90 bayliner capri US marine power force 90

[udin]

Hi i recently got very decent shape in and out 90 bayliner capri with US marine power Force 90 has only 40 hours of engine in its life time and the problem is last time the boat was running is about 2 years ago..
i have 0 experience with marine's engine especiallly this type of model that doesnt look like car's engine at all
i know a bit of car's engine and i believe the principal is about the same..anyway i understood the engine POS but i want to keep it..
i've been trolling this forum on the specific engine for hours but only got small kind of info i need so i figured would not hurt to ask you guys..
i want to do a "refresh/tune up" to make it "sailable" without getting me stranded..
i am thinking complete fluid change in orders..but i dont know what kind of oil it takes? and how many type of oils?
i know theres fill and vent and drain plug for oil by the propeller, and what kind of oil that goes there?
is there engine oil?
is there manual somewhere that i can read or look up?
where do i find any replacement parts, last time i read something about mercury company bought it?

thanks in advance and i am excited with my first boat

 

[Nordin]

The Force 90Hp is a two stroker and need TCW-3 oil added in the fueltank. Ratio 50:1.
Car engines are almost four strokers and has valves to regulate the air/fuel mix.
Two stroker regulate with the piston and ports in the block.

Force is a rebanded Chrysler engine that US Marine bought in 1984-85 from Chrysler then Brunswick (Mercury) got it from US Marine when they bought Bayliner in late 80.s.
The Force 85, 90, 120 and 125Hp is similar to the Chrysler 3-4 cyl. engines from 70-80.s. The bore can be different (do not know in my mind difference in years).
Some 85 and 90 has 3,312 in bore and is 3 cyl. and some has 3,375 in bore. The 125 and 120Hp has same bore as 85 and 90Hp but has 4 cyl.
The ignitionsystem can be different, earlier engine has Motorola beltdriven distributer CDI systems and later has Prestolite CDI system without distributer.

As I said earlier, it has to have TCW-3 oil mixed in the tank (Force did not have a oilmixer) and the LU need gear oil SAE 80-90 typ.
The marine gear oil is similar to manual gearbox oil for cars but has some additives.

I use car SAE 80-90 oils in my OB and check/change it every autumn. I use car oil because it is much cheaper than marine gearcase oils.

 

[Frank Acampora]

You called it an " IN AND OUT" This leads me to believe you have an "L" drive with the engine inside the boat and an out-drive. While many parts of this set-up are the same as the outboard, there are several unique components and some of those are no longer available. For this reason, most people recommend against buying an "L" drive Bayliner.

Even though the engine is inside the boat it is still a 2 cycle engine and needs oil mixed with gas at the ratio of 50 to 1 or one pint oil to six gallons of gasoline. Some jet drives produced by Mercury were the exception and did have an oil pump driven off the crankshaft.

 

[SkiDad]

When you change the lube DO NOT take out the small screw on the side. The drain is on the bottom and is usually Allen.

 

[Jiggz]

For clarity maybe you can post a pic of your motor just to see if it is an L drive or simple outboard drive.

 

[21BaylinerCC]

When you change the lube DO NOT take out the small screw on the side. The drain is on the bottom and is usually Allen.

I second that!

Also, if fuel has been sitting in the fuel tank for the past two years, I would recommend draining it from the tank. I would install a fuel-water separator as well. Change the gear oil in the lower unit -- the drain plug should be on the very bottom so that all of it can drain out. When you go to change it, observe the liquid that comes out to ensure there is no water - if there is, you may need to check the seals on the lower unit.

 

[tommarvin]

Nordin,
No disrespect, but our Chrysler outboard service manual says, " Do not use harsh automobile motor oils or gear oils on Chrysler outboards"

We always change the hard plastic seals on vent, fill, drain, never use rubber O rings.

I would get a new water pump/ its a rubber impeller

on an out board, ours costs 13 bucks at iboats, and the gasket ,you tube explains it better than I.

We can scan some service manual pages, and email them to you, if that will help.

 

[udin]

thank you guys, you all are very helpfull!!
i will take pics of the engine and the boat tomorrow its night time, lightning not so good on my phone..but it is outboard and i am sorry for the confusion..

so for the mixture oil to mix the gas with is TCW-3, is there equivalent or better? will the car part store carry them? or is it has to be the marine store?
and the oil inside the outboard which is the drain hole is behind the propeller is SAE gear oil 80-90 weights marine grade?

i was wondering about the water pump too and watched the youtube on on how replace it..
thanks again for the good info guys!!

 

[Frank Acampora]

TOM: The reason for the service manual statement is because automobile MULTI-WEIGHT oils have compounds added to them that are actually harmful to outboard engines.

Auto rear end lube does not have the same additive package as marine and thus will not protect as well against corrosion. In fact, sometimes it can cause corrosion of the brass bushing on older Chrysler prop shafts. IF--If you do not have leaking seals or any water intrusion, automotive rear end oil is acceptable. I know a number of fellows that use it in various brand engines with no ill effects.

