EDIT: corrected title
SOOOO newbie here. I picked up a free Ebbtide Dynatrack a few years ago. I'm in the home stretch of a restoration. The motor runs well except the warning alarm goes off after about 1 or two minutes running on the muffs.
First of all, it's an'88 Evinrude V4 110hp (thanks Cofe) ......the boat was bought new in 1989 ish, was used about 7 or 8 times the first season, then parked outside, uncovered in a corn feild for the next 20 years. It never ran after that until I brought it home, cleaned the carbs, replaced the power pack, and rewired most of the boat (stupid mice...) It runs really well now surprisingly. I didn't check the compression yet but it purrs right along. What should the compression be on this motor for each cylinder?
Model #: E110TLCCA (on top of disc) and R1813045 (on the bottom of disc).
Like I said before, the alarm starts to go off after a few minutes. I just hooked up the gas and oil tank this past weekend and had it running totally on it's own. Before I was just running mix right from a gas can. Part of my problem is that I have no idea if it's getting oil from the VRO system. I don't want to bypass this unless I have to. I did mark the oil level on the outside of the tank in hopes I'll see the level drop after a few times running. The exhaust is typical of a 2 stroke, smells oily and has the whitish-blue smoke coming out. This leads me to ASSUME, it's getting oil but I can't be certain. Is there an easy way to tell if the VRO is working as it's supposed to? If there's not an easy way, is there a hard way?
The second cause might be a water issue. I didn't replace the water pump/impeller yet and I'd rather not unless I HAVE TO. Do impellers go bad over time or do they wear out due to use? If I need to replace this, where is it located and how difficult of a job is it? I ran it today on the muffs again and let the alarm sound for a few minutes. I had water coming out from the exhaust and from the holes in the lower unit like it should, but had none from the pee spout. I disconnected the pisser spout and had water there, so my indicator tube is just blocked I think, I'll double check this later.
When it idled without the indicator tube hooked up, water was coming out of the motor (where it should feed into the indicator) and shooting in a arc about 2 or 3 feet past the motor. I didn't notice any increase in water pressure/distance when I ran it up to 2000 rpm. Then it sort of went to a trickle for a short time and I shut the motor off. I let it sit for a few minutes and started the engine again and had water consistently this time, but again, no increase in pressure at a higher rpm compared to idle. I also noticed that the left bank (looking at the back of the motor) was hotter than the right bank. I could hold my hand on the right bank indefinitely without getting burned but the left bank I could only hold for about 3 seconds or so before it was painful. So, do boat motors have thermostats or do I have a bad water pump and impeller or both? If there are t-stats, does this motor have just one, or is there one for each cylinder bank? Also, where are they located and how hard are they to replace (assuming this is the culprit)? I'm thinking that there might be one t-stat for each bank and the left side bank is stuck closed and not getting water.
Another problem: I noticed a small amount of gear oil leaking from behind the prop right at the output shaft. I would assume there's a seal in there and it's bad. I only noticed this last weekend when I put the boat in gear and let it run for about 3 minutes around 1500 rpm. Is this seal easily replaced or do I have to tear the whole lower unit apart?
So to sum up my million questions:
- How can I check the VRO system to see if it's working?
- What's the deal with the water pump/impeller on a boat motor? How do they work specifically?
- Where is the water pump/impeller located and how hard is it to change it?
- What's the deal with thermostats? Do I have 1, 2 or none? If I do have them, how can I tell if they're stuck and where are they located? How difficult is to replace these?
- What's the deal with the prop seal?
- What should the compression be for each cylinder?
- What RPM do these motors typically cruise at and what do they MAX out at? I never had a boat with a tach on it before.....
Thanks in advance for all the help and sorry for the long post. I thought I'd roll all my questions into one post. I'm a fairly confident shade-tree mechanic and I would't hesitate to tackle just about any job on a motor. This is the first boat motor and first 2 stroke I've had to work on. The rest of my experience is with small block V8's and small gas engines......
