Antifoul undercoat of outdrive

bijou22

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 3, 2005
Messages
302
I have removed my outdrive on the boat for essential maintenance and have had the chance to now throughly clean all the components before replacing.
I have had the prop shot blasted and it is now like new and am going to have the drive, transom and steeering arm done also to bring the parts back to bare metal as they are in a bit of a mess.
The boat is moored in a harbour and I want to spray with Blakes Volvo grey antifoul but would I need to undercoat first with a primer of similar colour? No doubt by next year it will all need doing again.
 

Thalasso

Commander
Joined
Jan 18, 2011
Messages
2,879
Re: Antifoul undercoat of outdrive

I have removed my outdrive on the boat for essential maintenance and have had the chance to now throughly clean all the components before replacing.
I have had the prop shot blasted and it is now like new and am going to have the drive, transom and steeering arm done also to bring the parts back to bare metal as they are in a bit of a mess.
The boat is moored in a harbour and I want to spray with Blakes Volvo grey antifoul but would I need to undercoat first with a primer of similar colour? No doubt by next year it will all need doing again.

If i read your post to say you are taking your outdrive to bare metalI think you might want to go to Volvo's web sight and lookup how to repaint a bare metal outdrive. There is more to it then just slapping some primer and paint on it. There is a specfic way to etch the bare metal and how and when to apply the primer and paint. There is alot to look at when taking it to bare metal.

http://www.4shared.com/file/10726715...X-A_DPS-A.html Starting on page 9
 

bijou22

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 3, 2005
Messages
302
Re: Antifoul undercoat of outdrive

I cannot believe how many different ways/opinions there are to paint the outdrive on the net.
Some say there is no need to etch with Ali spray before priming, this was opinion of international paints UK.
They say to coat with x5 primer then x3 antifoul.
Does anyone have experience with this method. Boat will be in salt water.
 

shrew

Lieutenant
Joined
Dec 29, 2006
Messages
1,309
Re: Antifoul undercoat of outdrive

Yes, I have done it. I reviewed the manufacturers recommendation, then followed the instructions on the paint, including the recommended type of primer/paint to use and the application process on the primer and paint. What you described is pretty much how I recall it. Sanded it down to bare metal, wiped everything down with recommended solvent, then applied the recommended number of coats of primer, then paint.

I think about the only opinions you will get that will differ are those of people who discount the needed time and cost and take shortcuts. Follow manufacturers recommendations and you should be fine. This is not a time or place to try and do it on the cheap and/or easy.
 

cyclops2

Banned
Joined
Apr 19, 2011
Messages
1,237
Re: Antifoul undercoat of outdrive

Aluminum metal DOES need special primer ....AND... use the same paint company as the final coat.

No body knows or CARES if different brands will work together.

So use the SAME BRAND for primer & finish coats. You should have great results.

WARNING .....DO NOT PAINT OVER WERE THE metal sacrafical ANODES ARE screwed / bolted to the drive housing!!!!!!They must be a CLEAN BARE METAL FINISH to allow small electrical currents to be controlled correctly.
NO primer or anything else there. ....OR ON TOP OF THE Anodes. That was my last findings.
The Anodes MUST BE EXPOSED TO THE WATER......... DO NOT forget the ANODES.
 

bijou22

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 3, 2005
Messages
302
Re: Antifoul undercoat of outdrive

Thanks for help guys, gives me some confidence.
Any thoughts toward the ali etching spray or just coat in primer?

I plan to use Hempel (formally Blakes) to spray with.
 

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 25, 2004
Messages
28,145
Re: Antifoul undercoat of outdrive

Bijou, I recommend a brush-on antifouling product, like Tri-lux. The spray-on antifouling coatings never worked for me.

Tri-lux is a very good product, is made for aluminum but has specific undercoating requirements. I would follow them closely.
 

