another transom repair question...where to cut?

[iRich]

Hi, I recently acquired a 17' crestliner that is in good shape but the transom is spongy around the motor mounts so it has to be replaced. I am not sure if i will use sea cast or new plywood and epoxy yet but either way I'm going to get all the wood out not just the rot. My question is instead of removing the whole top of the boat I plan on cutting each side about a foot up and just removing the rear section. Then i will repair where I make the cuts at when i put it back together as i am not worried about it looking like it is fresh from the factory. it is a 1975 btw. Is there any reasons why this wont work and has anyone done it this way before? Thanks,<br /><br />Rich

 

[speed29668]

Re: another transom repair question...where to cut?

That is similar to the way I replaced mine. I simply went along the edge of the entire transom and took the fiberglass off as one big piece. Leave about a 1-1/2" margin all the way around to create a pocket. Fit your plywood back in by using two or more layers epoxied together to achive thickness and by using two separate pieces, one for the right side and one for the left. Make them meet at an angle and cut the edges so they overlap. Remember overlapping can be done because you are using multiple layers of wood on both pieces. I also created a backing plate on the inside of the transom by cutting another piece to the general shape of the inboard side of the transom. I drilled holes and counter sunk them on the outer wood of the transom and inserted bolts from the outside all the way through to the inside piece of wood. The holes for the bolts were filled in with epoxy and made flush with the rest of the plywood. Everything is still epoxied together in the normal fashion; the through-bolting is there as an extra margin of safety. The outer fiberglass is epoxied back on and the edges were grinded down and widened and fiberglassed back together. Or you can use seacast, but that is an entirely different procedure.

 

[Solittle]

Re: another transom repair question...where to cut?

A couple of years ago I had the transom replaced in my 23' Wellcraft with twin SeaDrives. They pulled the engines, cut and removed just the gunel and floor about 3' foreard of the transom. This gave complete access to the transom without having to cut the hull itself - which I did not want done. I had them uses a glass composit instead of replacing the plywood part (don't know what it is called). Worked like a charm - better and stronger than new.

 

[Bob_VT]

Re: another transom repair question...where to cut?

This is the seacast link and it has a few pictures. http://www.seawolfindustries.com/scusage1.htm <br /><br />Seems pricey but I would go with it based on the repair speed. You can do it in less than a day.<br /><br />Bob

 

[iRich]

Re: another transom repair question...where to cut?

Hi, Well I have the old transom out...it was totally rotten. I still have a little scraping to do to clean up the original fiberglass. I'm leaning toward using 3/4" pressure treated plywood doubled up to replace it with. I was seriously considering using the seacast if i didn't have to disrupt the glass but it was easier to cut some away on the inside and replace it than trying to dig all that wood out. Besides it was only one layer of glass that didn't even cover the top and ends. I think my biggest concern now is putting the top part of the boat back on ...as in how to tie it back in with the rest and make it strong. I've been taking pics and will post them somewhere if anyone is interested. Rich

 

[speed29668]

Re: another transom repair question...where to cut?

Rich,<br /><br />Go ahead and post pictures. Did you end up pulling the entire deck off?

 

[oldboat1]

Re: another transom repair question...where to cut?

I'm not sure epoxy will adhere properly to pressure treated plywood (assuming you are going to bond plywood pieces with epoxy). Maybe other listers have had some experience.<br /><br />I've had good success using the method described in the post by Speed. There are a number of refinements -- drill holes around the edge of the transom when the project is nearly finished, for example, and squirt in expanding foam. The foam fills cavities around the edge of the plywood and is added insurance that water will not wick up into the wood. (You need to treat the edges with epoxy when installing -- also to help insure that moisture will not soak in.)

 

[SCO]

Re: another transom repair question...where to cut?

I did similar to speed, but used drywall screws to epoxy pieces together then refit into the cavity then glassed (with epoxy resin) the entire transom piece to seal completely prior to reinstalling it into the boat. I also epoxied the aft skin back on prior to installing, could lay it flat on the plywood which was flat on the ground to avoid having to use screws or big clamps to attach it. My boat has a V transom, and prior to putting the transom back in, I thinly glassed the inside wall(at the eventual fwd face of the transom) to be able to hold liquid epoxy without without leaking out. After epoxying in the transom , I sealed with epoxy paste around the perimeter from the outside, then filled the entire V portion with epoxy from the inside with thin epoxy. In my case there was an 1/8 inch gap between the inside wall and the new wood transom where I could pour the epoxy in batches from the cut off bottom of a plastic coke bottle. You could see the epoxy fill level through the translucent thinly glassed inside wall, so I knew my progress as I filled, and now the entire V portion is completely encased with no voids to fill w water. The down side... took a long time and may be overkill. Can email photos if youre interested

 

[epresutti]

Re: another transom repair question...where to cut?

iRich,<br /><br />Be careful with the pressure treated stuff, when you get it, it is very wet. This can cause your transom to rot from the inside out. I would shy away from that stuff and use something that is going to absorb the resin. Doug Fir plywood is probably your best bet.<br /><br />You can also use layers of 1/4 with a layer of 3/4 oz glass between each layer til you get to your desired thickness, this creates a very strong transom and is a little easier than thicker pieces (takes more glass and resin though). Beware the pressure treated stuff, unless you are sure it is completely dry.<br /><br />Hope this helps.<br /><br />Safe boating to all.<br /><br />Cheers.<br /><br />emp.

