another transom repair question...where to cut?

[Hawkeye1]

Re: another transom repair question...where to cut?

Here are 2 links for good quality epoxy at decent prices. Depending on how you do it, how much and what weight cloth you use will determin how much epoxy you will need. I think 1 gal might not be enough to do a compleat transom, even on a 17'er. I would go with the slow hardner to insure a good soak in and maximize working time. BTW, I like the 1/4" thick build up and overlap all seams way of doing a transom. I wouldn't use the treated for reasons stated above. <br /><br /> http://www.uscomposites.com/ <br /><br /> http://www.raka.com/

 

[epresutti]

Re: another transom repair question...where to cut?

iRich,<br /><br />After looking at your pictures, I agree with Hawkeye1, you may want to do the 1/4 in. buildup.<br /><br />Looks like you did a good job of cleaning it up. If you use the slow set (as recommended by Hawkeye1) you can roll out each pice of 1/4 in. and press into the goop you have put in the hole. If you transom is 1 1/2 in. you will need 6 pieces. Because of the irregular shape of the whole (meaning bumps and dips in the existing glass) you may not be able to "jam" the last piece in, this is OK, you can double, tripple the glass on the fifth piece to make up the difference.<br /><br />On my transom I actually cut out the outside glass (there are lots of oppinions that this is NOT the best thing to do), I got excellent bonds to the inside glass so it is still very strong, I also left a 3 in. grove and had a good pocket.<br /><br />Gotta run. Good luck.<br /><br />Safe boating to all.<br /><br />Cheers.<br /><br />emp.

 

[iRich]

Re: another transom repair question...where to cut?

hi, what do you mean by 6 layers of 1/4"? I was going to use 2 layers of 3/4" plywood. Also what weight cloth should i use on the inside? Thanks,<br /><br />Rich

 

[epresutti]

Re: another transom repair question...where to cut?

iRich,<br /><br />Instead of the two pieces of 3/4 (which is fine), you can use 1/4 with glass between each layer. 2 pieces of 3/4in = 1 1/2 in, 6 pieces of 1/4in = 1 1/2 in. Same thickness. Its just that you have more glass and resin in between each layer. The more layers the stronger. On my transome I used 3 pieces of 1/2in to get my 1 1/2 inches.<br /><br />Its really your choice, 3/4 will work fine. I wanted more layers (stronger). Also the resin will penetrate almost all the way through the 1/4 if you wet both sides, which you will have to do, and you wind up with an almost completely composite transom (OK, the engineers will argue there is still 1 1/2in. of wood).<br /><br />I would put a layer of glass in between your 3/4 and use thickened epoxy, you will get a very strong between the pieces, by the time you are done you will be able to hit that baby with a sledge hammer.<br /><br />I would use 3/4 oz glass.<br /><br />Hope this helps.<br /><br />Safe boating to all.<br /><br />Cheers.<br /><br />emp.

 

[iRich]

Re: another transom repair question...where to cut?

Ok, now i understand why more layers...makes sense to me. Now, did you use fiberglass mat or cloth? ! assume by 3/4 ox glass you are talking about the stranded stuff and not woven, correct? I am also replacing the rear part of the floor...stringers,(is that what they are called, run the length of the boat), are ok thank God, but the plywood about 3 feet up was rotten. Should I use the same material on the floor? Thanks for your patience,<br /><br />Rich

 

[Hawkeye1]

Re: another transom repair question...where to cut?

Some of the stranded mat is not epoxy compatable. Yes you can use the same material for the floor. I did my floor with 2 layers of 1/4 luan overlaping the seems and 1 layer of heavy 17/08 over it all. I had right much support from underneth. Came out like a concret floor.

 

[epresutti]

Re: another transom repair question...where to cut?

iRich,<br /><br />I used mat. Mat is random fiber with a binder agent. It is the binder that may not compatible with the epoxie (as suggested by hawkeye1). The binder disolves when the resin is added. Just make sure the mat you purchase is compatible with epoxy.<br /><br />I found that you can also put a piece of 3 mil plastic on a flat surface, wet out the glass, flip it over, wet out the other side to eliminate any dry areas, be careful not to go to crazy with the resin. Then roll the glass out on the piece you are working on in place.<br /><br />I used disposable 9in. foam rollers to roll it out. Make sure you have no dry glass. Very important (I say again no dry glass). Also make sure you roll all the bubbles out.<br /><br />Walmart has boxes of 100 laytex gloves (like surgical gloves) for about $8 per box, well worth it (I have gone through many pairs, once I mix a batch and roll it out, I throw away the roller, brush and gloves, makes interesting artwork if you let them all dry together). You can clean up with ascetone, I suggest using as many disposible products as possible. It is really difficult (my oppinion) to get brushes and rollers clean with ascetone ($9 per gal). Foam rollers $1.30, brushes $0.87. I also keep a "box of rags" handy, you know the thick paper kind.<br /><br />Thats about it, have fun.<br /><br />Safe boating to all.<br /><br />Cheers.<br /><br />emp.

 

[iRich]

Re: another transom repair question...where to cut?