Thanks again.
SOOOO newbie here. I picked up a free Ebbtide Dynatrack a few years ago. I'm in the home stretch of a restoration. The motor runs well except the warning alarm goes off after about 1 or two minutes running on the muffs.
First of all, it's an'88 Evinrude V4 110hp (thanks Cofe) ......the boat was bought new in 1989 ish, was used about 7 or 8 times the first season, then parked outside, uncovered in a corn feild for the next 20 years. It never ran after that until I brought it home, cleaned the carbs, replaced the power pack, and rewired most of the boat (stupid mice...) It runs really well now surprisingly. I didn't check the compression yet but it purrs right along. What should the compression be on this motor for each cylinder?
Model #: E110TLCCA (on top of disc) and R1813045 (on the bottom of disc).
Like I said before, the alarm starts to go off after a few minutes. I just hooked up the gas and oil tank this past weekend and had it running totally on it's own. Before I was just running mix right from a gas can. Part of my problem is that I have no idea if it's getting oil from the VRO system. I don't want to bypass this unless I have to. I did mark the oil level on the outside of the tank in hopes I'll see the level drop after a few times running. The exhaust is typical of a 2 stroke, smells oily and has the whitish-blue smoke coming out. This leads me to ASSUME, it's getting oil but I can't be certain. Is there an easy way to tell if the VRO is working as it's supposed to? If there's not an easy way, is there a hard way?
The second cause might be a water issue. I didn't replace the water pump/impeller yet and I'd rather not unless I HAVE TO. Do impellers go bad over time or do they wear out due to use? If I need to replace this, where is it located and how difficult of a job is it? I ran it today on the muffs again and let the alarm sound for a few minutes. I had water coming out from the exhaust and from the holes in the lower unit like it should, but had none from the pee spout. I disconnected the pisser spout and had water there, so my indicator tube is just blocked I think, I'll double check this later.
When it idled without the indicator tube hooked up, water was coming out of the motor (where it should feed into the indicator) and shooting in a arc about 2 or 3 feet past the motor. I didn't notice any increase in water pressure/distance when I ran it up to 2000 rpm. Then it sort of went to a trickle for a short time and I shut the motor off. I let it sit for a few minutes and started the engine again and had water consistently this time, but again, no increase in pressure at a higher rpm compared to idle. I also noticed that the left bank (looking at the back of the motor) was hotter than the right bank. I could hold my hand on the right bank indefinitely without getting burned but the left bank I could only hold for about 3 seconds or so before it was painful. So, do boat motors have thermostats or do I have a bad water pump and impeller or both? If there are t-stats, does this motor have just one, or is there one for each cylinder bank? Also, where are they located and how hard are they to replace (assuming this is the culprit)? I'm thinking that there might be one t-stat for each bank and the left side bank is stuck closed and not getting water.
Another problem: I noticed a small amount of gear oil leaking from behind the prop right at the output shaft. I would assume there's a seal in there and it's bad. I only noticed this last weekend when I put the boat in gear and let it run for about 3 minutes around 1500 rpm. Is this seal easily replaced or do I have to tear the whole lower unit apart?
So to sum up my million questions:
- How can I check the VRO system to see if it's working?
- What's the deal with the water pump/impeller on a boat motor? How do they work specifically?
- Where is the water pump/impeller located and how hard is it to change it?
- What's the deal with thermostats? Do I have 1, 2 or none? If I do have them, how can I tell if they're stuck and where are they located? How difficult is to replace these?
- What's the deal with the prop seal?
- What should the compression be for each cylinder?
- What RPM do these motors typically cruise at and what do they MAX out at? I never had a boat with a tach on it before.....
Thanks in advance for all the help and sorry for the long post. I thought I'd roll all my questions into one post. I'm a fairly confident shade-tree mechanic and I would't hesitate to tackle just about any job on a motor. This is the first boat motor and first 2 stroke I've had to work on. The rest of my experience is with small block V8's and small gas engines......
Thanks again.
