Boat had been stored for 19 years

[tr@v1s]

I need the Mercruiser experts to give me some guidance. I just bought a 1988 Glassport 165RX with the 3.0 Mercruiser (Alpha one Gen one) on a galvanized Shore Lander trailer. Boat was last on the water in 2006 and winterized professionally in Maine. It has not been started since then.

The floor has some dry rotting and all vinyl and seats will have to be replaced if I want to restore it. The hull is in decent condition. Of course none of that really matters unless the motor and drive are good.

Here's the good:
Trailer pulled home over an hour with no issues. Hubs are cool. Tires are good and lights even work.

Shift/throttle cable and linkages all seem good as well as steering.

Outdrive locked in solid as a rock both ways when shifted forward and reverse and spun freely with no noise or resistance when in neutral.
Outside of some minor rust and a few wires that a mouse got ahold of, the motor looked good and the oil looked perfect.

Here's the part I need lots of wisdom on:

I didn't try to turn the motor over with it having set almost 2 decades and I want to do things right to have the best chance of this thing running without a rebuild being needed.

So, please tell me exactly what steps you would take prior to trying to start the motor to attempt to avoid any issues. Please include the order you would do those steps in and what suggestions you have for the outdrive as well.

Here's my goal with the boat:

Get it running first. Then make sure it floats and doesn't have any major issues with the hull that I didn't notice. Then restore the interior and try flip it for a decent profit if all goes well.

I only gave $500 for it. So I figure the outdrive and trailer are worth way more than that if the motor is shot for some reason. Hoping I can have less than $2500 total in it (doing all the work myself) and be able to sell it around $4,000 - 5,000. Figure its a great opportunity for me to learn more on the Mercruisers and get back into working on boats again without much risk.

 

[Candy Gramformongo]

Sounds like a awesome project.

If it was put up in 2006 with fuel in the tank, then the tank will have to be removed and cleaned out, and all the old hoses replaced. Don't just put in some gas to see what happens. If you want to try to start it before then, use a temporary tank with fresh gas hooked up to the fuel pump with newish hose.

With a good battery and an oil change, you should be able to start it on the temporary tank to see how it goes and what else needs to be fixed. You'll need to put the drive in water or hook up muffs to prevent damage to the water pump in the drive.

 

[tpenfield]

The trailer is worth what you paid, so you are even at this point.

Engine:
I would get some PB blaster (or similar) into the cylinders (take spark plugs out)

I would also remove the distributor and use a drill w/ an oil pump attachment to get some oil up into the rotating assembly.

Then maybe a strap around the crankshaft pulley to see if you can get the crank & pistons to move.

Boat/hull:
Assume that the stringers and bulkheads are probably rotten, since the floor is rotting. You might be tight on a $2,500 budget to re-build from the keel-up

I do marine upholstery as a sideline job . . . a re-upholstery would run about $2,500-3,000, figuring you may need both vinyl and cushion foam.

People generally do not make money flipping project boats. It tends to be more a labor of love.

BTW - If you do not have the proper proof-of-ownership paperwork (i.e. Title), then you should not proceed until that is sorted out.

 

[Scott Danforth]

you are light on your estimates to redo the floor. the floor is the last thing to rot. you will spend $3500 just to redo the hull, add another $2-3000 if you sew your own seat covers. then you have rigging stuff like blowers and bilge pump, etc that you will need to most likely replace

if you want to make a small pile of cash restoring and flipping boats, you must start with a large pile.

you will spend at least $350 just on maintenance bits for the motor and drive. and another $350 just on PPE

go to the sticky. https://forums.iboats.com/threads/how-tos-and-other-great-information.283508/ read links 14, 15, 18, 2, 3, 4a, and 4b in that order

regarding your motor. pull the drive. either the drive is locked up, or the motor is locked up. either way, you need to pull the drive first, then see if the motor is free.
step 1 in pulling the motor is the drive.

lot of good mercruiser information in the stickies. https://forums.iboats.com/threads/must-have-technical-information-for-diyers.335378/

read and understand points style ignition. you will need to service your points before trying to fire it, long after you address everything else.

pull the valve covers and make sure all your valves open and close and none are rusted close

your boats fuel system will need to be cleaned from the tank to the carb

 

[Candy Gramformongo]

I don't think anything is locked up. He said the drive spun freely in neutral and solidly went ("locked") into forward and reverse. That was my understanding, anyway. So the suggestion of PB Blaster, a strap to turn the crank, and preoiling with the distributor shaft are probably unnecessary. I have revived many engines that have not been run in 20-30 years, and usually fresh gas, an oil change and a battery are all it takes, and they run the same as they did the last time they were run.

Having just done a "free boat" project like his, in my opinion his prime directive needs to be first verify as soon and as cheaply as possible that this is a viable boat to spend time on. That means first get the engine running to check oil pressure and do a compression test.

 

[Scott06]

I need the Mercruiser experts to give me some guidance. I just bought a 1988 Glassport 165RX with the 3.0 Mercruiser (Alpha one Gen one) on a galvanized Shore Lander trailer. Boat was last on the water in 2006 and winterized professionally in Maine. It has not been started since then.

The floor has some dry rotting and all vinyl and seats will have to be replaced if I want to restore it. The hull is in decent condition. Of course none of that really matters unless the motor and drive are good.

Here's the good:
Trailer pulled home over an hour with no issues. Hubs are cool. Tires are good and lights even work.

Shift/throttle cable and linkages all seem good as well as steering.

Outdrive locked in solid as a rock both ways when shifted forward and reverse and spun freely with no noise or resistance when in neutral.
Outside of some minor rust and a few wires that a mouse got ahold of, the motor looked good and the oil looked perfect.

