Alpha one gimbal bearing housing damage

[fairshopperguy27]

Wow i feel like a complete idiot. I'm finishing up my 3.0 block swap and am at the tail end of the project. Motor is in, Today was gimbal bearing and outdrive installation day. I centered the bearing by hand and then with my bearing install tool i proceeded to smack it in. Unbeknownst to me the bearing was crooked while I'm swinging away. After realizing, I quickly removed it and found that I actually dug the bottom end of the race into the aluminum housing about halfway in. I sanded it and blended it in. My question is will the bearing outer race now spin in the housing?

 

[fairshopperguy27]

At this point the bearing is out and I'm trying to figure out how to proceed. Should I clean out the housing really well with acetone and coat the bottom with epoxy as I reinstall the bearing?

 

[Alumarine]

If you posted a picture that would help.

 

[stonyloam]

I would not use epoxy. When you have it fully seated it should be OK. It is after all a gimbal bearing, so you just need the inner bearing to turn freely in the bearing outer shell. They are pretty tough, chances are you did no damage to the bearing.

 

[fairshopperguy27]

I would not use epoxy. When you have it fully seated it should be OK. It is after all a gimbal bearing, so you just need the inner bearing to turn freely in the bearing outer shell. They are pretty tough, chances are you did no damage to the bearing.

I think your right on the epoxy. How would I ever remove it in the future for replacement? After doing some reading i guess this is a semi common mistake. I think I'll just put some loctite on the outer of the race, seat it, line it up with the coupler to near perfect and hope for the best. Lesson learned.

 

[Bondo]

I think I'll just put some loctite on the outer of the race, seat it, line it up with the coupler to near perfect and hope for the best. Lesson learned.

Ayuh,.... Right Now, how does the bearin' fit into it's hole,..??

If ya can't just push it in by hand, ya don't have a problem,....

It's a resistance fit bearin', with a resistance ring on the bearin's outer circumference,....
Basically, it's the corrugated ssteel ring, 'round the aluminum gimbel that holds the bearin' in place,....

If ya gotta Drive it in with a driver, 'n BFH, ya Don't have a problem, just install it, 'n move on,....

 

[fairshopperguy27]

No Title

If you posted a picture that would help.

 

[fairshopperguy27]

Ayuh,.... Right Now, how does the bearin' fit into it's hole,..??

If ya can't just push it in by hand, ya don't have a problem,....

It's a resistance fit bearin', with a resistance ring on the bearin's outer circumference,....
Basically, it's the corrugated ssteel ring, 'round the aluminum gimbel that holds the bearin' in place,....

If ya gotta Drive it in with a driver, 'n BFH, ya Don't have a problem, just install it, 'n move on,....

Yes still has to be driven in. Looking at it today I can line up the grooves on the outer so it sits on fresh metal in between the old grooves in the housing. Should be good. Thanks.

 

[fairshopperguy27]

I installed the new gimbal bearing today then spent about 3hrs trying to align it to the coupler. I got it somewhat close but never could get the bar to slide in smoothly. So that told me something was wrong with gimbal bearing, maybe I accidentally hit the bearing when driving it in? So I tried to remove it. Will not come out. It looks like it's trying to come out a little Cockeyed and the bearing itself seems to be being pulled at a down angle because I can see a gap which then I tap it back even and try again. Same thing over and over. I actually broke my puller on this. At this point the bearing is stuck and I'm thinking I may have to pull the motor to hit the bearing out from the backside if that's even possible. What a nightmare.

 

[Scott06]

If you haven't beat up the bearing and it turns smooth, I'd push it back in. I've had a couple couplers that don't fit the text book definition of alignment that work fine for YEARS. Unless it's way off try putting the drive on, if it isn't too bad leave her on go boating. Maybe not perfect but better than pulling the motor.

 

[fairshopperguy27]

If you haven't beat up the bearing and it turns smooth, I'd push it back in. I've had a couple couplers that don't fit the text book definition of alignment that work fine for YEARS. Unless it's way off try putting the drive on, if it isn't too bad leave her on go boating. Maybe not perfect but better than pulling the motor.

I really beat up the bearing.

 

[fairshopperguy27]

If you haven't beat up the bearing and it turns smooth, I'd push it back in. I've had a couple couplers that don't fit the text book definition of alignment that work fine for YEARS. Unless it's way off try putting the drive on, if it isn't too bad leave her on go boating. Maybe not perfect but better than pulling the motor.

