95XR Sport Jet

Blgreggjr

Cadet
Joined
Jun 8, 2019
Messages
8
Ok Guys! I have scoured the internet for info and am coming up short. I bought a 1996 Hobie Jet center console as a project and it is slowly becoming a pain in my rear. So, got the boat not running with stuff disconnected and missing inside. The oil pump has been bypassed and linkage lost. So I guess I’ll stick with premix. Drained/filled tank. A ball has been added. The problem is the cold start. This one has the wax ball enricher valve. It works to my knowledge. I have no idea where it draws fuel from. Is it easier to try and fix this ancient enricher system or just to use a new style valve for a mercury with the red switch on the bottom that I can tie into the pressure side and use the key switch choke for power to the solenoid?
 

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jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
18,117
The first pic isn't close enough??
I've never heard of anything called
"wax ball enricher valve" pics?
Better pic?
You added a ball, the fuel pump not working?

It's a Force block then the ignition is Mercury..

There is a PWC forum.
 

Redbarron%%

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Dec 7, 2017
Messages
479
I have a 1995 Hobie Jet and I have some answers for you.
1, the fuel for the enrichment valve comes from the #2 carburetor bowl/ there is a tube that comes from it to the valve.
2. Check the voltage coming from the yellow wires that parallel the outlet from the stator to the regulator. This feed is AC from the running engine, no output with the engine stopped. The manual covers the operation and testing of the valve.
3. For the enrichment valve to work the throttle plates must be synced and completely closed at idle.
4. AS to the primer valve I wish I knew where you would hook up the feed to the engine from the valve. I think that this might be a good mod but the question as to how to hook it up, I wish I knew.
By the way the ball is not allowed in an inboard installation, but I have used one before I installed an electric fuel pump.

Where are you located? I am just finishing up with overhauling the engine in my boat after having a problem with first a bad top bearing in the engine in the one I bought and then with buying a Regal Rush doner boat for the engine, finding a scored #1 cylinder.
I also had to replace the aluminum fuel tank due to corrosion and leaks.
I am located in Navarre, FL if you are close by.
 

Blgreggjr

Cadet
Joined
Jun 8, 2019
Messages
8
Alright, so used a 22LR shell to make a brass insert for the carb bowl and tie it into the enricher. Cold start ain’t happening. Linked and sync’d all the carbs, installed screws and nuts and tossed the sheet metal tabs. Runs like the carbs are dirty but I have ultrasonic cleaned and blew out with air. Made sure all the passages were good.
Ok so for the enricher system. The newer style mod will not work. The intake is venting a specific amount of air through the enricher needed to run. Plugged off, runs like garbage. The carb flap openings were designed for this amount of vacuum leak and still work.... So, I am thinking I am going to put some older style carbs on designed for flapper choke system I can toe into the key switch. With these carbs I should be able to close the enricher hoses going into the intake.... hopefully.

Jerry, I included a pic of the “wax ball” enricher valve and will explain this thing. So there are two 3/8” ports in the intake that the hoses go to the enricher and vacuum the outside air. When the throttle flaps are closed this creates a vacuum and pulls fuel into the intake to start. Once running the enricher heats up using a heating element. In turn the wax ball inside the needle valve begins to expand and push the needle into the seat cutting off fuel enrichment. This I guess was supposed to be a step forward, but I view it as two steps back.

I did order a set a set of running carbs off eBay just now, hopefully going old school fixes our issue!
 

Blgreggjr

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Jun 8, 2019
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[No message]
 

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Blgreggjr

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Jun 8, 2019
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These are the carbs I bought. 299$. Came complete, airbox, linkages everything.
 

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roscoe

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 30, 2002
Messages
21,786
That enricher looks like an aftermarket (hobie ?? ) attempt at putting an auto choke mechanism into the game.

Never seen one like it.
 

Blgreggjr

Cadet
Joined
Jun 8, 2019
Messages
8
Yea, I just ordered those older carbs with a tried and true flapper and electric choke Solenoid. This looks like it was only made for maybe a year. It indeed is OEM though.
 

Redbarron%%

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Dec 7, 2017
Messages
479
The enrichment valve is a mercury sure start part.
What you need if you didn't get it with the carbs is an intake manifold for the choke carbs.
I have carbs and the intake from a 1993 and you might want to look into one.
There is a difference in the recirculation system between the sure start manifold and the electric choke system.
I put the enrichment valve back on the motor I built as it has worked for me when set up right.
I hope to get my motor installed in the boat in the morning and maybe have it running tomorrow.
One question might be the ignition system.
I upgraded my CDI to the late model Mercury 200 hp CDM and red stator.
My old dad used to say that when yor are certain that the carbs are the problem check the ignition one more time.
 

Blgreggjr

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Joined
Jun 8, 2019
Messages
8
Oh, your a lifesaver! I see it has a different Recirculation system as well as a spot for the electric choke. 16$ on the way. I will not be updating this thread until Friday night when I receive everything and install it. I hope you are wrong about the ignition haha.
 

Nordin

Commander
Joined
Jun 12, 2010
Messages
2,622
Just want to know , is your sport jet a 90Hp?
Interested as I have a schrapped 120Hp sport jet. Bought it with a 125Hp 1989 Force.
The seller thought he could switch the blocks as the sport jet boers are gone.
BUT it does not fit.

My has the enrich valve system and an oil pump (auto lube system).
The pump is driven from a gear at the crank shaft.
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
18,117
Thanks for the pic.
Never saw one.
But I've never worked on a Hobie either.
Remember there's a PWC site here too.
Not trying to move you to another forum but there's a couple good guys over there.
 

Redbarron%%

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Dec 7, 2017
Messages
479
You can swap the 90 and 120 hp blocks, but as I found there are early 90 engines that have 25 spline crankshafts. I think the later 1994-+ and 120s have 13 splines. I did not think that there were any bit the 13s until I got a hold of one without realizing it. I pulled it out of a 1993 Regal Rush 90 hp boat.
The main difference in the 120 ho and the 90 is that the 9o hp has a 1:1 drive ratio and the 120 has a 1.14 : 1 ratio gear drive.
I don't think that the outboard engines will fit the splines and the adapter plates are different as well, but I believe that the basic blocks are the same.
 

Nordin

Commander
Joined
Jun 12, 2010
Messages
2,622
Thanks Redbarron, I just bought the package 120Hp sport jet engine (blown) without jet LU, complete 125Hp Force OB with a working P&T.

The seller is good at welding aluminium so he repaired (welded) a Force 85Hp LU for me too.
All for about 300 dollars.

I am interested in learning more about the Force sport jet and L-drives.
Have only worked with Chrysler and Force OB.
 

Redbarron%%

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Dec 7, 2017
Messages
479
Above I mistyped 25 spline instead of 15 spline, sorry.
I don't know the driving force for the different splines on the same otherwise engines.
What a pain!
By the way I don't know if there is an outboard style mercury Sport Jet system as all I know about are the inboard jets.
 
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