 

[epresutti]

Re: another transom repair question...where to cut?

Fogot to mention, when I redid my transom, I used basically the same technique used by SCO, except I filled the gap first with epoxy resin mixed with a powder of fiberglass (result of the grinding on the boat, you can use any high density filler), the consistancy was like peanut butter, I completely filled the gap so that when the transom was pressed in the goop would squeeze out to fill all the voids (about 1 1/2 in. wide by 3" deep) making sure the transom seated to the correct level and also that it was squeezing the filler out of the gap.<br /><br />I used drywall screws to hold things together (like a clamp) then removed the screws and filled the holes with epoxy. If you are going to leave the screws in, you may want to consider grinding the heads off so they won't vibrate as much and potentially create a spider crack.<br /><br />Hope this helps.<br /><br />Safe boating to all.<br /><br />Cheers.<br /><br />emp.

 

[oldboat1]

Re: another transom repair question...where to cut?

I used drywall screws to hold the epoxied pieces in place, but left the screws in and went back over them with epoxy. They countersink easily into the plywood so they can be easily encased. <br /><br />Do a search or two on transom replacement or something similar, if you haven't already done so -- lots of good information.

 

[epresutti]

Re: another transom repair question...where to cut?

Oldboat1,<br /><br />I was using the screws to pull the wood tight to the inside (existing glass) and also to hold everything tight until the glass completely set. The screws were exposed on the surface on the old glass. Your right if they are countersunk and glassed over there shouldn't be a problem.<br /><br />Safe boating to all.<br /><br />Cheers.<br /><br />emp.

 

[SCO]

Re: another transom repair question...where to cut?

Actually, I was attempting to put the transom piece in like Ed did, but was using flour to thicken(works pretty well usually), and didnt make up enough of the epoxy though I think no amount would have worked with my mix as it was running out of the bottom. It was hotter epoxy(no time to do anything but proceed)and because it didn't hold like peanut butter, I had a problem. I originally put the inside skin on to hold the peanut butter consistency epoxy, and in the end it saved me when I didn't get the full thickness squeeze out bond like Ed described.

 

[iRich]

Re: another transom repair question...where to cut?

Hi, thanks for the suggestions guys, all good info. i wouldn't have even attempted this project if it wasn't for this forum. Another question I have is what do i need to do the glkass work and where is a good place to buy this stuff. I was wondering if there is anyplace online to order it and save money or just buy it at a local store. Thanks,<br /><br />Rich

 

[epresutti]

Re: another transom repair question...where to cut?

iRich,<br /><br />You can order almost everything you need from West Marine (they sell several epoxies, West Systems seems to be the most popular) http://www.westmarine.com <br /><br />I buy my stuff from Fiberglass Coatings Incorporated http://www.fgci.com . I just called their 800 number and ordered. They are based in St. Petersburgh FL, it was 3 days shipping to where I live now (Granville, OH).<br /><br />I use to live in Palm Harbor FL, I have been to their warehouse, you can walk in and buy as well.<br /><br /> They are a full supplier of boat building materials (heck you can order a 55 gallon drum of epoxy if you want, big shipping charge I would imagine). They have a full range of bulk glass and multiple types of epoxy in sizes from pints to pails to drums.<br /><br />Hope this helps.<br /><br />Safe boating to all.<br /><br />Cheers.<br /><br />emp.

 

[epresutti]

Re: another transom repair question...where to cut?

iRich,<br /><br />Sorry forgot to mention, you are going to have to measure everything, height and width of transom, etc. Decide what core your going to use and how many layers. I used 3/4 oz. between each layer and Double Bias with Mat (XM) on the outside layers, covered with 3/4 oz for a good finish.<br /><br />Mat comes in widths up to 60 in. My total transom height was less than 35" so I was able to use 38 in. mat and bias.<br /><br />You will probably use at least 3/4 gal of epoxy. Get a gallon. Accounting for waste and mistakes (not that you will make any, I didn't , right.)<br /><br />Safe boating to all.<br /><br />Cheers.<br /><br />emp.

 

[crab bait]

Re: another transom repair question...where to cut?

these guys gave good advice & are right on target.. listen close & do as they say..<br /><br />you'll have a good boat for sure.. <br /><br />just one thing.. never use 'thin epoxy' by itself without thickeners as a glue to fill gaps or a filler... it just wont work... it's not made for that.. it's too thin...

 

[iRich]

Re: another transom repair question...where to cut?

Yeah, I need to do some homework on the fibeglass stuff...never messed with it before. I need to repair a section of the floor also...I think i will pratice on that before I do the transom. I have some pics online now if anyone wants to take a look..<br /><br /> http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/irich39/lst?&.dir=/Transom+Repair+Pictures&.src=bc&.view=l <br /><br />Rich

 

[epresutti]

Re: another transom repair question...where to cut?

iRich,<br /><br />Went to your link, got file unaccessable?<br /><br />Not sure what the problem is.<br /><br />Please advise.<br /><br />Safe boating to all.<br /><br />Cheers.<br /><br />emp.

 

[iRich]

Re: another transom repair question...where to cut?

Ed, It should be okay now. I had the private button checked instead of public. <br /><br />Rich