Bell housing repair possible?

Kauaiboy206

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I'm in the process of swapping out my mc-1 bell housing due to corrosion on the water pump port just waiting on the kit to arrive. Is the old one even worth keeping for a back up? Is this somehow repairable?
 

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Bondo

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Is the old one even worth keeping for a back up?

Welcome Aboard,... Nope, not really, a buck or 2 in scrap,...
 

Kauaiboy206

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Welcome Aboard,... Nope, not really, a buck or 2 in scrap,...

Ahhhh such a bummer, I was hoping that somehow it could be filled & machined over since it's only surface corrosion "just don't hold the rubber o-ring in place" . Thanks, hopefully that hinge tool get by quicker, in the mean time I guess I can do a coolant flush & oil change.
 

flipbro

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I'm not sure on an MC1 but a half inch Allen wrench works to remove the hinge pins on an alpha 1.
 

Kauaiboy206

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I'm not sure on an MC1 but a half inch Allen wrench works to remove the hinge pins on an alpha 1.
Didn't get the chance to check it out yet, but I'll try that today atleast I can get the bell housing off if poasible from the alpha 1 & hopefully ready for the transplant on the mc-1 horseshoe gimbal collar.
 

Kauaiboy206

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Welcome Aboard,... Nope, not really, a buck or 2 in scrap,...

Is it possible to perform a compression test without the outdrive installed? Can I simply run a garden hose into the port hole?
 

Bondo

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Is it possible to perform a compression test without the outdrive installed? Can I simply run a garden hose into the port hole?

Ayuh,... Yer not gonna start it, but just roll it over on the starter,...
With the drive off, the impeller ain't turnin',...
So,... No reason to feed water to it, at All,....

As for fixin' the corroded junk, you'll have more into the repair, than you can buy another used unit for,...
 

Bt Doctur

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The MC1 is held in place by solid round stock retained by SS nails. TheAlpha is held in place by threaded hinge pins. not a direct replacement
 

Kauaiboy206

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Ayuh,... Yer not gonna start it, but just roll it over on the starter,...
With the drive off, the impeller ain't turnin',...
So,... No reason to feed water to it, at All,....

As for fixin' the corroded junk, you'll have more into the repair, than you can buy another used unit for,...

Got the reading, 1 & 2 got 120, #3 got 119 #4 got 119-118ish. Are they good reading? Is a follow up test necessary?
 

Kauaiboy206

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The MC1 is held in place by solid round stock retained by SS nails. TheAlpha is held in place by threaded hinge pins. not a direct replacement

Ohh man that means I'd have to install the entire alpha 1 transom & gimbal assembly? The donor did not come with the opposite transom plate, will my mc-1 work? Or do I need to obtain the alpha 1 plate?
 

Kauaiboy206

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Got the reading, 1 & 2 got 120, #3 got 119 #4 got 119-118ish. Are they good reading? Is a follow up test necessary?

Squirted a little bit of motor oil into each cylinder and re-test. #1 came up to 125 #2 up 122 #3 remained at 118 #4 came up to 122.
 

duped

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Ohh man that means I'd have to install the entire alpha 1 transom & gimbal assembly? The donor did not come with the opposite transom plate, will my mc-1 work? Or do I need to obtain the alpha 1 plate?

Why not just buy a good used MC-1 bellhousing and hit the water, if that's all that's wrong with the current set up??? I've bought several for $50-75 on eBay. It would cost you way more time and money to fit your Alpha donor parts on there. Once you start talking about swapping the transom plates, the engine has to come out, and then the list of "while you're in there" stuff just keeps growing. Not to mention parts you need to buy to complete the swap. Been there, done it. I would have rather been out on the lake.
 

Kauaiboy206

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Why not just buy a good used MC-1 bellhousing and hit the water, if that's all that's wrong with the current set up??? I've bought several for $50-75 on eBay. It would cost you way more time and money to fit your Alpha donor parts on there. Once you start talking about swapping the transom plates, the engine has to come out, and then the list of "while you're in there" stuff just keeps growing. Not to mention parts you need to buy to complete the swap. Been there, done it. I would have rather been out on the lake.

Would have loved to find prices like that, But I got a killer deal on the alpha one.
 

achris

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The MC1 is held in place by solid round stock retained by SS nails. TheAlpha is held in place by threaded hinge pins. not a direct replacement

Look at his pictures. The MC-1 is the later (post about 1976) with the senders mounted on the gimbal ring. DIRECT swap for the Alpha One.... Infact, what I would have done is pull the complete MC-1 transom assembly off and put the Alpha One unit on. The MC-1 (later model) inner transom plate should bolt straight up to the Alpha One outer... Everything else remains the same....

Chris.....
 

Kauaiboy206

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Look at his pictures. The MC-1 is the later (post about 1976) with the senders mounted on the gimbal ring. DIRECT swap for the Alpha One.... Infact, what I would have done is pull the complete MC-1 transom assembly off and put the Alpha One unit on. The MC-1 (later model) inner transom plate should bolt straight up to the Alpha One outer... Everything else remains the same....

Chris.....

Haven't had the chance to work on the outdrive yet due to constant ran here in seattle. That is exactly what I'm hoping for if that's the case, although I was really trying to avoid as much work as possible due to lack of knowledge, I guess I'll have to eventually swap the entire mc-1 assembly and replace it with the alpha 1 assembly I purchased. Question is, will those xd trim cyLinder work? They seemed bulkier and longer than the mc-1.
 

Kauaiboy206

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Well that's a score then' thanks a bunch for the feedback! Kudos to Mr.Bondo & Achris, once this Northwest rain starts to go away, I can eventually start working on the outdrive & motor. In the mean time, my hands are full from restoring the seats, removing old wires &
 

Kauaiboy206

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Don't know if it's a good or a bad thing, but it turned out that the port hole just needed a good Ole scrubbing and a little diggin and was all good. All that build up were for sure it's corrosion but it cleaned up prior to removing the entire set up. A LITTLE GREASE and the rubber o-ring were perfectly fine =/ oh well I've got my self a back. Anyways now that I've got the entire engine & outdrive serviced, plugs changed, n?w solenoid & ignitor, the boat doesn't wanna start. Confirmed I've got spark on all four cylinder, battery charged & gas in tank. So here lies my next dilemma; like I mentioned on my other post, 1-4 cylinder got a pressure reading of 120-135 although I think #3 has 118, did it twice and we're consistent on both reading. It cranks well but it just don't wanna turn over. Sometimes the carb makes this air purge noise, but nothing. Sometimes it almost turn over then not. I may have poured too much oil, a little over the full line, so I might end up realeasing some tommorow.
When I changed the oil, it was a little dark but no signs of water nor it was milky. Not sure how to check if gas is getting fed, but it's wet when I look down the carb. Flooded carb maybe?
 
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