Alternator wiring and Prop type

[Wexford]

Hi

Just bought a 1975 Glastron Vagabond with a OMC 190HP Ford 302 Stringer Sterndrive with select trim.

Just getting ready to do a tune up having spent last week draining 3 year old fuel, new filters cleaning the carb etc.

In the water I'm getting
Overheating at full throttle
Poor charging
Maxing out at 3200 RPM
The electric choke doesn't appear to be moving the plates when power is applied from cold.

Oh and as an added bonus while idling along ran the prop over a rock and destroyed a perfectly innocent prop that had never done anything to offend me.



I can spin the alternator by hand using the fan blades so I'm hoping I'm just looking at a loose belt. Disconnecting the main water feed to the thermostat housing reveals a 4-6 inch plume of water if I point it straight up so I am assuming the impeller is OK.

Low WOT may be very bad timing and a well pitted prop (prior to me destroying it completely)

So my questions are

Does a standard 15 spline prop work for a stringer electric shift?

Spark plugs seem to be recommended as Champion RF10 but I'm struggling to find anyone selling them, any suggestions on alternatives?

Alternator is wired as single wire see pic, is that normal?

The electric choke has good 12V to it but doesn't move, tested off the carb and it doesn't wind/unwind and open circuit so is there a special marine version of the electric choke? also its a one terminal type not the more typical 2 terminal so I'm a bit confused as to which model it is.

Any thoughts?

John

 

[Wexford]

To answer my own question about the prop, no splines.

Markings on the prop are 10449.2 and under that 2.2

bit baffled now

Apparently this is called a pin drive and I'm guessing not going to be found locally and probably expensive

 

[southkogs]

Props are expensive, but you should be able to find one HERE. Check your hub for pitch and diameter, I'm guessing it's a 14x16 (OMC part number would be 381186). You'll be in the $200 arena.

For your overheating, change the impeller ... should be done every few years anyway. BUT, also make sure you grease the swivel in the sterndrive. If that's not properly greased exhaust can help ya' overheat.

I'd have your alternator tested to see if it's doing what it's supposed to, but also check your voltage regulator.

I'd suspect the engine before the prop on the low RPM. It's possible that the prop could cause it, but that sounds too low to me.

 

[VE8EV]

OK, you already figured out the prop isn't a 15-spline. That number you gave doesn't match any OMC or Michigan Wheel number I can find but maybe there's more numbers on there? New ones are available but only in 14x14 and maybe 14x16 but used ones are cheap and plentiful on eBay.

For plugs you should use ACDelco MR43T. You can cross them to something else if you have to but most recommend using the Delcos.

The single wire alternator is not normal, it must have been used to replace the original.

If you're getting good feed from the raw water pump then maybe your loose belt is causing the overheating and the weak charging. Could also be the thermostat stuck shut.

That electric choke doesn't look right either. It could be someone put an automotive carb on there, the correct Holley carb should be a Motorcraft D3JL-9510.

Fix the prop, tune it up and see how it runs. A WOT of 3200 isn't too far off the mark, 3800-4200 is WOT spec for these old OMCs.

Let us know how you make out!

 

[VE8EV]

BTW, a contributing factor to dinging the prop is that about 2 inches of the skeg is missing on your drive...

 

[bruceb58]

O
For plugs you should use ACDelco MR43T. You can cross them to something else if you have to but most recommend using the Delcos.

That is a Ford engine so those are not the plugs he needs.

That alternator looks like an automotive alternator....not marine.

 

[VE8EV]

I think they repealed that law about using GM plugs in Ford motors. The OEM spec is Autolite ARF-32, Champion RBL8 or Delco MR43T.

Agree on the alternator though, and if that is an automotive unit it has to go.

 

[bruceb58]

I think they repealed that law about using GM plugs in Ford motors. The OEM spec is Autolite ARF-32, Champion RBL8 or Delco

Yep...you are correct. I was surprised!

