Bearing question

[Mark42]

I have to put new front wheel axles on my tractor. The tractor uses a sleeve style bushing in the front wheels. I hate bushings on front wheels, especially on a tractor this heavy because they cause axle wear, even when kept greased.

When I noticed the sleeve bearing was wearing away the axle, I replaced the sleeve bearings with a pair of these common light equipment ball bearings (3/4" x 1-3/8") and kept them greased well. But alas after a few years, they had catastrophic failure. Having the axle worn flat on the bottom probably aggravated the situation. Cost = less than $2.00 each.

Now doing a little research I find these "Heavy Duty" wheel bearings:

The description is:

Item# ST-215-267
HEAVY-DUTY WHEEL BEARING - 3/4"ID X 1 3/8" OD
HEAVY-DUTY WHEEL BEARING
REPLACES AFTERMARKET PART(S): EDGEWATER 089210 GREEN LINE 16222 MOW MORE IB-34 ROTARY 7869
SPECS: ID: 3/4" OD: 1 3/8" Height: 1 5/32" Universal

The big difference (besides being wider and Heavy Duty) is it looks like this bearing has no inner race and rides directly on the axle. Cost = $5.00 each.

Think I can use these in place of the thinner cheaper ones at the top if I also replace the axles at the same time?

 

[ob]

Re: Bearing question

If you have a bearing supply house(preferably industrial supplier)you can supply the demensions of the axle shaft and outer race o.d. and they can equip you with a heavier load rated (sealed)ball bearing .Not a (shielded) or open type like pictured above.Dirt and moisture intrusion is the #1 enemy of a roller or ball bearing.Second is misalignmet or improper application.

Does your axle setup on your tractor incorporate lip seals for the above bearings?My thought was not,since you are replacing bushings that were original.

If you decide to use the wider ones mentioned above ,the shaft would have to be size to size and concentric or failure will soon insue.The there's the issue of it not being sealed.

 

[Mark42]

Re: Bearing question

Simple dust shield on back side, and rubber end cup on exposed side. Wheel/bearing assembly held on with circle clip on end of axle.

The bearings I used are common in wheel barrows but I may have them overloaded on the tractor.

Especially seeing as I tow the boat around with it too. LOL! And when the lawn gets cut, the tractor runs for 3 or more hours at a clip, so they do get a real workout.

Actually, I'm surprised the bearings lasted as long as they did. But at less than $2 each, I can afford to put on new ones each year....

 

[RPJS]

Re: Bearing question

Talk to your bearing supplier about twin row sperical roller bearings.
If as you say there are no shaft seals on the wheel hub you will need to get fully sealed bearings, the bearing number should be followed by the suffix 2RS, twin roller bearings often have a lubrication grove cut into them, unless your application has facility to grease via an external nipple you should ask for pre greased without the grove.
It's worth paying a few extra $ and fit a good quality bearing.

 

[Mark42]

Re: Bearing question

Thanks for the info guys. Yes, there is a built in grease fitting on the rim that I have been using to keep it all lubed up.

I'll look around for a bearing supplier in the local yellow pages.

 

[Reel Poor]

Re: Bearing question

Here is a company who would have any kind of bearing, or access to it, that you might need. It comes up as an ERROR, when it does just click on "location" and type in your zip code to find the nearest location to you.

Click Here

 

[tommays]

Re: Bearing question

Stick with #1 you would need a real heat treated axel to go with #2 and your current one will eat them right up


Tommays

 

[Major Woods]

Re: Bearing question

I'm a Quality Engineer at a bearing manufacturing plant.

Stick with the original bushings or continue with the $2.00 ball bearing and change out when needed.

 

[Mark42]

Re: Bearing question

After reading everyone's comments, it sounds to me as though I should just stay with the existing bearings.

I think the bearings failed before because the bottom of the axle was worn off by the sleeve bearing and that caused undue stess on the bearing causing it to fail. The bearings that failed were also used previously to being installed on the tractor. So who knows what the real cause was.

I'm going to order fresh axles/spindle assemblies for both sides, and install fresh bearings all around. Pump it up with grease and keep an eye on things.

Some things are just not worth spending the time and effort to make the way I want it. I'm sure this will work fine.

I still think sleeve bushings are a very bad idea on a tractor's front wheels.