was a new item I put in . I believe I hooked it up backwards the first time I put it in and the shift selector switch would not work, I switched it and now it works, so Im sure its right now.

 

[F_R]

Is this the same motor we had a long discussion about awhile back? I thought that was resolved, but maybe not. Anyhoo, the blocking diode is the usual cause of that problem. As a temporary test, just disconnect the diode. Will the motor shut off now? If it does, the diode is no good, or installed backward. If it still does not shut off, there is a wiring problem somewhere else. It would be nice to find the old discussion so we know where we left off.

 

[DoingTheBestICan]

Yes FR same motor. I have everything working now. My big problem was the reverse not working. It was a wire in the unit on the reverse solenoid. I had to re do the control box because all the wires was cut and pulled out and was not assembled when I got the motor.

I put a new shift selector switch in, new ignition, new blocking diode, made new connections for all wires and put everything back together. Everything works great now except the motor wont cut off with the key.

I will work on it some this morning and disconnect the blocking diode and see what happens and let you know.

 

[F_R]

Aha. With all that work done on the wiring, it becomes interesting. I'll bet I know what's wrong, but do me the honor of doing the diode disconnect test first. First things first, as they say.

 

[DoingTheBestICan]

Aha. With all that work done on the wiring, it becomes interesting. I'll bet I know what's wrong, but do me the honor of doing the diode disconnect test first. First things first, as they say.

I disconnected the diode and the motor stayed running.

 

[F_R]

OK, I believe the alternator is supplying a voltage to the ignition amplifier. Now to find out why. Leave the diode disconnected for now and proceed with the following:

I'm reposting the wiring diagram for reference.

Look at the terminal strip on the motor (and diagram). See the purple/green stripe wire coming from the dual-diode assy? It goes to a screw on the terminal strip. Also on that same screw is a second purple/green stripe wire leading to the main harness and ultimately to the shift switch in the control. Those two purple/green stripe wires are to be the only wires on that terminal strip screw! If that agrees with what you have, then I think there is a wiring fault with the purple/green stripe wire contacting a purple wire somewhere between there and the shift switch. Possibly where the cable was cut and spliced.

Lets try another test. Disconnect the purple/green stripe wires from the terminal strip and insulate (tape) them from each other. Also leave the blocking diode disconnected. Warning: the motor will stay in forward gear when doing this test. Does the motor shut off now? It should.

EDIT: Last sentence deleted. If it does shut off now, come back for further instructions.

 

[DoingTheBestICan]

Here is a photo of my motor. I have the purple/ green wire but i don’t have a second. I will do the test now and see wht happens.

 

[DoingTheBestICan]

Ok, disregard my last post, the other purple and green wire was hiding behind the one in the front. I removed them and taped them and tried to start the motor. The motor would turn but not start up. I connected the wires back to the terminal and it started right away.

 

[F_R]

Ok, it is running off the alternator as a source of ignition feed. It should not be that way. The ignition feed should come from the purple wire coming back from the key switch. All I can tell you is that it did not come that way from the factory. Something or Somebody has messed up the wiring. I wish I could tell you where the mess-up is, but I am not there to trace it all out. You need to find somebody that is knowledgeable with electrical circuit tracing to sit down and use the diagram as a guide and trace the whole ignition circuit. I still suspect the hacked cable.

BTW, do your big cable connector plugs at the motor match color-wise?

 

[DoingTheBestICan]

Thank you FR for your help with this and support. It’s really annoying but I’ve done about all I can do with it. I put it back together yesterday the cranked it just to make sure everything was running normal like before. I went to cut it off just hoping it would work and it kinda did. It cut off but is was a slow or delay cut off. Maybe it’s a bad connection with a wire somewhere. I don’t know but just want to tank you and everyone for the help.