Re: another e10 question
use the blue startron,or its equivalent at every fillup.
by the time octane loss is evident its called phase seperation.
phase seperation,even with a stabilizer can happen in as little as 2 weeks depending on physical conditions.
mostly humidity and tank vent types.
remember ethanol is hygroscopic.
hygroscopic means the ability to absorb moisture from the air.
once the ethanol is saturated it seperates from the gasoline base and settles to the bottom as a watery goo.
carbed motors get lucky as the motor simply wont run,the EFI guys ususlly break a motor cause they keep trying to run it even though its running poorly.
the base stock of E fuels are typically 8 points or so lower before blending with Ethanol due to the fact the ethanol is an octane booster until it seperates.
make sure whatever stabilizer you use contains a biocide.
bacteria can live in the water absorbed by the ethanol and feeds on the surgars in the ethanol then the dead bacteria clog filters.
kinda like the algea and bacteria found in disiel fuels.
as far as octane, the higher the octane the slower it burns for a given compression ratio.
if the engine is desined to run on 87 octane at high speeds high octane fuel can actually make less power and more carbon buildup.
we can control how much air goes into a cyl,how much fuel and when the fuel ignites.
the ONLY thing we cannot control is when the fire goes out.
at 6000 RPM we have to get the air fuel mix into the cyl,compress it,light it and the fire is mostly going out before the next intake cycle.
slow burning fuel may or may not be able to do that.
I dont like to see any E fuel used after stored 3 months or longer even if it was stabilized.
Efuels are the most expensive hoax ever shoved down the throats of americans by our govt.