Philster

Captain
Joined
Sep 15, 2009
Messages
3,344
Re: Antifoul undercoat of outdrive

Bingo. It has to be able to work with aluminum, otherwise you will rapidly corrode the outdrive (if the paint reacts with alum and makes the alum the sacrificial metal) and it's unreversible.
 

cyclops2

Banned
Joined
Apr 19, 2011
Messages
1,237
Re: Antifoul undercoat of outdrive

You ARE GOING TO prevent the Blast Grit from getting into the water intakes ???????
And not go into a speedometer hole. If there is one ?? Be carefull about ANYTHING getting into those holes. Including primer or paint.

BE EXTREMELY CAREFULL to make sure you cover those openings. Blast grit into the water pickup could be damaging.
I would stand right next to the guy when he is blasting.
You may have to plug the speedo pickup hole with a metal rod piece. Make sure you use a long enough piece. DO NOT put in a so short a piece that it slides out of sight when tapped ... LIGHTLY..in place. Leave enough sticking out for a good vice grip to twist it out.
removing the water pickup slotted piece & cutting a piece of 1/16" or thicker plate the same shape with screw holes only is a very good thing to do. Put 3 layers of tape on the bottom of the plate to act as a gasket. The piece of metal CAN BE PLYWOOD. 1/8" or thicker. Make sure the guy is REALLY experienced on stern drives.
No one I know has ever had their drive blasted.

Tell us what type of drive you are blasting in case it needs special care.
 

Thalasso

Commander
Joined
Jan 18, 2011
Messages
2,879
Re: Antifoul undercoat of outdrive

If i read your post to say you are taking your outdrive to bare metalI think you might want to go to Volvo's web sight and lookup how to repaint a bare metal outdrive. There is more to it then just slapping some primer and paint on it. There is a specfic way to etch the bare metal and how and when to apply the primer and paint. There is alot to look at when taking it to bare metal.

http://www.4shared.com/file/10726715...X-A_DPS-A.html Starting on page 9

Read this. It tells you the proper way

" Edit " Link is not working, but here it is, right from volvo

Remove all loose paint and corrosion by sanding or sandblasting.
If sandblasting, use an aluminum oxide blasting media with a
particulate size of 0.008-0.028 in. (0.2-0.7 mm).
3. Remove all trace of grease and wash with hot water and
detergent. Roughen all painted surfaces with medium 3M
Scotchbrite pad. Rinse thoroughly with water.
4. Treat any bare aluminum with chromate conversion coating. Clean
the entire area with an acid cleaner that does not contain fluoride,
such as DuPont5717. Scrub the surface with 3M Scotchbrite pad
until it is completely “wetted” with no beads of water.
NOTICE! Fluoride in a cleaner causes a “smut” (dark
discoloration on silicon-alloy aluminum castings), and
paint will not stick to “smut”. If this happens, sand the
surface and start over using a different acid cleaner.
NOTICE! Do not use steel wool. Small pieces of steel wool
become embedded in the aluminum and will cause
severe corrosion.
5. Rinse thoroughly with water. The area must appear “wetted” or the
surface is not clean, and paint will not adhere.
6. While the surface is still wet from rinsing, treat all bare aluminum
with DuPont226S chromate conversion solution. Brush the
chromate solution as required for 2 to 5 minutes to prevent it from
drying on the surface. Rinse the surface thoroughly with water and
allow to air dry. Follow the label instructions exactly.
— If the chromate is allowed to dry anywhere on the bare aluminum
surface, chromic acid salts will form which will prevent
paint adhesion and promote corrosion. Sand the surface to
bare metal.
— It is best to let the part air dry, but if you must wipe the surface
to speed up drying, use lint free wipes not treated with anything
that may contaminate the surface. Do not scrub the surface,
wipe very lightly.
— Do not blow dry with shop air unless it is completely free of
dirt, oil, and water.
— Do not heat the part above 150?F, before painting.
— Do not touch the treated surface with bare bands before painting.
— The part should be primed soon after it dries, or at least within
24 hours.
7. Where the prime coat is thin or where the surface is unpainted,
prime with Volvo Penta Primer or PPG epoxy primer. Do not apply
primer over hard finish coat. Primer solvents must be allowed time
to evaporate and the primer must harden before applying the
finish coat. Allow 8 to 12 hours drying time.
8. Apply finish coat. The parts catalogs list numbers for finishing
products.
 
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