Re: Antifreeze. -50F or -100F degree?
There are many thoughts on winterizing an I/O setup.
I too was very concerned last year. Here in Mass. we get decent winters. So I went for the -100 stuff. Because water that is left inside the engine will dilute the -100. (more on this later)
I really do understand that air does not freeze. And even if you have a trace amount of water in the block after draining and disconnecting the main water hoses, i.e. water pump hoses etc. etc. that the remaining water should be negligible and unable to crack the block.
HOWEVER, I have removed many auto engines. And no matter how much you drain, blow compressed air, tilt, and say prayers to "Bondo" the god of gravity(old MST3K reference - nothing to do with Bondo on here)
There will still be 1-2 gallons of coolant/water that spill all over the shop floor when the engine is set down on the floor. You just can't drain it all out. The water hides in the nooks and crannies of the water jackets around the clyinders and such and will only come out when the engine is set onthe floor at an angle. (junk engine laying on uneven oil pan)
And even then, how much is still in there????
With that being said, for my taste, I use the -100 poured down all the hoses after the engine and all it's hoses have been drained. To me, it's low-cost insurance. I used 4 gallons last year and poured until full and I alsosaw blue coming out of the transom plate exhaust holes.
Had zero problems in the spring. One more thing. If you are going to do this method, unbolt the T-stat housing and remove the T-stat. This ensures access to many water jackets. Pour -100 down the inlet and it doesn't hurt to crank it over a few times to suck the antifreeze thru the system. Just disable the ignition so the engine won't start blowing all the antifreeze outof the block.
My 2 cents.
Johnny