AQ130D no start after head gasket replacement.

[jmaxj]

So my boat was running good other then the head gasket was bad. So I parked it and tore it apart, replaced head gasket now it won't start. It's got fuel and spark what else am I missing? I've been searching for the last few hours with no answers, hopefully you guys can help. I'd like to get this boat running good so I can restore it. Oh it's a '76 General marine ranger with the 130D/280 if that info is needed. Thanks in advance.

 

[glenn property of pam]

go back to basics. what did you have to remove and what could have been missed when it was put back together. I presume you didn't pull the distributor but you would have had to pull all of the spark plug leads so maybe that's worth checking against a the manual. Maybe something you had to unplug because it was in your way and it hasn't been plugged back in. etc

 

[Maclin]

Did you have to readjust the valve lash? Have you done a compression check?

 

[jmaxj]

Glenn...I went back to basics and went through everything. Only thing that was removed was the temp sender wire and 4 plug wires which were numbered just to make sure they went back right. Spent an hour going through all the wiring just to double check. Maclin.....I did not have to adjust valve lash and I have not done a compression check. Should I? Like I said it ran just fine when I had it out last except for water mixing into oil which turned out to be head gasket. Now it don't work at all.

 

[Maclin]

I mentioned compression check to see if maybe valves were not set according to spec and not seating all the way. Theoretically if you did not have to remove the pushrods, or if you did then put them back in the same holes the lash probably would not change. Sometimes newer gaskets are thicker and that could change the valve lash settings, though not by very much.

When it is cranking over does it seem to be an even rotation? With resistance and no free-wheeling like the plugs are out? Have you verified that the distributor is turning (with cap off verify rotor turns) ? Sounds like you have a feel for this type of work, I am just trying to come at it from different angles in case you are too "close" to the problem

 

[jmaxj]

How would I check to see if the valves are in spec? I did remove them one by one and lay them out and reinstalled in reverse order, but may have did it backwards I guess. And now that you mention it, it seems to be cranking kind of freely. The starter is a lot louder than it used to be, kinda sounds like it's spinning faster really. Yup distributor cap off rotor turns. I kind of have a feel for engine work, I usually can do minor stuff. I'm mostly a drivetrain guy tho, I build rockcrawlers and have done head gaskets on jeep motors with success that's why I decided to tackle the boat. I'd love to have this running good so I can restore it and get back into fishing.

 

[glenn property of pam]

the engine is a basic straight 4 so the valves are set by counting to 9. Turn engine over with a socket (remove plugs makes it easier) then when lifter 1 is down lifter 8 is up and should be set. if lifter 6 is down 3 is up (so it always adds to 9).
I do not know the feller gauge setting for your engine. web seems to say 0.020 gap between the lifter and valve on the one that's up.

 

[PiratePast40]

From the manual:

~Adjusting the valve clearance
The valve clearance can be adjusted satisfactorily
with the engine stationary, irrespective of whether the
engine is cold or hot. The clearance is the same for
both the inlet and exhaust valves. When adjusting,
use two feeler gauges, one ”Go” 0.50 mm (0.020")
thick and the other ”No-Go” 0.55 mm (0.022") thick.
The clearance is adjusted so that the thinnest gauge
can be inserted easily while the thicker one must not
enter.
4-CYL. ENGINE: When the piston in No. 1 cylinder is
at top dead centre (the compression stroke), valves
Nos. 1, 2, 3 and 5 (counted from the front) are adjusted,
and with the piston in the No. 4 cylinder at top
dead centre, valves Nos. 4, 6, 7 and 8.

Firing order is 1,3,4,2 and the distributor rotor turns counterclockwise.

 

[jmaxj]

Thanks guys for all your help, I adjusted the valves and reset timing this morning and it runs! But there's a new problem of it shooting oil out of the oil trap(i think it's called) so I'm guessing it's blow by. Maybe this motor is more worn out than I thought and the boat won't be hitting the water anytime soon. Time to do more research I guess.

 

[PiratePast40]

Glad to hear you got it running. Once you get it warmed up, you'll be able to do a compression test and get a better idea of the engines overall health. Might plan on changing the oil and then doing a run under load and then check for any water in the oil. It's better to know right away if you have a more serious problem.

I've seen several of those cast iron heads with cracks from the valve guide all the way to the valve seat. If that's the case, that may be the reason for the blow by. If needed, those engines aren't terribly difficult to rebuild. Just that it takes some research to make sure you have the right parts for the engine serial number.

There are some of us here that have undertaken full rebuilds on these older boats and engines. There quickly comes a point where the boat will never be worth the money you put into it. That's not necessarily a bad thing, just be prepared to go into it with your eyes open.