Antifreeze. -50F or -100F degree?

joe_nj

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jun 14, 2009
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1. What are the arguments for using -100 antifreeze instead of -50? Last year, my first winterizing experience, I used -100 probably because I saw a posting that said to. I can't find anything now. -50 RV-Marine is $4 at Walmart. -100 is $10 at West marine. Is it a waste to use the -100 in NJ where the temps never go below -10F? The sticky by Don S. says to use a 50/50 antifreeze mix which sounds like -50 to me (judging by the mixing instructions on the label on the -100 bottle.)
 

Bondo

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Re: Antifreeze. -50F or -100F degree?

Ayuh,... Drain it, Dry,.... No need at All for Antifreeze...
 

scipper77

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Re: Antifreeze. -50F or -100F degree?

The sticky by Don S. says to use a 50/50 antifreeze mix which sounds like -50 to me (judging by the mixing instructions on the label on the -100 bottle.)

Really? I can assure you that Don does not endorse leaving "the block" full of anything. Are we talking about a raw water cooling system or closed cooling?

Read the sticky again.

EDIT: I read the sticky and Don does talk about using 50/50 mix. I guess I shouldn't have spoken for Don.

He will be along to clear things up soon.
 

stonyloam

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Re: Antifreeze. -50F or -100F degree?

I believe Don's 50/50 recommendation is for automotive antifreeze in the coolant side of a closed system, for optimal freeze protection and cooling efficiency.
 

scipper77

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Re: Antifreeze. -50F or -100F degree?

I believe Don's 50/50 recommendation is for automotive antifreeze in the coolant side of a closed system, for optimal freeze protection and cooling efficiency.

Me too, but since I don't have closed cooling I don't think I need to be giving out any more advice in this thread.
 

justchange

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Re: Antifreeze. -50F or -100F degree?

As mentioned above. If you have a closed system use a 50/50 mix of antifreeze.

If it's a "raw water" system, you should drain it and if possible, blow compressed air thru it to make sure it's empty. ;)
 

Bondo

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Re: Antifreeze. -50F or -100F degree?

If it's a "raw water" system, you should drain it and if possible, blow compressed air thru it to make sure it's empty.

Ayuh,... I keep seeing That,...
But really,...
Properly done, Gravity does all the work,...
Blowing it out would/ should have absolutely No effect, or help in any way...
 

justchange

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Re: Antifreeze. -50F or -100F degree?

Ayuh,... I keep seeing That,...
But really,...
Properly done, Gravity does all the work,...
Blowing it out would/ should have absolutely No effect, or help in any way...



Nope, it doesn't. Except to make sure it's empty.:p
 

jkust

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Re: Antifreeze. -50F or -100F degree?

Here in Minnesota where we do actually reach -50 and your -10 in NJ is what we call a heat wave, antifreeze in the block is not used. I'ts just not done. (It was 30 degrees this morning already.)
Boating for 37 years in MN where everyone owns a boat and in fact we have more boat owners than anywhere, I've never, ever come across the use of antifreeze in a block. My point is don't waste your money.
 

joe_nj

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Re: Antifreeze. -50F or -100F degree?

I am referring to the engine block, in case that wasn't clear. I've only owned the boat for a year and while it does seem to be overkill to go to all the trouble of removing all the hoses from the 4.3L Merc and draining all the water then refilling with antifreeze. What's left to stop from freezing? nothing. Even if a few ounces of water remain, I don't see how they could expand enough on freezing to crack a block. The compressed air idea seems like overkill too. Wouldn't the air just blow right over a few ounces of water lying at the bottom of a hose? i see that someone else has started a post on the topic of add antifreeze or just drain and blow. Have to see what's going on over there.

2. Having just removed my outdrive 15 hours running time ago, I don't want to remove it again now but I don't know how likely it is that water still remains in the outdrive or whether I should be concerned.
 

ChrisCraftJohnny

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Re: Antifreeze. -50F or -100F degree?

There are many thoughts on winterizing an I/O setup.

I too was very concerned last year. Here in Mass. we get decent winters. So I went for the -100 stuff. Because water that is left inside the engine will dilute the -100. (more on this later)

I really do understand that air does not freeze. And even if you have a trace amount of water in the block after draining and disconnecting the main water hoses, i.e. water pump hoses etc. etc. that the remaining water should be negligible and unable to crack the block.