Here's the part I need lots of wisdom on:

I didn't try to turn the motor over with it having set almost 2 decades and I want to do things right to have the best chance of this thing running without a rebuild being needed.

So, please tell me exactly what steps you would take prior to trying to start the motor to attempt to avoid any issues. Please include the order you would do those steps in and what suggestions you have for the outdrive as well.

Here's my goal with the boat:

Get it running first. Then make sure it floats and doesn't have any major issues with the hull that I didn't notice. Then restore the interior and try flip it for a decent profit if all goes well.

I only gave $500 for it. So I figure the outdrive and trailer are worth way more than that if the motor is shot for some reason. Hoping I can have less than $2500 total in it (doing all the work myself) and be able to sell it around $4,000 - 5,000. Figure its a great opportunity for me to learn more on the Mercruisers and get back into working on boats again without much risk.

Some good thoughts on the motor above. take plugs out try to turn it over you may get lucky. I have had engines sit for years and turn over no issue.

if it does get hung up pull the drive as the drive, ujoints and gimbal could be locking it up not just the engine.

Only huge flag I see is the floor damage is probably indicative of stringer and transom rot. so I think the hole will be much bigger than you may think.

Also if you are doing this to flip I dont think that you will get people to chuck up $4-5 k for a nearly 40 year old basic bowrider. Would consider that before getting in too deep. You would probably make more money for less work getting it running and pulling/selling the running gear and trailer

 

[airshot]

In my opinion, the stringers and transom that are rotted out will be you biggest challenge and cost ! Fiberglass work is nasty, expensive and a serious health issue. Watched to many battle health issues after working with fiberglass, not for me. The motor will be the easiest and probably the cheapest part if your resurection. Doing it to make money ???? I have a bridge to sell you where you could make far more !!

 

[nola mike]

Only huge flag I see is the floor damage is probably indicative of stringer and transom rot. so I think the hole will be much bigger than you may think.

Also if you are doing this to flip I dont think that you will get people to chuck up $4-5 k for a nearly 40 year old basic bowrider. Would consider that before getting in too deep. You would probably make more money for less work getting it running and pulling/selling the running gear and trailer

It's strange having to think that the running gear is the easy part, but it absolutely is. No way to flip this boat unless you part it out if the floor is rotten (in which case you might get $1-1.5k). Even a basic floor redo if the stringers and transom are solid is $500+ and a lot of effort. Upholstery if custom and you pay for it is cost prohibitive. Depending on the boat, you could buy pre fab seats for cheaper. I layed a new floor, gel coat. Completely new interior configuration from the typical 2+2/jump seat bowrider layout. I had a couple of pieces upholstered, did some myself, and used prefab captains chairs and pontoon seating for the rear bench. These are from 2017 but still holding up well. Looking through my records, I see $1500 on the seats and vinyl/foam/etc, $400 for glass. Plus $220 for the upholstery work, however much for the plywood (only 2-3 sheets), misc expenses...so maybe $2500-3k. And a lot of work.

Boat interior · Sunday, Aug 27, 2017 📸

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goo.gl

 

[Scott06]

It's strange having to think that the running gear is the easy part, but it absolutely is. No way to flip this boat unless you part it out if the floor is rotten (in which case you might get $1-1.5k). Even a basic floor redo if the stringers and transom are solid is $500+ and a lot of effort. Upholstery if custom and you pay for it is cost prohibitive. Depending on the boat, you could buy pre fab seats for cheaper. I layed a new floor, gel coat. Completely new interior configuration from the typical 2+2/jump seat bowrider layout. I had a couple of pieces upholstered, did some myself, and used prefab captains chairs and pontoon seating for the rear bench. These are from 2017 but still holding up well. Looking through my records, I see $1500 on the seats and vinyl/foam/etc, $400 for glass. Plus $220 for the upholstery work, however much for the plywood (only 2-3 sheets), misc expenses...so maybe $2500-3k. And a lot of work.

Boat interior · Sunday, Aug 27, 2017 📸

Shared album · Tap to view!

goo.gl

100% when I bought my current boat in 2015 it was an 11 year old/ 37 hr boat where PO cracked the block. other than the engine, trailer tires/brakes everything else was near perfect. You'd be better off for flip boats to get a blown engine , then go to the junkyard for a long block

 

[bigblocksarefun]

This may be a bigger can of worms than you anticipated or wanted (I've been down this road lol).....however:
1. Remove spark plugs, fog the cylinders with oil (I am partial to Marvel Mystery oil in cases like this). Give it a day or two, then put a socket on the crank pulley and see if it will turn by hand. If it isn't locked up this should be pretty easy with no compression resistance; go to step 2. If it is locked up, quit now. At best a rebuild, worst engine replacement.
2. Get a fresh/good battery in it (if you haven't already to test the 12V electrical system). Reinstall the plugs (or install new ones, spark plugs are cheap). Disconnect the engine from the onboard/internal tank; get a portable tank with fresh gas. Connect the portable tank, pour a little gas down the carb throat, PUT THE FLAME ARRESTOR BACK ON, and give it a whirl. Some carb cleaner in the carb might not hurt considering how long it has sat.

 

[airshot]

100% when I bought my current boat in 2015 it was an 11 year old/ 37 hr boat where PO cracked the block. other than the engine, trailer tires/brakes everything else was near perfect. You'd be better off for flip boats to get a blown engine , then go to the junkyard for a long block

In my area, if you plan on making money on a boat flip, you start with an aluminum hull ( mabey wood for serious collecters) glass work is to time and costly to make money.