Bimini top

Dustballs

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 26, 2018
Messages
38
I got a free Bimini top from a friend that’s not wide enough to sit on the gunwale. The Bimini top is 5ft and the width where I would install is a little more than 6ft.

Im looking for ideas to install on my boat, if anyone has done this before, please share.

Thanks.
 

wahlejim

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 23, 2015
Messages
884
IMHO by the time you spend time modifying, fabricating, and fastening a small bimini, you can just buy the correct size. Consider storage of the narrow top. They usually rest at the rear of the boat and it would pretty much eliminate any comfortable seating at the stern.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
51,235
best way to convert the wrong bimini to the right bimini is a 3 step process:
  1. sell the bimini you have for a small pile of cash
  2. empty wallet onto pile making slightly larger pile of cash
  3. take slightly larger pile of cash and buy the bimini you need
 

MTboatguy

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Jul 8, 2010
Messages
8,988
best way to convert the wrong bimini to the right bimini is a 3 step process:
  1. sell the bimini you have for a small pile of cash
  2. empty wallet onto pile making slightly larger pile of cash
  3. take slightly larger pile of cash and buy the bimini you need


:rockon:
 

ajgraz

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Mar 1, 2010
Messages
1,858
Is it 5' across the top? Will the poles "angle out" far enough to span the 6' gunwales? Depending how you plan to lay it down, it may be best that the top is narrow compared to the "arm span" at the mounting. Pics of the boat and bimini would help?

I just put a bimini that's 8' long and 61" wide (across the top) on my small center console, and the mounting points at the gunwales are 78" apart. It lays down forward, laying on the fore part of the gunnels, nestling inside the bowrail, ahead of the front cooler seat. I used angled deck mounts to achieve that, they also make ball-and-socket mounts.

(Granted, I extended the main poles of the bimini and made longer support poles, 'cause I needed the extra height for my console, rods, gaff, etc. Turns out the bimini kit itself was only half of the total cost of the project...)
 

SkiGuy1980

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 10, 2017
Messages
138
I'm thinkin' I'd follow Scott's approach... and end up with a top that looked like it belonged on the boat.
 

spoon059

Cadet
Joined
Jul 16, 2018
Messages
19
You can buy a bimini for $200 and it'll fit your boat. I wouldn't force fit something that will look terrible and perform terrible just to save $200. That's just my opinion thou...
 

Dustballs

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 26, 2018
Messages
38
best way to convert the wrong bimini to the right bimini is a 3 step process:
  1. sell the bimini you have for a small pile of cash
  2. empty wallet onto pile making slightly larger pile of cash
  3. take slightly larger pile of cash and buy the bimini you need

LOL. Good one.
 

Dustballs

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 26, 2018
Messages
38
Is it 5' across the top? Will the poles "angle out" far enough to span the 6' gunwales? Depending how you plan to lay it down, it may be best that the top is narrow compared to the "arm span" at the mounting. Pics of the boat and bimini would help?

I just put a bimini that's 8' long and 61" wide (across the top) on my small center console, and the mounting points at the gunwales are 78" apart. It lays down forward, laying on the fore part of the gunnels, nestling inside the bowrail, ahead of the front cooler seat. I used angled deck mounts to achieve that, they also make ball-and-socket mounts.

(Granted, I extended the main poles of the bimini and made longer support poles, 'cause I needed the extra height for my console, rods, gaff, etc. Turns out the bimini kit itself was only half of the total cost of the project...)

It’s 5’ at the mounting poles. Sounds like you did a lot of work to get it mounted. Can you share a pic of what it looks like?
 

ajgraz

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Mar 1, 2010
Messages
1,858
The only GD way I'm getting photos onto this forum today is by putting them in an "ideabook", hope this link works, or click my username, or some cripe(?!?) to see them:

https://www.iboats.com/ideabook/bimini

The bimini kit itself was about $150. Altogether this project ran me $350-$400, depending how you count the costs (I already had some stuff around, like the Starboard for blocks, read on...). Most stuff got from EBAY, some from amazon, some from boltdepot.com, some local HW store, some from right here on iBoats store.

One of the pics shows the finished install, I modded the bimini to give me almost 8' underneath (you may not need all that) so I could stow rods, gaff, put up my console-top-mounted 4' antenna, etc. I made replacement support poles (longer) to do this, and in another pic you can see how I extended the "main hoop" poles using s.s. tubing, s.s. set-screw tubing joiners (and s.s. clamp-on jaw slides as a place to hold the support poles when stowed, and s.s. end-eyes with dual set screws). In another pic, you can see that I mounted the s.s. quick-pin deck mounts (they are cast with a 10 degree inward angle) pad eyes, and pin cables onto a block of starboard (thru-bolted thru the deck mounts, other items screwed to block); this was to minimize the number of screws needing sealing, as well as give a little "height" for the stowed support poles when "folded under" the main poles. Such blocks might also be useful on, say, an aluminum boat that maybe doesn't have that much gunwale width.

I also replaced the self-tapping screws attaching the nylon jaw slides to the aluminum tubing with countersink rivets...way more secure!

This install does mix stainless and aluminum, but this boat is a "trailer queen" and gets rinsed well after each salt trip. Last boat had a similarly constructed mixed metals top and lasted 15 years...though it came with higher quality bimini fabric. This is a bimini cheap enough that if it tatters in 5 yrs, I'll just get another one (or perhaps a better one) and all the "hard part" is already done.

EDIT: Tested that install this last Sunday up to 35mph, a slight side-to-side "wiggle" but no significant problems.

EDIT 2: Not well-shown in photos, but underneath the rolled-up cover on the bow are another set of blocks and deck mounts (non-angled, as these blocks are closer together abeam); this whole top can be moved to a "forward" mounting position that shades the entire bow area, for when the wife and kids just wanna sit and chat, and I wanna fish off the back.

EDIT 3: Note that this top is installed "backwards" from what you normally see. Typically folks put the support poles in the back and stow the top rearward (i.e., lay down toward the transom). The way I installed it, it lays down toward the bow. That does block my anchor locker, but I can stow it forward, upright on the support poles (but still zipped up and "not opened") to solve that problem...I tested that to 45mph.
 
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