I guess what I'm asking now is, can I pull the motor and hammer this thing out from the back? I believe there is a seal in there. Will I need to remove it?

 

[Scott06]

Yes you can remove the engine and beat it out but what were you using to pull it out with. An axle puller kit with a big hammer should be good enough, you must have it way cocked in there. There are some expensive pullers that I would try before pulling the engine. Wouldn't sweat the grease seal only keeps gimbal bearing grease out of the bilge if you have a permalube bearing it's useless.

 

[Scott06]

http://www.offshoremarineparts.com/926-30-00.html?gclid=CNvtp_W1v80CFQIfhgod2s0GeA

Something like this, the engine isn't that much work to pull in most boats, if you already have a set up to rig it might be cheaper. I have a friend who owns a crane and rigging business so I cheated and had him bring a crane to pull mine, hour and a half from when I started it was out, but that was cheating.

 

[fairshopperguy27]

http://www.offshoremarineparts.com/926-30-00.html?gclid=CNvtp_W1v80CFQIfhgod2s0GeA

Something like this, the engine isn't that much work to pull in most boats, if you already have a set up to rig it might be cheaper. I have a friend who owns a crane and rigging business so I cheated and had him bring a crane to pull mine, hour and a half from when I started it was out, but that was cheating.

That is the tool I have (similar) the end where you put a wrench on is stripped and the T on the end of the rod that pushes in to secure is busted off. I still have my chain hoist on the tree so I guess I'm just gonna pull the motor tomorrow. Good thing I ordered an extra gimbal bearing. I just think im gonna get the same outcome after I install the next gimbal bearing. When it's in its closest position it feels like my alignment bar hits on the bottom then if I push hard it slides in. Any up or down adjustment from there makes it worse. I literally spent 3hrs trying to align it. Went through the entire range up and down.

 

[Scott06]

We must own the same boat.

I did a 4.3 to 5.0 repower initial alignment was real close textbook grease marks on top 2/3 of alignment tool, no grease on bottom. Tried lifting the front and would loose the top marks , tried going the other way and got worse. Probably put half a tube of grease in the coupler via the alignment tool, which I think ultimately makes the tool tough to push in.

Spent 3 hours like you, scratched my head a bit, read some posts and came to the conclusion I was over thinking it. When I dressed the long block there was a bit of slop in the bellhousing to block dowl fit, so really can't be that precise. Got it to where I thought it was best pushed the drive on.

Hate to see you pull the motor but bearing must be cocked in there. Unless you have access to a 10 or 15 lb slide hammer may not have a choice. Nothing a case of beer, BFH, and some punches/ drifts won't fix, you'll get it.

 

[fairshopperguy27]

We must own the same boat.

I did a 4.3 to 5.0 repower initial alignment was real close textbook grease marks on top 2/3 of alignment tool, no grease on bottom. Tried lifting the front and would loose the top marks , tried going the other way and got worse. Probably put half a tube of grease in the coupler via the alignment tool, which I think ultimately makes the tool tough to push in.

Spent 3 hours like you, scratched my head a bit, read some posts and came to the conclusion I was over thinking it. When I dressed the long block there was a bit of slop in the bellhousing to block dowl fit, so really can't be that precise. Got it to where I thought it was best pushed the drive on.

Hate to see you pull the motor but bearing must be cocked in there. Unless you have access to a 10 or 15 lb slide hammer may not have a choice. Nothing a case of beer, BFH, and some punches/ drifts won't fix, you'll get it.

I guess its good to hear im not the only one who's had this issue. It's a 3.0 4cyl, I swapped the block. I'm more upset that I wasted $100 on the merc oem bearing. I'm just gonna get some good rest tonight and try to fix all this mess tomorrow. The motor isn't too hard to hoist out. I think that's my only pheasible option at this point. Thanks for the replies!

 

[Blueghost924]

Have you considered renting a slide hammer from Advanced Auto just to get the misaligned bearing out?

 

[fairshopperguy27]

Have you considered renting a slide hammer from Advanced Auto just to get the misaligned bearing out?

We have an Autozone, I believe they rent out tools. Do you think a slide hammer is stronger than the gimbal puller I was using?

 

[Blueghost924]

I'm not sure if it's stronger, but the blunt force of the slide hammer has jarred loose gimbal bearings for me that were frozen in. As Chris has taught me on this forum, once you use something like a slide hammer to remove the gimbal bearing...time to throw it away (again, blunt force on the bearing). But - I'm thinking at this point you just want to remove it?