 

[Wexford]

Thank you for the responses.

I'll pull the alternator tonight and try to get some identifying marks off it. 40 odd years of previous owners is showing.

Looks like pin drive props as as rare as rocking horse excrement in the great white north. May have to ship in from the lower 48.

On the hunt for ACDelco MR43T. or equivalent locally, going to do a full distributor, points, condenser, leads and coil swap out. The choke I can live with, I have cut and terminated the wire and loosened the choke adjustment so I can manually open and close the choke for the moment. Might even swap it out for a proper manual choke.

The missing skeg. Thought that looked funny but wasn't sure and it’s old enough that it could have been a funky try it out design. Any one got opinions onsomethng like http://skeggard.com/

They don’t make one for that model drive but in principle do these work?

Iboats Tune Up Kit W-Cap-Pres V8 Clip - 18-5277 - Sierra is what I'm thinking of with 18-8805-1 spark plug kit.

 

[Wexford]

I am struggling a bit to identify which impeller kit in iboats I should be looking at, Part # 09-702B-1 ?And while I am at it a new thermostat Part # 18-3677D?

 

[bruceb58]

I would see if you could find someone to repair the prop you have. Props are becoming more scarce for those. Probably going to have to look at used props.

I would give these guys a call. The are a big propeller re-builder in southern California.
http://www.wilmingtonpropeller.com/

Plugs
http://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?partnum=MR43T

 

[Wexford]

So my current shopping list is
[h=1]Your Updated Shopping Cart[/h]

Item​

Part #​

Wish List​

QTY​

Unit Price​

Total​

Remove​

​

Premium Spark Plug Wire Kit - 18-8805-1 - Sierra

18-8805-1*​

​

​

$65.99​

$65.99​

Remove​

​

Tune Up Kit W-Cap-Pres V8 Clip - 18-5277 - Sierra

18-5277*​

​

​

$39.13​

$39.13​

Remove​

​

Impeller Kit - Johnson Pump

09-702B-1*​

​

​

$20.99​

$20.99​

Remove​

​

Thermostat Kit - 18-3677D - Sierra

18-3677D*​

​

​

$22.06​

$22.06​

 

[Wexford]

http://www.propcopropellers.com/omc.htm

160 dollars plus postage and 30 seconds after I ordered and paid a local dealer called me back with a 20" pitch which I'll take just to get me on the water this weekend

 

[bruceb58]

How did you come up with needing a 20" prop and not something different? How big is your boat?

 

[VE8EV]

As if it isn't bad enough having an obsolete engine and drive you also have to be very careful buying parts because some of the application charts in the Sierra catalog are flat out incorrect for the 74-77 OMC Fords. The tune-up kit and plug wires you're looking at are correct. The impeller you want is 18-3086 and the thermostat kit is 18-3653.

iBoats has a reasonable rate for shipping to Canada. Kimpex sells Sierra in Canada and has free shipping over $100. OEM parts (what can still be had) also ships for a good price from BRP/Evinrude and their site has a complete parts list and drawings. Go to the main Evinrude page, follow the parts link to 'Shop Online' and when you get to the parts page the left hand drop down menu has a choice for 'Stern Drive' and all the info is there.

For the alternator you can either go back to the original with the external regulator or replace with a marine one-wire style. eBay is good place to look for those.

If you plan to keep this thing you WILL need a service manual (a used OEM one from eBay or the Seloc version) and a couple of litres of 'Evinrude Premium Blend' gearcase lube (#775609) or Sierra Type-C Blend (18-9620-2). That is the ONLY oil that can be put in the lower gearcase (the upper just takes regular gear oil). Watch the gear oil levels like a hawk, change it if it gets milky, and if it keeps getting milky replace the seals.

Getting the old prop fixed is a good idea. Where in Canada are you? I know a good prop place in Alberta but I think there's lots around.