 

[Nordin]

Insist with Frank, it is the brass bushings that will be effected.
I have use auto gear oil for more than 15 years in my OB.s and with no ill effects. BUT it is my choise to use it.

Lube and oils is always a subject to discuss.
I have read in a datablade for gear oil for cars from a brand in this example Castrol brand.
The last sentence in the bottom of the datablade it is written.......Offered in smaller package (200ml) as OUTBOARD GEAROIL.

Make your own choise.

About two stroke oil I think you can buy it in car part stores, but I am in Sweden Europ? and over here they have it.
I know from other threads that Frank and others have answered this question that large store such as Wallmarts have it.

Then it is up to you how much you will spend on lubes, as long as it is TCW-3 typ it will do good to your Chrysler/Force.

 

[Jiggz]

Nordin,
No disrespect, but our Chrysler outboard service manual says, " Do not use harsh automobile motor oils or gear oils on Chrysler outboards"

We always change the hard plastic seals on vent, fill, drain, never use rubber O rings.

I would get a new water pump/ its a rubber impeller

on an out board, ours costs 13 bucks at iboats, and the gasket ,you tube explains it better than I.

We can scan some service manual pages, and email them to you, if that will help.

The keyword is "harsh" and exactly what that means is anybody's guess. And yes, I also use 80 GO 90 (SAE 80-90) gear oil for my LU for the last 7 years and seems to be working great. That doesn't mean you have to do the same. You can always stick with the expensive Mercury Quicksilver LU gear oil as recommended. Likewise, the same goes for those who choose to use automotive SAE 80-90.

 

[tommarvin]

Peace Nordin, I'm new here.

I'm never saying anything about gear oil, two stroke oil, or motor oil ever again.

 

[Nordin]

You are welcome, do not be upset, but lubes and oil is a "hot" subject at marine and OB forums.

OB needs only gear oil, two stroke oil and grease and make your on choise what you will use.

As long as you use TCW-3 two stroke oil, marine grease and SAE 80-90 gear oil your Force/Chrysler OB will last for a long time.
Then it is up to you how much money you will spend on lubes, but in my opinion the cheaper brands will do the work perfect if you do not racing or use you OB for "heavy duty".

 

[jerryjerry05]

The gear oil drain plug"behind the propeller" ???
​No drain plugs behind the prop.
Someone mentioned a drain plug on the bottom of the nosecone, usually an allenhead screw.


I've used 80/90 automotive gear oil since I bought the boat in 88
I use Walmart TCW-3 oil in the fuel.

Do a compression test and a spark test.
Get a FACTORY manual and follow instructions for the tests.
A cold motors comp test is as good as a hot motor.
If you use the key to test make sure you ground the spark leads.

 

[Jiggz]

You are welcome, do not be upset, but lubes and oil is a "hot" subject at marine and OB forums.

OB needs only gear oil, two stroke oil and grease and make your on choise what you will use.

As long as you use TCW-3 two stroke oil, marine grease and SAE 80-90 gear oil your Force/Chrysler OB will last for a long time.
Then it is up to you how much money you will spend on lubes, but in my opinion the cheaper brands will do the work perfect if you do not racing or use you OB for "heavy duty".

You might as well include the Ethanol Free fuel on that list of hot subject! Lol

 

[udin]

i dont plan to buy "more" oil than i needed and i do not plan to race but there is big chance it will be running WOT alot.
am i wrong if this type of engine similar to lawn mower or some short of little heavy duty machinery's motor?

took the pics but how do you upload pics to this forum??
do i need 3rd party hosting?

 

[jerryjerry05]

Nothing like a lawn mower.
.​No on the heavy machinery.

I think (maybe)you need to have 5 or more posts to post pics????

I guess we both need to read the rules??



Outboards were designed to run at higher rpm's. See the chase in the Gulf of Mexico?​Stolen boat ran at high speed for 300 mi.

I never run at wide open, uses too much fuel for the results.
I operate at 4300-4500rpms.

 

[steelespike]

Do a search for Schematic of 2 stroke outboard motor.For simplicity take a 1 cylinder motor and lay it on its side Eliminate valves,cam,timing chain
retain the piston,rod and crank and replace the head with a simple cover with a spark plug.replace the oil pan with a intake manifold,reed valve and carb.
The crankcase is part of the intake system.Thus the need for the oil fuel mix. The piston covers intake and exhaust ports Here is the magic as the piston is going up to compress the fuel air mix it is also pulling in the next fuel air mix. When it reaches the top dead center it fires.As the piston moves it opens the ports to exhaust at the same time
as it moves it is starting to compress the mix in the crank case.then it uncovers the intake ports, mix goes in and the piston compresses and it fires at top dead center.Every time the piston reaches top dead center it fires. (2 stroke)
I'm sure some pictures will make it clearer.