Another transom rebuild thread

[Cmac2008]

Ok I'm working on the 77 champion. I need to rebuild my transom. I see tons of threads on transom rebuilds but I can't seem to answer my specific questions.
1. The chrome trim around the boat will have to come off to seperate my hull. It is pop riveted so do I just drill out the rivets and then to reapply put rivets back in it or can I use some course threaded screws. Will I be able to put the rubber strip back in the chrome trim when done?

2. What is the best way to hoist the hull apart? I'm working in a two car garage with open joist. Can I just put a couple 2x6s across the joist and lift it up that way then move the trailer to work in the hull? I'm not sure what the weight would be. I have removed the seats, fuel tank, trolling motor, batteries, all the live well lids and storage lids.

3. I'm not sure the condition of the stringers but would you recommend going ahead and replacing them while I have access?

4. What resin, plywood, and fiberglass do you recommend to use in the transom?

5. Anything else to look for or checkout while I have the boat apart?

6. Threw all my research chaos I read somthing about the hull will tend to warp when taken apart but I very vaugly remember the details. Is this just if u remove the stringers and transom at the same time? What can I do to prevent this?

 

[Woodonglass]

This should be of some help...Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms
I'd recommend you read the Sticky Section. I'm pretty sure you'll find the answers to all your questions.

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...r/295740-how-to-s-and-other-great-information

 

[Scott Danforth]

yep, read links 14, 2, 3, 4a and 4b

 

[Cmac2008]

Ok guys please chime in. I'm having a really hard time getting the cap off the hull. I removed all rivets and any type of screws and a few brass sleves that went all the way threw the stern. I then ran a putty knife under the seam all around the boat. Would there be any way the transom is actually glassed to both halves? I'm just not sure what would be holding me up

 

[jbcurt00]

Yep, glassed together at the transom.

My 60 Glastron did and also had the cap glassed to the hull all the way around the interior side of the joint, over the nut end of the thru bolts holding the rubrail channel on.........

 

[Cmac2008]

Yep, glassed together at the transom.

My 60 Glastron did and also had the cap glassed to the hull all the way around the interior side of the joint, over the nut end of the thru bolts holding the rubrail channel on.........

So what did you do to seperate it? My rub rail is off. The sides will flex but the transom will barely move and the bow is still pretty solid.

Update: I have got my corners loose. If the transom is glassed on both sides I'm hoping I can cut threw the plywood in what opening I have and maybe weaken it enough to seperate the hull. I have this stupid thing called work that always gets in my way.

Also do I need to be planning on support for the hull once I get the cap out? Can I just get the cap out and put a few ratchet straps around the hull to keep it from bowing?

 

[Cmac2008]

No Title

Ok I'm making some headway. I have found out that the inside of storage compartments are actually glassed to the deck and also the hull. so I am cutting along the inside of all compartments and then after I put my new deck down I will have to reglass. My question is will I have to reglass where the compartments are attached to the side of the hull. There are 1x's that hold the cap to the hull then glassed over but is this necessary? Does this add support to the hull or the cap or is this strictly cosemtic?

 

[Cmac2008]

No Title

Ok I posted in my rebuild thread but never got an answer I'm sure people are busy with the holidays coming up. I just need to know how to cut out this old transom. Do I cut behind each of these "steps" then slide my new transom behind? But then I would not be able to glass the entire surface of the transom. Do I need to cut each one of them back about a foot or so then rebuild them after the transom is in? The "steps do not follow the shape of the hull so that tells me these are either stringers or just dead space built to hold the fuel tank

 

[ezmobee]

I'm a tin boat guy........however, if it was me, I'd cut those boxes out so as to have full access to the whole transom. Easy enough to recreate them afterwards.

 

[Woodonglass]

It appears to me that your transom doesn't extend all the way to the sides of the boat. Correct? However it probably does extend down to the hull and that means you will need to cut back the stringers about a foot in order to have room to get to the lower portion. Easiest way to remove the old wood is to use a circular saw and set it about 1/4" less than the thickness of the wood. Then cut a series of saw kerfs about two inches apart both vertically and horizontally. You and then take a wide chisel and knock off the 2" blocks. You'll be surprised at how easily they knock off. I'm pretty sure you have all Fiberglass stringers so they'll be easy to patch back in once the new transom is installed.