96 Force 90HP No Spark

FISHVA88

Cadet
Joined
Jan 27, 2013
Messages
16
Hi All,

Some background on this motor:

Serial is OE102761
Motor has always run ok for the past two years I've had it. Never any trouble starting cold. Had some idling issues that I brought under control by adjusting the idle speed and air mixture screws earlier this year.
Noticed motor wanted to bog down this year when I gave it throttle in the water, so I went to work fixing it. Rebuilt the fuel pump and changed fuel lines. Put in new fuel filter. No change.
Rebuilt the carbs last week. New gaskets, floats adjusted fine, needles are good, cleaned and blown out with compressed air. Put back together and fired right up on the hose in the driveway. Ran for a few seconds and motor cut off. Cranked and cranked but couldn't get it to start again. Primer is working and fuel is getting to carbs. Wouldn't even start with starter fluid sprayed into carbs.
Sure enough, did a test and zero spark on all three cylinders. Brand new spark plugs this year, btw.
Noticed my rectifier was fried. Figured this was probably the issue and just installed a new one today. No change. Starter turns the flywheel just fine but won't start.
Checked kill switch and that's not the issue. New batteries this year so I don't think that could play a role.
Never have checked compression or adjusted timing, but motor has always started no problem until I rebuilt the carbs.
Could this just be a coincidence that this no spark issue shows up now, or could I have done something during the carb rebuild? Should I be looking at the stator?
Would really rather fix this thing myself but I'm very new to outboard issues. Sorry for the long read, but any help is greatly appreciated!
 

pnwboat

Rear Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2007
Messages
4,251
To completely eliminate the Kill Switch circuit, disconnect the Black/Yellow wire at the barrel connector on the motor at the wiring harness that goes to the CDMs (coil packs). If still no spark, need to check the stator windings and the magnets on the inner circumference of the flywheel. Sometimes the magnets will break and come unglued from the flywheel. To check the stator windings, disconnect the Green/White and White/Green wires that come out from under the flywheel and measure between the two wires sticking out from under the fly wheel. You should read 500 - 700 ohms. If that checks out OK, unplug the 4 pin modular connector from the top CDM. Crank the motor and check for spark on #2 and #3 plugs. If still no spark, plug the connector back in and pull the connector from the middle CDM. Cank and check for spark on #1 and #3 cylinder. Do the same with the third CDM.
 
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