85hp force carbs leaking, starting and running problems

Laidoutdime15

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Apr 4, 2016
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Hey everyone awesome site with good info! But still have a few questions.

I purchased my first boat earlier this year - 89 bayliner capri 1700 with a 85hp force(856X9G). Thing ran pretty good up until 2 weeks ago. It started having trouble starting and would fall on it's face while accelerating slowly. WOT and idle was smooth. I noticed fuel leaking from the middle carb bowl so did some research and bought a manual to help with gasket replacement and carb cleaning. When I got the carbs off I found that all 3 floats were not secured and were hanging with the pin halfway out. I proceeded to clean the carbs(with carb cleaner), replaced the bowl gaskets, and replaced all fuel lines.

I used the tutorial provided to reassemble, link the carbs, set floats, set air screw to 1 and a 1/4 turn, and set the timing at WOT to 30 degress. Took it to the lake last night and had it idling ok after about 10 minutes of trying to start it. But died about 30 seconds afted I put it in forward gear with it still on the trailer. I adjusted thd idle and gave it some throttle but it constantly died like it was getting too much fuel( could smell it from front seat). I tried to adjust the air screw with no success. I pulled the cover off the carbs and tried again and noticed fuel pouring from all 3 carbs(about a tablespoon) everytime I tried to start it.

So before I go any further I was hoping for some guidence since I'm no boat mechanic.

Compression was 120 on all cyl last time I checked, and has good spark.
What would cause so much fuel to pour out of the carbs?
It would also backfire with it in gear, is this caused by too much or too little fuel?
 

Jiggz

Captain
Joined
Oct 23, 2009
Messages
3,909
You said the boat was still on the trailer when you were testing. Do you know for sure it was not tilted too high to cause fuel to ran off the carbs. You can also do some testing on the driveway using flushing muffs and garden hose. Just make sure the boat is not tilted too high. If fuel still continues to flow out of the carbs, then you might have some reed problems, assuming you set the carb floats correctly.

Another thing to look, is to make sure you do not overchoke. Overchoking causes flooding and makes it real pain to get the motor started. The choke butterflies or plates are the one on the front. They should stay on horizontal when not engaged.

Finally, make sure you use proper starting procedures. Let us know if you are not aware or maybe post what you do for starting procedures.
 

Laidoutdime15

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Apr 4, 2016
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I did have the boat on the trailer, but I did have the engine trimmed to where the top of the flywheel looked parallel with the water surface. Figured that should have been ok, but fuel was still coming out past the choke valve. I believe I set the floats correctly. I held the carbs upside down and the float was parallel with the surface of the carb housing. If that is incorrect could someone tell me how it should be done?

I may have overchoked at somepoint but it didn't want to start all night.

No I wasn't aware of a particular starting procedure. All I've done is pump the bulb until it's firm, push the key in to choke(when cold), and turn. Not sure if that is correct but seemed to work so far this summer.

So if it's a reed problem how would I correct it? Does that mean a full rebuild? I plan on pulling the carbs again to check em out.
 

Jiggz

Captain
Joined
Oct 23, 2009
Messages
3,909
In addition to what you are already doing for starting do the following:
1. Before pushing in to choke, set the control lever to high speed idle. There are two ways to do this depending on the type of control you have. One requires pushing a center button and pushing the lever forward. The other, requires you to pull out the lever (by the center pivot point) towards you or port side and pushing it forward.

2. While pushing on the ignition switch to activate the choke, turn the key to start position and hold it in there until, either the motor starts or if it "coughs" (more like lean or rich pop and it disengages the starter when it does cough) or hold it no more than 10 secs at a time.

3. If the motor does not start but coughs, then reset the ignition switch to off and then back to the start position again but this time without engaging the choke. Continue to do this 2~3 or until it starts.

If it doesn't start after 3 attempts, then try engaging the choke again and do the the same procedures all over again.

If you decide to dismount the carbs, you might as well go one step further and check the reeds. It is located just behind the carb intake adapters. It is not a total take down to check or replace reeds. If you do not know what it looks like try searching the forum first or even google to know exactly what you are looking for.
 

Laidoutdime15

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Joined
Apr 4, 2016
Messages
3
Thank you for the info Jiggz I did not know about setting the lever for high speed idle. I will try that next time and see if it helps.

My biggest concern right now is the fuel coming out of the carbs. I could see there being float or reed problems if it was one carb but it's all 3. Is it common for reeds to go in all 3 carbs at once? Maybe it's the needle seats? I doubt it is normal to see fuel coming out like that but again I'm a newb when it comes to any boat or boat motor. I did read a post about a containment and recirculation compartment at the bottom of the intake, I understand why it's there but it still concerns me about the amount of fuel coming out. Was wondering if anyone has run into this problem before any advice on this topic would be great before I start disassembling again.
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
18,125
The needle and seat.
​There are 2 types.
One needle has a rubber tip and sets in a smooth seat.
The other has a solid needle and a seat with an o-ring in the bottom.

Inspect the parts and see if the rubber needle has a groove and if the seat with the o-ring still has the o-ring.

Turn the carb upside down and see if you can blow air into the carb.

While the carbs are off look in the hole and inspect the reeds.

Do another compression test.
It can change from one trip to the next.
 
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