HOWEVER, I have removed many auto engines. And no matter how much you drain, blow compressed air, tilt, and say prayers to "Bondo" the god of gravity(old MST3K reference - nothing to do with Bondo on here)

There will still be 1-2 gallons of coolant/water that spill all over the shop floor when the engine is set down on the floor. You just can't drain it all out. The water hides in the nooks and crannies of the water jackets around the clyinders and such and will only come out when the engine is set onthe floor at an angle. (junk engine laying on uneven oil pan)

And even then, how much is still in there????

With that being said, for my taste, I use the -100 poured down all the hoses after the engine and all it's hoses have been drained. To me, it's low-cost insurance. I used 4 gallons last year and poured until full and I alsosaw blue coming out of the transom plate exhaust holes.

Had zero problems in the spring. One more thing. If you are going to do this method, unbolt the T-stat housing and remove the T-stat. This ensures access to many water jackets. Pour -100 down the inlet and it doesn't hurt to crank it over a few times to suck the antifreeze thru the system. Just disable the ignition so the engine won't start blowing all the antifreeze outof the block.

My 2 cents.

Johnny
 

Bluestream

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Re: Antifreeze. -50F or -100F degree?

Here in Minnesota where we do actually reach -50 and your -10 in NJ is what we call a heat wave, antifreeze in the block is not used. I'ts just not done. (It was 30 degrees this morning already.)
Boating for 37 years in MN where everyone owns a boat and in fact we have more boat owners than anywhere, I've never, ever come across the use of antifreeze in a block. My point is don't waste your money.



I have to agree. I have never seen anti-freeze put in any block my a marina, or an individual in over 35 years of boating in Canada. And I have never seen a cracked block either. The drains are at the lowests point on the block, and the few drops of water left in there do nothing.
 

zbnutcase

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Re: Antifreeze. -50F or -100F degree?

Yup anti-freeze is a total waste of money and time. And the reason car motors dribble out on the shop floor is because nobody ever removes the block drains-if it has any(quite a few newer car engines dont) or you cant get to them.
 
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Re: Antifreeze. -50F or -100F degree?

I was wonding same thing,,,,ok so that i have this clear yall saying i should drain engine and trim and say no to anti-freeze?
 

truckermatt

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Re: Antifreeze. -50F or -100F degree?

my dealer just drains the block when winterizing... but there are some other that do add a/f here in WI.... but i prefer the drain it method... its worked for me that lat few years..... and my block hasnt cracked or rusted away...
 

sethjon

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692
Re: Antifreeze. -50F or -100F degree?

1. What are the arguments for using -100 antifreeze instead of -50? Last year, my first winterizing experience, I used -100 probably because I saw a posting that said to. I can't find anything now. -50 RV-Marine is $4 at Walmart. -100 is $10 at West marine. Is it a waste to use the -100 in NJ where the temps never go below -10F? The sticky by Don S. says to use a 50/50 antifreeze mix which sounds like -50 to me (judging by the mixing instructions on the label on the -100 bottle.)


Listen to Don. He da man.
 

Bondo

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Re: Antifreeze. -50F or -100F degree?

HOWEVER, I have removed many auto engines.
There will still be 1-2 gallons of coolant/water that spill all over the shop floor when the engine is set down on the floor. You just can't drain it all out. The water hides in the nooks and crannies of the water jackets around the clyinders and such and will only come out when the engine is set onthe floor at an angle. (junk engine laying on uneven oil pan)

Ayuh,... Like Zb said,... That's only because you drained the Radiator,...

Not the Block...

A properly drained block will hold back no more than a couple of tablespoons of water...
That little, frozen Solid, poses absolutely No Risk, at All...
 

Simoniz

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Dec 30, 2007
Messages
242
Re: Antifreeze. -50F or -100F degree?

My boat has been out of the water on blocks for 3 or 4 Berlin winters now when the temperature gets down to -20C (-10F) and in the month of January the temperature often stays below freezing for the entire month, night and day.

Ive only ever drained the block and manifold using the Merc drain hoses, not used antifreeze or compressed air and its been fine.

Theres also a point on the exhaust system just forward of where the bellows attatch to the transom where I think water collects, and theres no easy way of getting that out. Thing is though, its only a couple of spoonfulls siting in the bottom 10% of a circular section pipe so even if it freezes, it will just expand upwards and do no harm.
 
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