hautewheeler
Recruit
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2010
- Messages
- 4
Hi everyone.. this is my first post here. I have been reading a lot and enjoying seeing so much wonderful information being shared. - just want to start by saying thanks for that.
- so I have a 1995 (I think) evinrude 40hp electric start tiller motor with a tilt assist cylinder on my 1978 16' monarch alum. (great combination). I don't see an id tag on the transom clamp, but I did go to the bombardier website, deciphered the secret code, and the closest I can figure is that it is a E40TLEOD. the freeze plug on top at the back of the block reads G3998959.
I see a lot of the same posts for fuel issues, and before I got a new fuel pump, I thought I would ask some questions. I'm pretty sure that this motor has the vro, but the previous owner disabled that, and I have always mixed the gas and oil 50:1. the vro pump assembly is still there, but there is no oil line going to the motor.
for about two years the engine has intermittently had the same problem. sometimes it will run fine, idles good for 5-10 minutes at a time, gets to WOT (I learned that today
) no problem and stays there. other times you have to keep priming the bulb every 1-2 minutes to keep it running. when you prime the bulb, the engine runs great until it loses pressure (I think) and seems like it only runs on one cylinder (bogs real bad) and goes back to running fine if you pump the bulb. Now, it doesn't always do this.. sometimes, it seems like it snaps out of it, and goes back to running fine for a while. recently, it has become more constant. and will now die completely if you don't prime within 20 seconds of the bogging. sometimes it will bog, then kick back and forth high to low rpm, and then usually goes back to bogging.
I have replaced both external fuel tanks, new fuel lines to the engine, new high flow bulbs, made sure all lines inside the cowl are secure, replaced the fuel filter, (the old one was not bad) replaced the fuel fittings to the tank and the motor. I don't see or hear any thing when pressure is applied to the bulb, (no leaks or pinholes) except it sounds like one or both of the carb bowls are filling with fuel. so I am thinking either one of the floats are sticking, or the fuel pump is going. will it come and go, or will the fuel pump just quit and be dead?
I have ordered two carb rebuild kits, and will get them cleaned, rebuilt, assembled and put back on soon as the kits get here. I have never done work on an outboard engine before, but I am pretty good with a wrench, and these don't look anything like a rochester quadrajet!!! It looks like it might be a fairly simple rebuild as long as I don't goof up the linkage.
I have yet to test and see if the vro/fuel pump is working, but if it is found to be bad, can just the fuel side be rebuilt, is this pump covered in the parts from the 433519 rebuild kit? should I do the non vro fuel pump conversion? I know it's a lot of questions, but it seems like you guys are pretty good at these types of things. I hope I gave enough information.
if this goes well, I might be back to talk about getting the "good idle" to the "great idle"
-thanks guys, in advance.
- so I have a 1995 (I think) evinrude 40hp electric start tiller motor with a tilt assist cylinder on my 1978 16' monarch alum. (great combination). I don't see an id tag on the transom clamp, but I did go to the bombardier website, deciphered the secret code, and the closest I can figure is that it is a E40TLEOD. the freeze plug on top at the back of the block reads G3998959.
I see a lot of the same posts for fuel issues, and before I got a new fuel pump, I thought I would ask some questions. I'm pretty sure that this motor has the vro, but the previous owner disabled that, and I have always mixed the gas and oil 50:1. the vro pump assembly is still there, but there is no oil line going to the motor.
for about two years the engine has intermittently had the same problem. sometimes it will run fine, idles good for 5-10 minutes at a time, gets to WOT (I learned that today
) no problem and stays there. other times you have to keep priming the bulb every 1-2 minutes to keep it running. when you prime the bulb, the engine runs great until it loses pressure (I think) and seems like it only runs on one cylinder (bogs real bad) and goes back to running fine if you pump the bulb. Now, it doesn't always do this.. sometimes, it seems like it snaps out of it, and goes back to running fine for a while. recently, it has become more constant. and will now die completely if you don't prime within 20 seconds of the bogging. sometimes it will bog, then kick back and forth high to low rpm, and then usually goes back to bogging. I have replaced both external fuel tanks, new fuel lines to the engine, new high flow bulbs, made sure all lines inside the cowl are secure, replaced the fuel filter, (the old one was not bad) replaced the fuel fittings to the tank and the motor. I don't see or hear any thing when pressure is applied to the bulb, (no leaks or pinholes) except it sounds like one or both of the carb bowls are filling with fuel. so I am thinking either one of the floats are sticking, or the fuel pump is going. will it come and go, or will the fuel pump just quit and be dead?
I have ordered two carb rebuild kits, and will get them cleaned, rebuilt, assembled and put back on soon as the kits get here. I have never done work on an outboard engine before, but I am pretty good with a wrench, and these don't look anything like a rochester quadrajet!!! It looks like it might be a fairly simple rebuild as long as I don't goof up the linkage.
I have yet to test and see if the vro/fuel pump is working, but if it is found to be bad, can just the fuel side be rebuilt, is this pump covered in the parts from the 433519 rebuild kit? should I do the non vro fuel pump conversion? I know it's a lot of questions, but it seems like you guys are pretty good at these types of things. I hope I gave enough information.
if this goes well, I might be back to talk about getting the "good idle" to the "great idle"
-thanks guys, in advance.
