Areas most likely to break on Chrysler outboards

[WinnerCougar74]

I have a 1974 Chrysler 135hp outboard. I'm thinking about stock piling parts to keep it running if anything breaks. What areas on these motors tends to break? Ignition, cooling, lower end. I have already bought up some gaskets because after you take something apart on these old motors the gaskets and seals are shot. Some things are maintenance items like fuel pump and spark plugs. Seems like one of the most vulnerable areas is the distributor. Amazing the distributor cap is no longer made by anyone and no alternatives.

 

[Nordin]

I would suggest you to collect for spare are CDI module, preamp if you have the electronic distributor.
CDI Electronics still have the CDI module and the preamp, but they are not cheap.
But you can convert to regular auto style ignition system if you have a points distributor.
A LU is good to have. The fuel pump diaphragm are the same as the later Force and I think it will be able to get this for another 10-15 years.
Some different props also is a good thing to collect.

 

[MrMarty51]

Good topic.
usually the old stuff I have I collect as much as I can before it all disappears. Engines and components, especially electricals and for sure gaskets.
one fine example is the 1959 Dodge W100 Power Wagon with the Poly head 318 V8. I have a shed full of used, and, some even wore out components for that old beast.

 

[WinnerCougar74]

My motor has the points distributor. Since I am so cheap I would probably go with and auto ignition conversion if my current CDI unit died. There is likely a thread on iBoats on how to do that. What about the distributor. They seem to run $150-$200 used and are hard to find. Actually more importantly the distributor cap. That little carbon center seems like it could wear out or get lost real easy then the engine is done. Seems like some little things could do in these engines just because of no parts being available.
The powerheads seem real solid including the pistons, connecting rods and cranks as long as you use good quality gas and oil @ 50-1. Even the reeds, carbs and fuel side seems solid. I consider the fuel pump as a maintenance item.
My guess is the lower end is solid. If I ever need new of anything it would be better to just replace the whole lower end. What year & HP will fit my 1974 135hp?
Anybody use AT-205 reseal to keep their old seals in good shape on the lower end?
Is there a parts list for the 1974? All I can find stops at 1976 on Mercury parts online.

 

[Tassie 1]

I would agree with finding as many ignition parts as you can,
" we " have had around 10 chryslers over the years and without doubt the number one ( in our experience ) cause of grief was ignition issues,

We only had ONE mechanical failure...a 120 hp...but that also took forever to source 2nd hand ignition parts,

I'm a little wary of the aftermarket 'conversions'...having done one,
It failed after about 6 excursions on the water...brand new parts as well.
it's still laying where it fell,
6 months ago

 

[MrMarty51]

Me not being familiar with what the Chrysler distributor would look like, i do have a suggestion.
i also have a 1978 MG-B Roadster with the 4 cylinder British MG engine.
one day the ignition system failed, electronic distributor.
I did some scrounging and found a large body GM HEI distributor from a Cadillac engine, CCW looking down on tje rotor. I machined the housing down to fit the bore in the MG block and drove the bushing from the lower portion and drove it into the sawed off end of the distributor. I also scrounged a large body HEI from a cast iron Dude four cylinder and robbed the shaft and advance mechanism from that distributor. Sawed off the cadillac shaft to match the MG dist shaft and lined everything up and drilled the shaft for the MG drive gear. Put it all together using the four cylinder pickup coil and star wheel and that MG now has a GM HEI ignition system that I will always be able to walk into the parts store and buy components for it. Sure woke up them dead spark plugs too.
It might be such a thing that something similar could be done to Your Chrysler Distributor too.
oh yeah, it uses the four cylinder GM distributor cap and rotor too.

 

[WinnerCougar74]

Hmm, very interesting idea on the automotive distributor swap. I wonder if anyone has tried it already.

 

[MrMarty51]

Did a search to see what these distributors look like. Got into ebay, there is a distributor housing in there and some other components, a distributor cap for 100 bucks.
could not tell in the pic what the diameter of the distributors shaft housing is, just to compare it to car type distributors. See if there is something of a automotive application that could be machined down.

 

[Nordin]

Buying a whole spare engine is the best way in my opinion.
I am in Sweden Europe but I think it would be a lot of Chrysler spare engines in the US.
Many parts from the 3 cylinders fits the 4 cylinders from 1966 and up until early 90.es.

Electric parts are the same except the distributor. CD modules, points, preamp, rectifier and stator fits both 3 and 4 cylinder.
In late 70.es or early 80.es Chrysler change from battery feed CD ignition with distributor (Motorola and Delta brand) to magneto driven CDI igniton without distributor (Prestolite brand).

LU fits from 3 cylinders on 4 cylinders and vice versa, but in 1978 or 79 the LU went from 2 piece gear case to 1 piece.

The bore was the same for the 3 and 4 cylinders 3,312 in except for the 135Hp, 140Hp and the 150Hp racing.
Those had 3,375 in bore. The 115Hp 1978-80 also had 3,375 in bore.

Soo many parts are interchangeable.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Like Nordins last post suggested.
Buy as many motors as you can get.
The lower units: replacing any gears needs special tools.

 

[WinnerCougar74]

That's what I thought.

I guess I'll just stick with my plan to have a kicker motor so when the Chrysler dies I'm not stuck out in the middle of the lake needing a tow. Probably a great plan. Good for skinny water and trolling too. These big motors don't like idling around. Already got the bracket. $110 on Amazon. It's the 25hp version so it's heavier duty. Really nice. Can't wait to get it all installed. Gonna add some kind of nice latch to hold it safely in place while trailering.