Aq280 rebuild

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Chevyboi001

Cadet
Joined
Jul 8, 2015
Messages
29
First off thanks for looking. Now I had my boat out 21 bayliner. Quick history I tore the bellow on water first time out when I bought the boat. Didn't inspect pds bearing or anything guy said ran great. Well I took on water sank tha back half, destroyed the flywheel housing. I tore the boat all apart rebuilt the engine all new bellows hoses and manifold. New flywheel housing sourced used. Brand new shaft and pds already installed. Boat ran great after some minor tuning and props. Now I didn't touch the outdrive. Changed the oil it looked good called it and that. Ujoints seemed fine no play left those alone too. Now out on the water temp started to climb on plane. Took it out and ran home put it one the muffs found out I have a leak and the collar for the water pipe in the outdrive. No biggie I ordered the kit. No upon removal of the outdrive I found oil and water mix in drive oil, and water oil mix in ujoint bellow. As well as a busted ujoint bellow. ? Now I'm looking at resealing the outdrive and installing new bellows. I'm not a Volvo penta mechanic I'm a auto tech. How or what could have caused a year in a brand new vp bellow? Also I'm reading that if I have to change the collar on the yoke seal I'll have to re-shim gear box. That's what scares me. What are the chances I mic the new collar and the collar mic the same. Or I polish the crap out of mine if it's rusty? I don't feel comfortable reshiming. Also I'm gonna do the ujoints all gaskets and bellows.
 
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Chevyboi001

Cadet
Joined
Jul 8, 2015
Messages
29
Also is the pds bearing removable without pulling engine back out. Since there was water contamination I would love to see how it looks replace if needed and get all old grease out. And does anybody know what I need to do to put a zirc fitting on the flywheel housing so I can stay on top of grease.
 
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PiratePast40

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Mar 21, 2009
Messages
1,734
Welcome to the forum. I can answer a few of your questions. Removal of the PDS will depend on the engine. The four cylinder engines have a single bearing that can be removed from the rear. Larger engines have two bearings so the engine must be pulled to remove them.

Sounds like you're on track with the water neck fitting replacement. It's a common corrosion issue.

No idea why a new bellows would go bad in a year. Did you position the clamp screws according to what the manual says? If not, one may have gotten in the way and torn the bellows. other than that, no idea why the bellows tore unless it was old to start with.

For a grease zerk on the flywheel cover, just remove the grease cup and find a zerk that will fit. This should be SAE threads. Just remember to fill the chamber with grease before reinstalling the new bearing(s). That will make sure you have grease to the bearing on the first few pumps of the grease gun. The aft seal on the flywheel housing is for keeping water out, not for keeping grease in, so the fingers face outward. That way, if you over grease the bearings, it has a place to go instead of pushing on the seal.

For the shaft seal on the upper gearbox, From what I remember, you are correct in that you must reshim if the seal face is too corroded and you replace the washer. I got lucky on mine and it was just the o-ring.

You said that you were going to reseal the whole drive. Might be a good idea to do a pressure test first to try to identify additional leakers. Resealing the prop shaft is quite a bit of work and may not be necessary. Remember to do pressure and leakdown tests on the drive before you refill it with oil.

Good luck.
 
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Chevyboi001

Cadet
Joined
Jul 8, 2015
Messages
29
PiratePast40 said:
Welcome to the forum. I can answer a few of your questions. Removal of the PDS will depend on the engine. The four cylinder engines have a single bearing that can be removed from the rear. Larger engines have two bearings so the engine must be pulled to remove them.

Sounds like you're on track with the water neck fitting replacement. It's a common corrosion issue.

No idea why a new bellows would go bad in a year. Did you position the clamp screws according to what the manual says? If not, one may have gotten in the way and torn the bellows. other than that, no idea why the bellows tore unless it was old to start with.

For a grease zerk on the flywheel cover, just remove the grease cup and find a zerk that will fit. This should be SAE threads. Just remember to fill the chamber with grease before reinstalling the new bearing(s). That will make sure you have grease to the bearing on the first few pumps of the grease gun. The aft seal on the flywheel housing is for keeping water out, not for keeping grease in, so the fingers face outward. That way, if you over grease the bearings, it has a place to go instead of pushing on the seal.

For the shaft seal on the upper gearbox, From what I remember, you are correct in that you must reshim if the seal face is too corroded and you replace the washer. I got lucky on mine and it was just the o-ring.

You said that you were going to reseal the whole drive. Might be a good idea to do a pressure test first to try to identify additional leakers. Resealing the prop shaft is quite a bit of work and may not be necessary. Remember to do pressure and leakdown tests on the drive before you refill it with oil.

Good luck.
Click to expand...

That's the thing I pressure tested the drive it held. Then I started reading about vacuum testing and how I should have done that? The lower unit is brand new I still have receipt from last owner in the boat. But I do think they ever touched the upper which I believe is my cause for water in oil mix. It's not a lot of water just a lil might not be more than condensation be me and this boat don't have good track record so getting done one last time. I'm pretty sure I got this down pack will post update. And thanks for the help.
 
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