Boat newbi

Phoster

Cadet
Joined
May 9, 2011
Messages
11
Just bought my first boat. Its a tracker TX 17 with a 40 HP 94 Mercury 4 cylinder, 2 stroke. I noticed a little oil coming out of the small ports just below the junction of the lower unit and main body of the engine (I think they are the pee-holes). It begain to leak when I trimmed the motor up to store in my garage. No leaking when fully trimmed down. No water in the lower unit and no frothy or white oil. When I pulled some oil, it was clean and yellowish. After a little research, sounds like I have a leak in my lower unit and should have it fixed soon, if not immediately. I am fairly mechanically inclined, should I attempt to replace the seals or pay to have it done? Also any recommendations on if I should run it at all until its fixed. If I can believe the guy I bought it from, he has been running it for months now. Thank you for your help. Chris
 

Phoster

Cadet
Joined
May 9, 2011
Messages
11
Re: Boat newbi

Well, I just took off the lower nut instead of the top and, ta-dah, 2 ounces of water. Oh-joy! So I have a bigger seal problem than what I thought. What now, replace seals myself or pay to have it done? Any idea how much it costs to have it done? And if I do pay to have it done, should I buy the proper seal kit myself or should I have the shop buy it? Thanks, full of joy.
 

pinellas50

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 10, 2009
Messages
207
Re: Boat newbi

Well, first you need to figure out which seals are leaking. Search on here, not easy to do anymore with the new search function IMO, for lower unit pressure test. You basically pressurize the lower with a small amount of air pressure and put the lower in water to look for bubbles is how I understand it. If you can't find it here try youtube.

It might be something easy like the seals for the fill and drain plugs. It might be more expensive. Find out where the water intrusion is coming from and go from there.

And I personally wouldn't run it like that. Water doesn't lubricate metal parts too well. But it will make them a pretty shade of blue.
 

jbjennings

Captain
Joined
Jul 18, 2007
Messages
3,903
Re: Boat newbi

Did you mean you took out the bottom oil drain plug (screw) and the lower unit had water in it? You said "nut" so just checking....
If there was water in the lower unit and it's a '94 model, you might consider just getting a lower unit seal kit and replacing all of them and being done with it for a while. BUt, you were given good advice above, and cost effective as well! A reseal is doable for you with a manual and the right tools, like a seal puller, but there's no substitute for experience and if you decide to pay a mechanic, I'd get all the seals changed out unless you get lucky and it's a drain plug washer that's leaking. Taking off the lower unit and breaking it apart requires a little time, and not much more time to change them all out at once.
The reason I asked if it was the drain plug and not a nut is because it's common for unburnt fuel to come out those drain holes in the lower unit and some folks think their lower unit is leaking......
Just some of my thoughts.
JBJ
 

Phoster

Cadet
Joined
May 9, 2011
Messages
11
Re: Boat newbi

Yes, I meant plug and not nut, sorry. I am certain it is the lower unit fluid. After a search of the boats compartments (after purchase, wish I would have looked b4 I bought!) I found a bottle of lower unit lube stashed away, same stuff that's coming out of the holes. It has the same color and smell. Thank you jbjennings, I appreciate it.
 

Phoster

Cadet
Joined
May 9, 2011
Messages
11
Re: Boat newbi

I think I am going to do this myself. I see several different seal kits available. Does anyone know for certain which kit I need for my 40 HP 94 Mercury 4 cylinder, 2 stroke?
 

Phoster

Cadet
Joined
May 9, 2011
Messages
11
Re: Boat newbi

I think this may help. The serial # on the engine is OGO96410. Also, If I understand correctly I will need a Shift Shaft Bushing Tool. If there is more than more size, I would need that part # too. Thank you everyone.
 

windy5849

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 12, 2010
Messages
237
Re: Boat newbi

Posting the engine serial number will help someone find the correct parts for your motor.
We were typing at the same time - sorry.
 
Last edited:

carholme

Rear Admiral
Joined
Sep 4, 2010
Messages
4,845
Re: Boat newbi

Phoster;

That s/n comes up as a model:

1040412PT MERCURY 1994 40

Parts listing:

http://www.crowleymarine.com/mercury-outboard/543.cfm

Service Manual P/N: 90-814676R1

http://1manual.com/Mercury manuals/Service Manual PDFs/TwoStroke/814676r1/cover.pdf

You need Adobe Acrobat Reader to use this manual. If you scroll down to the lower part of the opening page, you will see the various engine components in red. Click on the one you want and when the first page opens, click on the "Save As" icon at the top LH corner of the page and you can save it to your computer.

By all means, do it yourself, you will feel great for attempting it and even better when you have it running.

Gerry
 

Phoster

Cadet
Joined
May 9, 2011
Messages
11
Re: Boat newbi

Alright I have the lower unit off and in the vice, no problems. Checked the water pump housing and impeller cant see any defects at all, the impeller looks brand new. Unless anyone can suggest otherwise I plan on ordering a seal kit and replacing those seals. From the look of it, the seal that failed was the shift shaft seal. I have noticed what appears to be the same kit to replace the seals from different sources. 1. Mercury 80.70$ 2.Crowley Marine 78.20$ 3. Iboats - Sierra 49.99$ 4.Iboats - Mallery 41.99. Are all these seals and gaskets the same quality? Is there a justifiable reason to pay more?
 

Phoster

Cadet
Joined
May 9, 2011
Messages
11
Re: Boat newbi

Got everything back together. I have to say I found it much easier than I thought it would be. The shift shaft seal was torn in its middle. Replaced the all the seals and gaskets that came in the kit for the shift shaft and water pump, put on a new lower pump base too as it was torn up from removal. Put the water muffs on it and ran the engine, and there was no water was coming out the pee hole. Took the LU off, pulled the water pump off, put it back on with less torque on the 3 pump housing nuts. Put the LU back on the main body. Muffs back on, worked like a champ, water pump was working great and no more leaking LU oil out the small ports just below the junction of the lower unit and main body. Also noticed that they had 4 gaskets on the fill hole plug, is that a record? Will check the LU oil in the morning for water. If its good will test it on the lake. Thank you JB and carholme for your help.
 
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