Any way to make a choke adjustment?

[iggyw1]

Hi guys,

I reported last week that I rebuilt my carb on my 1991, 6 H.P. Evinrude, model E6REIA. It runs like a new motor as it has been running for the past week, with one exception. It absolutely will not start when cold when I first launch my boat. I looked at the choke, and the flapper (or whatever it is called) is slightly opened when I pull the choke knob all the way out. I know it is not good to do, but I have to give it a shot of starting fluid (ether) just a split nano-second , like PSST - and that is it, and it will start right up and run forever. I can shut it off for an hour and it will start up again with no choke and run and troll forever. I trolled for 5 -1/2 hours today, and not even a sneeze or cough from the motor. No type of hesitation when I give her the throttle. Runs perfect.

Another thing to note, after it is warmed up and running, even at a slow idle speed for trolling, I can close the choke. It will not stall out, but it is richer. I know this as it smokes a lot when I do this. If the choke was closing all the way like it should, wouldn't the motor stall out when I close the choke when the motor is warmed up?

I added that note because I feel that the only problem I am having now is that the choke is not 100% closing. I do not see any way to adjust the choke so it will close all the way closed. It is open at the bottom a bit, and I think it should not be. How can I adjust it? Thanks for any input.

 

[TrueNorthist]

Well, I have bent choke linkages to deal with slack due to worn plastic fittings, but I suspect the idle circuit needs cleaning. Root causes and all that.

 

[iggyw1]

Well, I have bent choke linkages to deal with slack due to worn plastic fittings, but I suspect the idle circuit needs cleaning. Root causes and all that.

The carb was rebuilt and cleaned (soaked in a solvent overnight) a week ago and also last year. Nothing is plugged. I am 100% sure of this. I know it's a choke problem. I just did not know how to make any adjustments on it. I will try to bend the choke linkage on the motor. I was going to try that but I did not know if it was a good idea or not, but since you tried it & apparently it worked or you would not be recommending that I do it, it may be just what I have to do. Thanks.

 

[oldboat1]

Is the choke knob grommet in place? If broken or missing, that would affect the travel of the choke knob, if that's related.

 

[iggyw1]

Is the choke knob grommet in place? If broken or missing, that would affect the travel of the choke knob, if that's related.

Thanks for the tip on what to check, but yes, the grommet is in place and in good condition. I actually believe it is strictly a choke problem, but I may be wrong. The next time I go to start the motor, I am going to cover the opening of the carburator with my hand to be sure it is 100% closed, and see if the motor starts on one or two pulls that way. Right now, I can pull the cord 15 times and it does not start. I give it one split second of starting fluid into the air box, (thru a small hole that is manufactured into the front of it), and it starts up on a half of pull, and runs like new the rest of the day, whether or not I shut it off for awhile. Runs like a top. Trolls 4-5 hours straight at a low, low idle. When I open the throttle to move, no hesitation at all.

I will also try to straighten out the choke linkage rod or make a longer one if necessary if that is going to help close that choke flapper all the way. The choke flapper is staying open a bit at the bottom when I close it. I am thinking it should be closing all the way so there is no opening at the bottom at all, correct???

 

[TrueNorthist]

The choke valve should rotate enough to lightly seat across the bore at slightly less than 90 degrees, forcing all airflow through the hole(s) in the valve plate at full choke.

So yes that's correct. :encouragement:

 

[iggyw1]

Just removed the recoil assembly then the air box on my motor so I can take a better look at things again. Found that when I pull the choke knob all the way out, the flapper is closing 100%. I then let go of the knob to pull start the engine, and the knob is going partially back in on it's own slightly, and thereby opens the choke a bit. I was unaware of this before. I don't know what is making it go back in a bit, but I will hold it out in place the next time I start it, and if that makes a difference, I will order a new knob and new grommet and HOPE that holds the choke all the way closed like it should, that is unless it is easy to hold the knob out with one hand and start it with my other hand at the same time. Thanks again guys for your input.

 

[TrueNorthist]

My old Johnson 6hp ('78) had a similar tendency to bump the choke knob in a bit whilst yoinking on the starter, as did my later model 8hp European built Evinrude. Appears the powerhead mounts allowed just enough movement to cause this and I dealt with it by monkeying with linkages. I often wondered if new mounts might fix?

 

[iggyw1]

FINAL UPDATED POST: I went out yesterday on the lake, and I held my choke knob out with my left hand while I pulled the starting rope with my right hand, (found choke was partially opening when I released the knob previously), and the motor ALMOST started on the first pull, and did start on the second pull, then ran perfect for four hours of trolling again, so it was definately a choke flapper (or plate or whatever it is called) problem. I did not use any starting fluid yesterday when I tried this, and it worked!! I know starting fluid is not good for any motor anyway.