Hello,
The auto-switch on the forward bilge stopped working so I thought I would replace it along with the pump. I installed the pump/switch but noticed my hot wire that runs back to the battery (I have 2, one goes to the battery and the other to a switch on the console) was not providing juice. I troubleshot back to a 3 amp E-T-A (482-G212-K1M1-A1S0) breaker which sits inline between the battery and the bilge switch. I tested the two poles on the breaker with a continuity tester and didn't get a reading so I believe the breaker is bad (with the breaker pushed in or out). Looking online, I found the same breaker at a few places but they want $49 for it. Where as similar, non ETA branded breakers run $3 to $4 at other places (such as Grainger). My questions are have you ever seen breaker go bad? Do I really need to spend $49 for the same breaker that the boat manufacture used or would a similar breaker from a different manufacture be ok? Any ideas why the ETA's are so expensive?
Thanks
Tim
The auto-switch on the forward bilge stopped working so I thought I would replace it along with the pump. I installed the pump/switch but noticed my hot wire that runs back to the battery (I have 2, one goes to the battery and the other to a switch on the console) was not providing juice. I troubleshot back to a 3 amp E-T-A (482-G212-K1M1-A1S0) breaker which sits inline between the battery and the bilge switch. I tested the two poles on the breaker with a continuity tester and didn't get a reading so I believe the breaker is bad (with the breaker pushed in or out). Looking online, I found the same breaker at a few places but they want $49 for it. Where as similar, non ETA branded breakers run $3 to $4 at other places (such as Grainger). My questions are have you ever seen breaker go bad? Do I really need to spend $49 for the same breaker that the boat manufacture used or would a similar breaker from a different manufacture be ok? Any ideas why the ETA's are so expensive?
Thanks
Tim
