Any advice for motorcycle mechanic doing outboards?

[braindead0]

I've been working on motorcycle, car, chainsaw..etc engines for over 20 years.. Just got my first 'newer' outboard (1989 25HP Evinrude).<br /><br />Long story short, I didn't know about the prime feature (push ignition switch in) and so I turned the electric primer to the manual position thinking it was a fuel shutoff valve. The engine started up pretty quick after I did that, so I figured "yup, must've been". It's amazing that it ran pretty good, spent a half day running it around a lake.. but it wouldn't idle very well ;-).<br /><br />So, now that I've read the repair manual cover to cover (and discovered that little tidbit). Are there any other things a motorcycle mechanic should watch out for? <br /><br />I was ready to rebuild the carb..thinking dirty idle circuit, hole in float.. stuck float.. etc ;-)

 

[ZmOz]

Re: Any advice for motorcycle mechanic doing outboards?

Look around at all the posts about Seafoam. Get yourself a can and spray it through the engine. There's a pretty good chance it will fix your problem, and if not it will still clean it out nice.

 

[braindead0]

Re: Any advice for motorcycle mechanic doing outboards?

Already did the seafoam thing, been using it for years on motorcycles ;-).<br /><br />I'm fairly certain my idle troubles are entirely due to having the electric primer in the manual override position, any fuel pressure behind it would push fuel/oil directly into the cylinder heads (not good when warmed up).<br /><br />I'll be firing it up in a test tank today, properly ;-).. I think the guy I bought it from mentioned the 'push in the ignition' thing, but heck he thought it was supposed to run 50-1 on the fuel/oil.. according to the repair manual that's only for the first 5 hours.... then it's 100-1.

 

[digimortal777]

Re: Any advice for motorcycle mechanic doing outboards?

nevermind what that manual says<br />run 50-1 if you want that thing to last

 

[braindead0]

Re: Any advice for motorcycle mechanic doing outboards?

Well, the worst thing 50-1 can do is cause a change of plugs earlier than necessary.... Probably suck a few ponies outta the engine as well.<br /><br />That being said, 100-1 seems to be the usual for many 2-cycle engines these days... with the better lubricants we have, there shouldn't be any problem with it.. Otherwise everybody would still be mixing 10-1 or worst ;-)

 

[ob]

Re: Any advice for motorcycle mechanic doing outboards?

The primer solenoid assy is only used for cold start.It has a constant fuel source leading to it that is allowed to pass directly into the intake chamber bypassing the carbs when the igntion switch is pushed in.The red lever is a manual cold start means and is used if the electrical solenoid is malfuntioning.It's normal "run" position as you have already discoverd is end facing aft in line with the body of the solenoid. 50:1 is your normal mix for that engine . 100:1 is far too lean and will cause your engine to starve for lubrication and lead to its early demise.

 

[braindead0]

Re: Any advice for motorcycle mechanic doing outboards?

Thanks for the confirmation on the electric primer, and yup.. I had the lever pointed fore... <br /><br />After a quick google on groups, it does seem that most people use 50:1 even when the manual suggest 100:1.. So I'll go that route, and not have to cut pints in half (6 gal tanks) ;-)<br /><br />Thanks.

 

[jim dozier]

Re: Any advice for motorcycle mechanic doing outboards?

When the time comes (and its when not if) don't use EZ-outs. Get good with a torch and a steady hand for drilling out busted bolts.

 

[braindead0]

Re: Any advice for motorcycle mechanic doing outboards?

don't use EZ-outs

?? Why not? I can see concerns about messed up threads on critical bolts, but I've used EZ-outs (and the like) on motorcycle engines for years. Same kind of issues I'd think being aluminum with steel bolts.<br /><br />Just curious as to why?

 

[jim dozier]

Re: Any advice for motorcycle mechanic doing outboards?

The grip of corrosion on bolts in marine environment engines is a wonder to behold. If you use EZ-outs (I speak from unfortuneate personal experience ) they will break and then you will have the delight of trying to remove a flush metal piece harder than your drill bit surrounded by metal softer than the item you are trying to remove. <br /><br />PS this is why they invented Dremel Moto tools with carbide tile cutters .

 

[braindead0]

Re: Any advice for motorcycle mechanic doing outboards?

Well, as I'm not dealing with salt-water.. and I've used ez-outs on motorcycles that have been sitting in the weather and rusting for 10+years without too much trouble..<br /><br />I've found that using a torque wrench on the ez-outs can keep you from breaking them.. assuming you can figure the right amount of torque.<br /><br />I agree that they don't work on everything, and many times heat/penetrant/other methods are required. But EZ-outs used properly work great.

 

[BillP]

Re: Any advice for motorcycle mechanic doing outboards?

OMC did 100:1 oil for a few years(80s)and changed back to 50:1. One of their warranty managers told me the only reason for the change was to prevent corrosion during short term storage of a couple months. 100:1 motors were coming back with that problem and 50:1 motors not coming back. He said the 100:1 ratio still had a huge safety margin for engine wear. He also told me to use 100:1 only if I ran the motor every couple of weeks.

 

[braindead0]

Re: Any advice for motorcycle mechanic doing outboards?

Now that's an interesting take, and make sense. I've run 100:1 in many 2-cycle engines for years of off-road abuse and never had any problems related to excessive wear.<br /><br />I'll probably try 50:1 and keep an eye on the sparkies.. It's getting close to winter, but I'll be fogging and storing the motor in the garage.. Figure that's a good time to replace the impeller, check the thermostat and give it a good once over (plug wires, wires in general..etc).

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Any advice for motorcycle mechanic doing outboards?

hello <br /> I agree with jimd. I bill 45 an hour to drill and tap. helicoils are 15 extra. bring it to me with a broken tap or a broken easy out and its 150 a hole. the problem with the easy out is when the corrosion has the fastener welded in place then you drill a hole into it stick a tapered rod(easy out) in it and smack it with a hammer it just expanded the bolt and forever married them to the aluminium threads. better use careful heat and silikroil and most will come out <br />good luck