Anode install question

RaceCarRich

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 31, 2015
Messages
234
2005 Bravo 3, using same Martry aluminum anode part numbers as past years. Big flat one towards the bow, the one fastened by 2 hex bolts....

I know it probably doesn’t matter but should I be concerned that it doesn’t lay flat? With the bolts in but loose it sort of sea-saws. Used a scotchbrite to clean up the area and remove any loose corrosion or dirt. Tightening bolts doesn’t help. Took it home and laid on a flat piece of 1/4” aluminum plate and the anode isn’t flat. Pressing down where the bolt holes plate are has one leg up >0.050”. Pushing that leg down pushes the opposite corner up. Seemed worse than that when putting on the drive.

I know conductivity is through the bolts and it probably doesn’t matter functionally but would you be concerned?
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
... but would you be concerned?

Nope. The molds that anodes are cast in are pretty rough, and they are not machined, so you get it as it comes. I would probably take a file to the high point and run it down, just so it doesn't stress the housing any...

And once mounted, use a multimeter to prove it's electrically connected to the housing. ;)

Chris..........
 

tpenfield

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 18, 2011
Messages
18,220
What Chris said . . .

The 'horse shoe' anodes on my Bravo3's don't lay perfectly flat. The important thing is the external tooth washers for electrical continuity.
.

ext-tooth-washer.jpg
 

RaceCarRich

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 31, 2015
Messages
234
Thanks guys! That’s what I figured but wanted a second opinion. I plan on checking continuity between various drive anodes which would confirm they are making contact with the drive.
 
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