Battery Capacitance Discharge ignition system?

RDJuhl

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 5, 2010
Messages
121
Hi,

I am trying to track down an intermittent spark issue. Can someone tell me if this motor has what is called: Battery Capacitance Discharge ignition system?

Motor: 1973 Johnson 85 HP 4 Cylinder
Model: 85393M

Thanks
 

Faztbullet

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 2, 2008
Messages
15,931
Re: Battery Capacitance Discharge ignition system?

On this model there are several items that can cause problems. If the stator has any leakage replace it and test rectifier and replace battery if a maintenance free one. The other item is timer base sensor air gap. CDI has a tool to reset these as the inner magnets do weaken over time. Last is the pack and coils. Coils with cracked insulation can cause a "buck" or spike feed back to pack and damage the clamping diode internally. This can cause pack pack not to fire a cylinder/s.
 

RDJuhl

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 5, 2010
Messages
121
Re: Battery Capacitance Discharge ignition system?

"replace battery if a maintenance free one."

My battery is only about one year old...it is a Mastercraft Marine Class 24, marine cranking = 575, cold cranking = 460, and reserve = 70
I have seen other references that we should be using a battery with the removable vents to add water.

Is this what you mean? If I replace this battery, should I go up to a larger size to turn over this 85HP 4 cyl engine?
 

seahorse5

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jan 24, 2002
Messages
4,698
Re: Battery Capacitance Discharge ignition system?

You need a cold crank battery spec of at least 600CCA, 800CCA is better.

The 1973 motors use a magneto powered (not battery powered) CD ignition and the motor has to spin over fast enough to generate the power for the ignition and for the individual timing sensors.

The ignition was called MagFlash back then.

Just to be sure that you have a 1973 model, each cylinder has its own individual coil, right? A battery CD system used on the earlier motors had only 1 coil and a distributor cap underneath the flywheel.
 

RDJuhl

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 5, 2010
Messages
121
Re: Battery Capacitance Discharge ignition system?

Just to be sure that you have a 1973 model, each cylinder has its own individual coil, right? A battery CD system used on the earlier motors had only 1 coil and a distributor cap underneath the flywheel.

Yes, I have 4 coils, one for each cylinder. Thanks for the clarification.
Looks like I will have to try a larger battery.
Thanks for the help.
 

Joe Reeves

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
Re: Battery Capacitance Discharge ignition system?

Model number 85393M is a 1973 85hp Evinrude, NOT a Johnson. A Johnson would have a model number of 85ESL73.

The Battery Capacitance Discharge ignition system existed from 1968 to 1972.

The Magneto Capacitance Discharge Ignition system came into being in 1971 on the 50hp model and was widely incorporated on the higher horsepower engines starting in 1973. This exists to this day to my knowledge. This is your ignition system.

You state you have an "intermitent" spark problem, BUT you do not explain exactly what this intermitent problem is..... cranking, starting, break up underway?

This type ignition has a stator under the flywheel that delivers approximately 300 AC volts to the powerpack in order to energize the ignition. The engine must crank over at least 300 rpm in order to provide this voltage. Anything less = weak, erratic, or no spark/ignition.

Closely inspect the stator under the flywheel. There are two large coils that provide the 300 AC volts to the powerpack, one at the very front of the stator and one at the very rear portion of the stator. If there is a sticky looking substance dripping down from the stator upon the timer base and/or powerhead, the stator is failing and cannot provide the needed voltage to the powerpack, in which case, replace the stator.

Spark plugs should be Champion QL77JC4 plugs, gapped at .040 (original recommended gap) or .030 (recommended at some point in the 1990s). Try both settings and compare performance.

Slow cranking engine? With a good known fully charged battery and good known jumper cables, run jumper cables directly from the battery to the electric starter. If you now have a proper cranking engine, you have a voltage drop in the cables/wires somewhere.... remove and clean all cables and wires associated with the starting system, including the battery terminals, solenoid cables and wires, the ground at the powerhead, everything. Also clean the components that the cables/wires attach to.

If there is no change in the cranking rpm when you use the jumper cables directly to the starter, suspect a failing starter.... remove, dismantle, and repair/replace it.

Let us know what you find.
 
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