I have a 1986 90hp inline 6 serial #0a935296 elpto.
The motor has always been what I call " Hard to start Cold" If it sets for more than a 2 weeks without running .
But feed it the Choke and a slight Throttle and crank it a minute and it starts.
Idles I think Very smooth, and stays smooth when in gear and under load.
When I got the motor I knew it started good, sounded good, but never would get the RPM's up where they should be when
your in Gear and past Half open Throttle or Wide open Throttle.
But it was still impressive how well it pushed the Small boat around that it was on.
I took the boat and had the complete trim unit,Motor,throttle/gearbox, and wiring harness removed and placed on my 30'Pontoon boat.
I also bought new fuel tank,fuel lines,filters, steering componets and throttle and drive cables and a Faria Tach at the same time and had them all installed. Plus had the spark plugs and wires changed, new water pump impeller, lower oil changed, carbs rebuilt/cleaned syncronized.
When I got it out on the lake it still had the same problem of not getting above what the Tach says is 2200-2350RPM's.
Now before this we never knew what the Rpms were due to there was no Tach.
I started to diagnose the problem by properly adjusting the throttle and drive cables that go into the Motor housing,
But the problem was not there.
I then Tested the compression , Very good on all 6, slightly above 120, no more than 124-125.
Changed the plugs again, changed the fuel filter again, and we took it out and did the final adjustments to the carbs so that it runs great, UNTILL you want to go above 2200-2400Rpms.
at about 50% thru the throttles travel (while in gear and under load) the Rpms dont climb any higher, even if you push the Throttle to WOT, it does almost very slightly kind of choke it or very very slightly seems to bog down when your at WOT to about 2125RPM's, If I pull the throttle back just a touch it goes up to 2200-2350RPM's.
If I run like this for more than 30 minutes at WOT the motor will suddenly drop Rpms to almost a fast idle and sounds like its out of fuel, If Pull the throttle back to netural and let it run for about 15 seconds and depress the "NETURAL button" and lightly fast idle the motor to about 1600Rpm's and then back to Netural Idle, I can push it right back into gear and go right back to 2200Rpms for maybe 30-45 minutes, I usually dont ever run it for more than 45min to an hour because thats about how long it takes me to get to my next fishing hole.
Now it will REV up past 4500RPMs and probably 5000 when your in netural and you give the throttle a Quick rap.
Not that i have a habbit of doing that but I wanted to see if it if it would.
I started reading and first tested the ignition, the stator, the trigger, rectifier, both switch boxes as the manual and trouble shooting guides from mercury and CDI prescribe.
Im gettin spark to all 6 cylinders, I have not used my FAKE Sparkplug with the adjuster on it to measure the length of the spark.
I have not done the DVA test. I AM going to build one Tomorrow, I have a Fluke meter Thats True RMS 186 i think.
Everything checked OK.. Excluding the DVA test...
But a friend (mechanic) suggested I inspect ALL the wiring very closely.
I didnt like the overall look of the stator, starting to have degraded jackets on the stators wires and the trigger also, So i figured might as well buy a Stator, Trigger and Rectifier and install those parts and maybe itll run faster like it should.
And I also swapped the Switch boxes with each other.
AND I have not replaced any of the coils.
yes we checked TDC and timed it afterwards, its set excatly where it was, and that agreed with what I read in the book.
SIDE NOTE:::Replacing the 2 SWITCH BOXES (Friggen very expensive) is why I didnt buy them.
WELL IT DIDNT DO ANYTHING TO IMPROVE MY PROBLEM. Runs slightly smoother, Not that it ran rough before, but still nothing above 2200Rpms.
I have been running it like this about 2-8 nights a month when we go out fishing. its been this way since late last year.
The Stator I bought IS USED,, But it came from a boat mechanic shop, and they tested it before selling it to me and said its in perfect working order. It was actually in the original box, looked perfectly new and in a locked cabinet that said Mercury Test Parts.
It was one of their "TESTERS", only been used for maybe 2-5 hours over the last 3 years. They no longer are working on the Older Mercs and did not need it anymore.
So now to my QUESTIONS...
Could it be the Power Boxes that are giving me this problem??
Or maybe I need a Brand New Never seen daylight Stator? Maybe the High Side of this Stator is bad also????
Have I done the correct steps in diagnosing and fixing this problem? Excluding the DVA meter test that has not been done, nor measuring the length of Spark coming out of the plugs.
What do I need to do to fix this motor right so it will preform correctly.
i cant be too far from having it fixed,, or am I way off base??
Thanks for ANY help in advance!!!
