89 Force 50 HP need re-assembly help

[Eddie Rivera]

Hello friends, I finally took the motor apart for the exhaust gasket replacement. I used that JP blaster as instructed by you guys, however at the plate where the motor sits, most of the bolts or screws were relatively loose had lots of anti-seize grease, I'm afraid this was one of the causes for the exhaust gasket to fail.
I need help - do I change all the bolts to anti-corrosive material?
Do I use anti-seize grease or locktite/ threadlock?? Blue or red?
Where do I use each?
Under the fly wheel things were loose again, can I use it there too?
How do I find out the right torque for each section?
I will change the carb gasket and O rings, will that mess up my timing? Please help!!!

 

[MickLovin]

Re: 89 Force 50 HP need re-assembly help

Firstly I would suggest you get a manual first stop and then go from there, they usually have the specs and you maybe lucky with what type of bolts etc, unsure about bolts but if they are the ones that come with it I would leave them and re-prep them with antiseize, if they are loosening is it possible to put a 316 s/s spring washer under them?
You need a Manual, it will tell you how to set up carbs, timing etc.

 

[pnwboat]

Re: 89 Force 50 HP need re-assembly help

You can change the exhaust cover bolts to 316 stainless steel and as mentioned above, use some split lock washers to maintain tension. Not sure about the 50HP motors, but on the 3 and 4 cylinder motors, the exhaust cover bolts are 1 1/4 inch long which is not common at most hardware stores. They're usually 1 inch or 1 1/2 inch long, so getting the right length may be an issue. You could also take up some of the extra length with a regular flat washer plus a split lock washer.

Instead of anti-seize I use this product. It's called Tef-Gel. Just google Tef-Gel. Specifically formulated for marine environment using stainless steel fasteners in aluminum alloy. I've had some stainless steel bolts that have almost become "welded" in place due to corrosion. There is some type of galvanic reaction between the aluminum alloy used in outboard motors and stainless steel. Read the reviews. Since I've started using it, I've had zero issues with removing stainless fasteners that have been in place for years. Having to drill out a stainless steel bolt can be a job. You have to use a Cobalt or Carbide steel drill bit. Stainless steel can be tough to work with.

If you're using loctite, Blue or Red will work. A lot of folks will tell you not to use the Red because it is permanent. I've always used the Red and never had an issue removing the fastener.

A manual will have all of the torque specs.

You will not mess up your timing by redoing the carb.

 

[MickLovin]

Re: 89 Force 50 HP need re-assembly help

Hey pnwboat, is the copper anti seize no good? Could the copper cause an electrolytic problem, I actually didn't think of that when putting it on till the other day when I was watching a program about electrolysis and how in the old days they used copper for anti fowling, but then they found it rusting there nails in the timber. I use it all the time, is this a bad thing???? help now

 

[pnwboat]

Re: 89 Force 50 HP need re-assembly help

I think that using something is better than nothing. I've used copper, aluminum, and nickel based anti seize in the past. They all worked OK to some degree. The object is to prevent any water from coming into contact with the two dissimilar metals. I'm not an expert in metallurgy etc, but I wouldn't think that it is a bad thing to use copper anti seize. The copper component in the anti seize is reactive. The Tef-Gel is pretty much inert and does not have any ingredients that are reactive. Even the marine greases are made up of refined petroleum based ingredients that eventually break down over time allowing moisture to penetrate.

 

[Eddie Rivera]

Re: 89 Force 50 HP need re-assembly help

Thank you guys for your response and help I have other questions - when I put in the new exhaust gaskets do I use any other kind of gasket sealant or maker along with the gaskets themselves ?????
Near the thermostat is a plug, is it okay or recommended to hook up a hose to it as a telltale or pisser???
I would like to replace the mortors fuel hoses is it true that for insurance purposes it has to be marine fuel lines only or can it be regular fuel lines?? (I'm not talking about the fuel lines from the gas tank, rather on the engine )

Thanks ahead!!!

 

[pnwboat]

Re: 89 Force 50 HP need re-assembly help

Typically no gasket sealant is required on the exhaust cover gaskets. Some gaskets have a thin line of sealant already applied on the sealing surfaces. I have on occasion used some due to pitted sealing surfaces on the motor. If you do use some sealant, Permatex Ultra Grey RTV works well, but apply very sparingly. A very thin coating is all that is necessary.

The plug close to the thermostat is where most folks install a fitting for the Telltale.

Marine grade fuel lines are recommended. Not sure if that is an insurance requirement, but if there is a fuel line leak associated with the use of non-marine rated hose resulting in a fire or other damage, you might be leaving yourself vulnerable. This is probably more of an issue with inboard motors, since the fuel lines and motor are in a somewhat sealed confined area.