aq125a volvopenta

[mike - Joanne]

Heating up. I have replaced the following. Pickup tube, impeller, exhausted manifold,thermostat and cap.

 

[dennis461]

when does it heat up. If you sit at the dock with engine idling, does it heat up?

 

[jerryjerry05]

No Title

The next thing is the heat exchanger core.
Volvo calls it an insert. #5 in the pic.
It's inside the antifreeze reservoir.
Volvo wants 1200$
Cobe Marine in Pasadena, Md.
He'd have one if anyone does.
This unit has an oil cooler. The end of the cooler can get clogged.
Did you loose any vanes off the impeller?
They could get stuck in the end of the cooler line?

 

[mike - Joanne]

Only when I put power to it.

 

[captmello]

Your info is vague. How about a paragraph explaining when and how its behaving,

 

[dennis461]

Only when I put power to it.

OK, do you have a drain fitting in the copper tube going to the exhaust manifold.

 

[jerryjerry05]

I should have added: you can remove the heat exchanger and have it back flushed or dipped.
Find a good radiator repair shop.
The dip process can actually cause damage if left in too long.

Dennis, what are you trying to ask? The copper tube has a drain plug on the 125A
He says the manifold is new.

 

[dennis461]

I should have added: you can remove the heat exchanger and have it back flushed or dipped.

Dennis, what are you trying to ask? The copper tube has a drain plug on the 125A
He says the manifold is new.

MOST have them, someone may have altered his setup. He did not post pics.
I try and help out in short steps, why give out a bunch of suggestions if the poster give ups and moves on?

My 131C gave me problems for years, turned out to be a worn brass pump letting the water recirculate around the impeller ends.
I was surprised to learn that 0.020 was too much clearance on the face of the pump.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Yup the cam plate wearing out can cause a problem.
Not very often does that happen.
Usually motors with high hours or a boat used in shallow water.
Also the cover or the housing of the pump can be worn and not pump right.

 

[mike - Joanne]

OK, do you have a drain fitting in the copper tube going to the exhaust manifold.

Sorry for taking a long time to get back to you we had a problem with my sign on. I do have a copper drain plug but its a new exhaust maniflold. I had the heat exchanger look at by a marina they ran water though it told me it look good. It only heats up when i get up on plane. I thinking am picking up air someplace on the out drive just not sure where. When i replaced the pickup tube i didnt replace the hose that could be it.

 

[captmello]

When you say pick up tube, do you mean the elbow the the hose attaches to, or do you mean the pivot tube that is beneath the elbow.

 

[dennis461]

Sorry for taking a long time to get back to you we had a problem with my sign on. I do have a copper drain plug but its a new exhaust maniflold. I had the heat exchanger look at by a marina they ran water though it told me it look good. It only heats up when i get up on plane. I thinking am picking up air someplace on the out drive just not sure where. When i replaced the pickup tube i didnt replace the hose that could be it.

Please read my posts carefully, do you have a drain plug in the copper tube starboard side of the engine?, I don't give a sh about the heat exchanger, that is not your problem.

 

[mike - Joanne]

the hose that's attach to the out drive than to the tube coming of transom.

 

[mike - Joanne]

I do have a drain plug. I had that off when I replaced the Exhaust manifold it was clear.

 

[dennis461]

I'll try one more time.
Do you have a drain plug in the copper tube on the starboard side of the engine. NOT THE HEAT EXCHANGER

remove it and replace with this.
http://images.orgill.com/200x200/1995927.jpg
connect CLEAR flexible tubing to the nipple.
run the tubing down low in the bilge, then up over the transom.
The tubing has to stay low forming a trap.
The end over the transom stays open, no plug.

With the boat in the water, engine running the water level in the tube should be about even with the middle of the exhaust manifold.
Rev the engine in neutral, the water level should climb.
Running at high RPM, the water should make it up above the transom.

Now, take it for a spin and have someone watch the water level.
Slowly increase speed up to plane, then onto plane.

If water level goes down, slow the boat down you have a water delivery problem.
If water level stops going up, but does not go down and does not make it over the transom, you have blockage, which I doubt.

Check your raw water pump for this.

 

[mike - Joanne]

OK I Will Try This Weekend . Thanks I will let you know

 

[dennis461]

To test the leg for leaks;
Inside the boat, disconnect the rubber hose from the copper tube.
Make an adapter and connect a 6-10 foot piece of garden hose to the rubber hose.
Prop the garden hose up about 5 feet above the stern.
The top end of the garden hose , attach a funnel or half a plastic soda bottle .
Make this a leak tight connection.
At the leg, duct tape the water inlet slots
Plug the 1/2 hole in the bottom of the leg.

Now our water into the funnel until the garden hose is full of water.
If your system is water tight, the duct tape will give out.
Look for water leaking.
If all is well, the funnel won't lose any water.

 

[jerryjerry05]

You can't "look" into a heat exchanger and pronounce it good!
If it's partially clogged it will overheat at higher rpm,s not lower.
Take the pump apart and take some pics of the cover(both sides) and the inside.
While the pumps off, take a hose and back flush the system.
Before you turn on the water, tape the pickup on the drive, making sure to cover the 1/2in hole on the bottom of the drive.
Make sure the drives dry as the tape won't stick if wet at all.
Turn the water on slow.Then check for leaks in the system.