Mike Jenkins
The motor has always been what I call " Hard to start Cold" If it sets for more than a 2 weeks without running .
But feed it the Choke and a slight Throttle and crank it a minute and it starts.
Idles I think Very smooth, and stays smooth when in gear and under load.
When I got the motor I knew it started good, sounded good, but never would get the RPM's up where they should be when
your in Gear and past Half open Throttle or Wide open Throttle.
But it was still impressive how well it pushed the Small boat around that it was on.
I took the boat and had the complete trim unit,Motor,throttle/gearbox, and wiring harness removed and placed on my 30'Pontoon boat.
I also bought new fuel tank,fuel lines,filters, steering componets and throttle and drive cables and a Faria Tach at the same time and had them all installed. Plus had the spark plugs and wires changed, new water pump impeller, lower oil changed, carbs rebuilt/cleaned syncronized.
When I got it out on the lake it still had the same problem of not getting above what the Tach says is 2200-2350RPM's.
Now before this we never knew what the Rpms were due to there was no Tach.
I started to diagnose the problem by properly adjusting the throttle and drive cables that go into the Motor housing,
But the problem was not there.
I then Tested the compression , Very good on all 6, slightly above 120, no more than 124-125.
Changed the plugs again, changed the fuel filter again, and we took it out and did the final adjustments to the carbs so that it runs great, UNTILL you want to go above 2200-2400Rpms.
at about 50% thru the throttles travel (while in gear and under load) the Rpms dont climb any higher, even if you push the Throttle to WOT, it does almost very slightly kind of choke it or very very slightly seems to bog down when your at WOT to about 2125RPM's, If I pull the throttle back just a touch it goes up to 2200-2350RPM's.
If I run like this for more than 30 minutes at WOT the motor will suddenly drop Rpms to almost a fast idle and sounds like its out of fuel, If Pull the throttle back to netural and let it run for about 15 seconds and depress the "NETURAL button" and lightly fast idle the motor to about 1600Rpm's and then back to Netural Idle, I can push it right back into gear and go right back to 2200Rpms for maybe 30-45 minutes, I usually dont ever run it for more than 45min to an hour because thats about how long it takes me to get to my next fishing hole.
Now it will REV up past 4500RPMs and probably 5000 when your in netural and you give the throttle a Quick rap.
Not that i have a habbit of doing that but I wanted to see if it if it would.
I started reading and first tested the ignition, the stator, the trigger, rectifier, both switch boxes as the manual and trouble shooting guides from mercury and CDI prescribe.
Im gettin spark to all 6 cylinders, I have not used my FAKE Sparkplug with the adjuster on it to measure the length of the spark.
I have not done the DVA test. I AM going to build one Tomorrow, I have a Fluke meter Thats True RMS 186 i think.
Everything checked OK.. Excluding the DVA test...
But a friend (mechanic) suggested I inspect ALL the wiring very closely.
I didnt like the overall look of the stator, starting to have degraded jackets on the stators wires and the trigger also, So i figured might as well buy a Stator, Trigger and Rectifier and install those parts and maybe itll run faster like it should.
And I also swapped the Switch boxes with each other.
AND I have not replaced any of the coils.
yes we checked TDC and timed it afterwards, its set excatly where it was, and that agreed with what I read in the book.
SIDE NOTE:::Replacing the 2 SWITCH BOXES (Friggen very expensive) is why I didnt buy them.
WELL IT DIDNT DO ANYTHING TO IMPROVE MY PROBLEM. Runs slightly smoother, Not that it ran rough before, but still nothing above 2200Rpms.
I have been running it like this about 2-8 nights a month when we go out fishing. its been this way since late last year.
The Stator I bought IS USED,, But it came from a boat mechanic shop, and they tested it before selling it to me and said its in perfect working order. It was actually in the original box, looked perfectly new and in a locked cabinet that said Mercury Test Parts.
It was one of their "TESTERS", only been used for maybe 2-5 hours over the last 3 years. They no longer are working on the Older Mercs and did not need it anymore.
So now to my QUESTIONS...
Could it be the Power Boxes that are giving me this problem??
Or maybe I need a Brand New Never seen daylight Stator? Maybe the High Side of this Stator is bad also????
Have I done the correct steps in diagnosing and fixing this problem? Excluding the DVA meter test that has not been done, nor measuring the length of Spark coming out of the plugs.
What do I need to do to fix this motor right so it will preform correctly.
i cant be too far from having it fixed,, or am I way off base??
Thanks for ANY help in advance!!!
Mike Jenkins