One more note, I'm sure you're aware that using automobile parts on a boat is not a good idea. Whoever owned that boat before you obviously didn't know or didn't care. In addition to the alternator, make sure it still has a marine starter, distributor, and fuel pump (post pictures if you're not sure). From your previous pictures I'm already suspicious of that carb and there's a glimpse of the fuel pump that makes me think that's not original either. Auto carbs and fuel pumps can leak gas and auto starters, distributors, and alternators will make it go BOOM!

 

[Wexford]

the 20" is the only one in town and the price is right for used so I'll take it, use it, and keep it in the boat as a spare once the propco one arrives.

I went with the 16 as its a 21' old 1975 heavy Galstron Vagabond Camper that'll be mainly used to pull tubes and fish so top speed isn't that critical and I'm old enough to be past the whole "more speed, must have more speed" fun and games


.

Large Gearcase 120 thru 245 HP Pin Drive Not Thru Hub Exhaust	67 - 77	HL	Al	14 x 12	3	S21	382017	P7B $160.00
HL	AL	14 x 14	3	S22	381185
C	AL	14 x 16	3	S23	381186
C	AL	14 x 18	3	S24	381187

 

[Wexford]

One more note, I'm sure you're aware that using automobile parts on a boat is not a good idea. Whoever owned that boat before you obviously didn't know or didn't care. In addition to the alternator, make sure it still has a marine starter, distributor, and fuel pump (post pictures if you're not sure). From your previous pictures I'm already suspicious of that carb and there's a glimpse of the fuel pump that makes me think that's not original either. Auto carbs and fuel pumps can leak gas and auto starters, distributors, and alternators will make it go BOOM!

I'm getting that horrible sinking feeling............

I'll post pics of the carb and pump.
Reading http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...arine-carb-vs-auto-carb?p=1237719#post1237719
it's possible to rework a carb to marine specs?

Because I'm not in a hurry to buy a new carb on top of potentially a new alt and starter motor. From memory, I will check tonight, the starter is the same colour as the block and didn't look like it was not original even down to bolt heads looking untouched. The alternator.... I'm actually considering just buying a reman from the same dealer that has the prop while I'm at his place. My logic being that for 80-100 bucks versus wondering if the existing alternator is bad, an auto one etc etc and then having to drive back there anyway it's a small amount of money for peace of mind.

Mind you all these small and not so small amounts of money are adding up pretty dammed quick.

 

[VE8EV]

Nobody likes these old OMC stringers but if you're willing and able to do the work yourself they're not that bad. Thanks to the internet I find it easier to get parts now than it was back when mine was new.

A blue starter sounds like the original. The fuel pump should have a little sight glass screwed onto it. If it doesn't then it's probably an auto one. Sierra 18-7267 is the correct fuel pump for yours, don't let anyone try to tell you different. No comment on converting that carb, maybe yours is ok maybe not. My spare is a 190, I'll post a picture of the carb tomorrow and you can compare.

I Googled that Vagabond, it's a nice looking boat!

 

[southkogs]

I actually liked the Stringer. It had it's flaws, and it is old and likes attention but I found it had some positives too - even against my current Merc.

On the engine itself, there should be a tag somewhere (generally on the starboard side rear mounts) that will identify your engine/drive by OMC. You can use that to help you track down part numbers.

 

[Wexford]

Definitely has a sight glass on the side.

With 3 kids it was a good fit, cuddy, porta potty built in. Original seats long gone but I'll fabricate replacements, gel coat mega oxidized, **** poor gel coat touch ups, silicone everywhere so lots of grinding and repairs this winter but that's ok I can fix that assuming I can find a winter barn with heat.

Once I get the engine running smoothly, assuming that nothing major is amiss mechanically, I'll work the stern drive, not happy with the performance of the electric lift, motor barely struggles to lift the drive with boat fully charged new batteries connected and last week I had no choice but to leave engine running while lifting to get enough power to lift the drive at the ramp. I know, I know I shouldn't do that but otherwise that skeg would have been shorter still :{