Re: Adjustments to get Reverse working.
First thing would be to test the engine shift linkage. Your shifter is a bullet shaped cylinder on the front end of the prop shaft. Embedded in the housing at the front of the lower unit is the shift lever which twists to operate. This splined shaft is locked to a cam below it that has 3 detents; one for each gear. The distance from the pivot point on the cam to the detent is different for each gear. The bullet operates a sliding gear referred to as a "clutch dog" pinned to the prop shaft. The clutch dog has a saw blade looking set of gears on the front for operating F gear and a set of cogs on the rear for operating R gear. As the shift shaft is rotated it changes the pressure on the dog and as a result changes it's location along the prop shaft thus selecting the desired gear.
Start at N and wiggle the engine linkage (remote disconnected at the engine) to ensure that you are centered in N.
Paying attention to how far you move the shift lever, slowly move it to F gear and pay attention to where it is located (the distance it moved)when you feel the teeth mesh...rotate the prop while moving. In F prop will click if turned in the CW direction and lock to the engine in the CCW direction. That's the overrun clutch. The linkage should move on past that somewhat for a good tooth to tooth lock, but you will still have the over run clutch action.
Back to N with the shifter, wiggle to center and do the same for R. R has cogs and slots. The sides of both when new are vertical to each other meaning that the cogs on the clutch dog have to align perfectly with the slots in the R gear for it to go into reverse.
First, while rotating the prop, and don't shift to R without turning the prop as you slowly do it so as to not damage your shift linkage, note the position of the shift linkage when you first feel contact. Move the linkage a small additional amount and the prop should lock to the shaft in both directions. If it feels like it wants to catch and slip etc, your cogs and slots have rounded edges. This means that you have to shift all the way in to get good contact and have a reliable R gear.
On where your linkage is when you first feel R contact, and where it is when you get good solid connection....prop will not turn if shaft doesn't you have an idea as to if your cogs/slots are worn and if so how much. If however you make contact, the prop locks up right away and you can advance the linkage as far in R as you did in F then your problem is in setting up your control box to move your shifter the correct distances.
If a cog/slot problem, you need to go into the lower unit and replace the clutch dog and/or the R gear. If just a linkage problem, the brass barrels on the control cables are threaded to move up and down the cable to adjust the control to fit the engine's requirements.
Questions ask.
Mark
