Bad Stator?

[JLRos]

Hi everyone. I got a doubt, i have a 1985 Johnson 150 V6, (J150TLCOS), that have been troubles when i shift gears high on water, it idles just fine but when i hit the the handle it feels like losing power and if i don't retract the handle it dies, eventually i can put the boat on plane and run fine, all this never happens when i first start the engine and start running, always after i stop to fish and later decide to go other place. Since the fuel pump was leaking i put a new one and installed almost all fuel hoses new, including the primer bulb, so now there's not leak. Already tried to hit the choke when it happens with no change.

Then i turned my attention to electric, battery wasn't charging correctly although i cant say it was discharging much. Checked rectifier/regulator cables not damaged, checked Ohms and no lecture both ways (well only 1 on my digital voltmeter) on the 2 yellows and red, only the purple gave me lecture (???) that's after checking standard procedure in this website and many other plus YouTube.Then i decide to check Clymers manual and a it says that for my model and all '84 on models with rectifier/regulator, is recommended to use a ammeter connected between the red cable of the rectifier and the stater solenoid, start the engine and check the flow of amps. haven't done it since my voltmeter on run 10amps max. 1rst question: would it make a difference? considering my previous Ohm lecture?

Tachometer haven't stop working

Then i decide to check the Stator resistance. Yellow to ground gave me 1 on high ohms, then both yellows on low ohms setting gave me 0.7, very far from the 1.2 to 1.4 that the Clymers manual recommend for a 1985 150hp.

Convinced I'll need both parts i went to google, search J150TLCOS, and first two finds were marineengine and boats both web places offer schematics and a list of parts and thats when i went confuse because they offer two stators one 9Amps and other 35Amps.

Since i don't know which kind my engine have, should I trust the stator resistance compared to clymers value?, after all they only gave one value on manual.
Should different Amp output would change resistance values?
If my present stator is 9amps instead of 35amps, it is possible that my ohm value is right?

It'll be a pleasure if i don't have to spend money on a new stator, suddenly a rectifier seems cheap.

 

[Bosunsmate]

Do a spark test on each cylinder, check it jumps a 7/16 gap

 

[emdsapmgr]

You will find some excellent ignition troubleshooting info at this website: cdielectronics.com. They have cranking voltages for the stator and the timer base. Those measurements work fine to determine condition of these expensive parts. You will need a special "peak-reading" voltmeter, however-as a normal household voltmeter won't measure correctly. You may well have a weak ignition component. They like to work when they are cool-after just starting. Once the engine heats up to normal operating temps, they can start various failure routines. If a running engine stops, it just further heats up-increasing the heat on any weak component. So. when doing your testing, make sure the engine is well warmed up. Sitting in the driveway running on the garden hose may keep it too cool for any good measurements. Your engine has the 35 amp alternator if it has the vented flywheel. Usually these are found on the 150S models. Those are the XP/GT models. Yours may be the 9 amp version. The battery charging system is separate from the ignition system. Focus on the ignition side first.