Here's an update on my transom project. I haven't had much time to work on it this week. Tonite I bought a piece of 3/4" plywood. It wont work because my transom has a bend on both sides and 3/4 doesn't bend to well even with relief cuts. So I guess I will listen to the experts and use 1/4" X 6 layers. Ed if you are reading this, when you did yours did you put the plywood in onepiece at a time? i think that is how i will have to do it so i can form it, just wondering the best way to go about it. I did get the pieces cut for the portion of the floor I need to replace. I'm planning on epoxying both sides and all edges then putting them in place and covering with epoxy and fiberglass mat. <br /> I was goinig to use the 2-1 thin epoxy for laminating and covering the floor...will this also work for the inner transom wall that I need to rebuild or should i use the thicker epoxy? Thanks,<br /><br />Rich

 

[Hawkeye1]

Re: another transom repair question...where to cut?

use the thin stuff and thicken it with cabsoil or other thickners. You want the thin stuff the wet the glass and penatrait the wood. You using all mat worries me a little as there are very few that are epoxy compatible. not to mention they are not that heavy. The biaxles are very good and strong for there weight. Roven is about 1/2 the cost of biaxles and wuld be my 2nd choice.

 

[iRich]

Re: another transom repair question...where to cut?

Ok, I'm finally getting back to work on my transom. I am using 6 layers of 1/4" plywood. Do I need to put glass between each layer or can I just epoxy the plywood together? Also should i thicken the epoxy between layers or is it ok straight out of the can? I am using west systems epoxy. Gonna go cut the plywood now and get everything ready. thanks for any last minute tips. Hope I don't screw this up. <br />Thanks,<br /><br />Rich

 

[epresutti]

Re: another transom repair question...where to cut?

iRich,<br /><br />I did mine in pieces, I did not put the entire piece together and then put in place.<br /><br />I put a layer of glass and the first 1/2 (i used 1/2 in, I know you said your are using 1/4) in place. Used screws to pull it tight to the existing glass (make sure you have that thickened epoxy filling the gaps. I continued the process, layer of glass, thickened epoxy, plywood, etc. Until all pieces were in place then held the whole mess together with 1 1/2 in screws until it was completely set. Removed the screw and filled the holes with epoxy.<br /><br />Have all your pieces cut and ready to go, spend time with the dry fit. Once you start the glassing process you have to keep going. Watch out! Working time gets short!<br /><br />Also, as Crab Bait said above, make sure you are using thickened epoxy if you choose to not put a layer of glass between each sheet (I used thickened epoxy anyway). Rolled out the sheet onto the plywood outside of the boat on a flat surface, coated the surface with thickened epoxy and then put in place, secured with screws from the existing glass side. Using screws will be a little tricky since you are using 1/4" plywood, you want to make sure the screws don't go through the plywood and create a "standout" for next piece.<br /><br />There are a several diffent approaches you can use, like putting two pieces together at a time outside of the boat. You should just get a plan in your head. How am I going to roll out the glass, how much resin do I mix at a time, once I have it rolled out, How am I going to get it in place and make sure everything pulls up tight. Then how am I going to keep it tight until everything sets.<br /><br />Hope this helps.<br /><br />Safe boating to all.<br /><br />Cheers.<br /><br />emp.

 

[iRich]

Re: another transom repair question...where to cut?

I got the transom in place. I ended up only getting 5 pieces of 1/4" because I couldn't jam another in there. The problem in my case is that the transom is not perfectly flat across the back...it curves in a bit the las 18" or so on each end. So I put two pieces in with thickened epoxy and screwed it tight to the outer skin with drywall screws from the outside. After it set up for a couple hours I took out the screws and put three more layers in and screwed from inside to the layers already in place. I have one layer of 1 1/2 ox mat on the inside and plan on adding at leas two more, probably three to make up for not getting the last layer of plywood in. The mat is epoxy compatible. I have some 6 ox cloth too so I will probably do one final layer with that. After that the only tough part left will be putting the top back on. I cut the gunnels just froward of the splash well so I didn't have to take off the whole top. I plan to paste the edges back together with thickened epoxy and rivets and laying a couple layers of woven roving inside the gunnels at least a foot to either side of the cut. Think this will hold good or should I grind the top of the gunnels down a bit and lay a layer there also? Trying to avoid that as I have no idea how to finish the top off. Any other ideas are appreciated. Thanks,<br /><br />Rich

 

[epresutti]

Re: another transom repair question...where to cut?

iRich,<br /><br />12" overlap is fine, sounds like you have it under control. Make sure whatever you overlap is binding to is not gelcoat, but bare glass, well sanded (80 grit), this will give a very good bond. I ground off any gelcoat and paint that would be part of the overlap. Lay your glass out dry, draw a line around where it will stop and grind off all paint and gelcoat. You don't need to grind the glass down, as a matter of fact you want it to maintain it's original thickness.<br /><br />As far as finishing, sand everything smooth and then you can use epoxy mixed with fairing compound to feather out the joints (kinda like using drywall mud), sand smooth and you are ready for finishing materials, Gelcoat, paint, whatever you decide.<br /><br />Pettit makes a good product called easypoxy, 1 part goes on nice, use their undercoat as well.<br /><br />Hope this helps.<br /><br />Safe boating to all.<br /><br />Cheers.<br /><br />emp.

 

[seacast]

Re: another transom repair question...where to cut?

Please check out our website http://www.transomrepair.com. Our staff can walk you thru transom and stringer repair step by step. Seacast is a user friendly product that even the most inexperienced person can use!

 

[suzukidave]

Re: another transom repair question...where to cut?

wow, I just wanted to say this is one of the best threads on a difficult topic I've ever seen on this board. Great work guys. You should get it published.

 

[iRich]

Re: another transom repair question...where to cut?

Hi all, Here's an update on my project. she's going in the water this weekend. just got done installing the motor and fired it up...runs fine. It was a lot of work and i wouldn't want to do it again, but I sure learned alot...mostly just get in there and do it. thanks to everybody for their help and advice...every bit of it played a part in the success of this project. I will post back on sunday and let you know how she rides...Watch out fish... <br /><br />Rich