Boat Stop to Bowl Loop Distance

[Horigan]

We recently purchased our first boat, a 1995 Chris Craft Concept 21 with original trailer. I wanted experts' opinions on whether I should move my winch tower to get my bow stop closer to the blow loop. As the attached pictures show, I'm limited in how far I can pull the boat forward by the aft lower roller position. When I load per the pictures and I have to do an abrupt stop, the boat slides up to the bow stop and forward of the aft roller. I'm thinking of moving the winch tower back a bit, but I'm concerned about the resultant lifting of the bow and the weight distribution on the bunks moving towards the back. I know I could lower the winch tower also, but another concern is having the winch handle interfere with the boat when I get the the bow loop against the stop.

Should I move the tower back a bit, or are the distances I have now OK and I should just monitor traffic ahead better?

Thanks,
Rich

 

[R055]

The boats been fine sitting on it 21 years without problems, you'll be fine.

 

[redneck joe]

If im reading right just do what i do and hit the breaks before you leave ramp area and winch tight.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

You should consider moving the safety bow chain mount location to the cross member under the bow.

 

[redneck joe]

Just was able to loom at pic. Your strap should be level to the tounge. Yours is downward. Move winch up

 

[Horigan]

Thanks for the inputs.

I'm not seeing how raising the winch would level the cable. Seems like that would make it steeper. I could reverse the cable wrap around the winch spool so it comes off the bottom.

Regarding the safety chain suggestion, what benefit would moving the mounting point to the cross member? Just that it's a stronger location?

Rich

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

Thanks for the inputs.

I'm not seeing how raising the winch would level the cable. Seems like that would make it steeper. I could reverse the cable wrap around the winch spool so it comes off the bottom.

Regarding the safety chain suggestion, what benefit would moving the mounting point to the cross member? Just that it's a stronger location?

Rich

The location of the safety chain has to do with the basic law of physics. An object at rest tends to stay at rest and an object in motion tends to stat in motion.
It looks like you have 18" of chain if the tow vehicle comes to a sudden stop your boat will want to continue it's forward motion. the 18" of chain equals 36" of forward movement. Then the weight/mass of the boat will most likely snap the chain, pull loose of it's anchor point or rip the winch stand off of the tongue.

 

[jimmbo]

Looking at the second picture. It looks like the crossmember had rotated 45 degrees from where it should be. Are the anti rotate anchours missing or sheared?

 

[Horigan]

I'm pretty sure that's the baseline design of the trailer, but I'll check to confirm.

Understood on the safety chain. It thought its function was to keep the boat on in case the cable snapped. I have seen discussions on adding a second chain to address the sudden stop scenario in the picture thread and was considering that.

 

[wrvond]

I can see by the black scuff marks just above the pad eye that somebody has managed to crank that sucker up tight at some point. The rear cross member doesn't look right either, the lights should be pointing directly aft, not down toward the road surface. I've never been a huge fan of bunks sticking out behind the transom, but it doesn't really hurt anything and some boats may actually benefit from the added support (helps prevent hooking).
I would start by rotating the rear cross member then set the boat on the trailer locating it on the bunks where you want it, then adjust the winch so the bumper rests just above the pad eye. You do want to orient the winch so the pull is as straight as possible, any angle is going to reduce the effectiveness of the gear reduction on the winch and make it harder to crank.

 

[JASinIL2006]

That rear cross member does look like it's been rotated. If it were in the correct position, I bet it would raise the level of the bunks and maybe then the boat would be winching up so the bow eye was right up against the bow stop.

Also, I agree that safety chain isn't doing much good. It's of limited value in keeping the boat on trailer in the unlikely event the winch cable snapped and it's of no value at all in keeping the boat on the trailer in the event of a sudden stop. I'd get rid of it, and buy a heavier length of chain and loop it around the trailer frame directly below the bow eye.

Jim

 

[Fed]

Move the post back & the winch down & shorten the safety chain, weight distribution should stay the same as the boat will remain in it's current position.
Adjust them both to get the roller wedged between the top of the loop & the hull.
That's all assuming the winch handle doesn't hit the hull, it looks like it will clear but if it hits then shorten the handle a little.

 

[Horigan]

No Title

Thanks for all the inputs. The rotated cross member is per design. It's a single pivot design that allows the load between the bunks and center roller to self-equalize. As you load the bunks the rollers rotate up, and vise versa. You all had me worried there until I went out to look at it. See photos below.

Given all that I'll just move the post back and down a bit, as suggested above, as well as replace the safety chain with a larger one that connects to the cross member. The black marks are from hard braking and having the boat slide up against the roller, which I've since replaced with a clear poly version.

Thanks again for all the seasoned advice. This is a great site.

Rich

 

[Fed]

You need the chain connected to the winch stand in case of a winch cable failure.
In my area a winch is not classified as a load restraint hence the reason for the chain.
When it's adjusted properly the winch post serves to hold against all movement, left, right, backwards, forwards, up & down.
All that's left is rear tie downs, slack out but NOT overly tight just snug.

 

[jimmbo]

Thanks for all the inputs. The rotated cross member is per design. It's a single pivot design that allows the load between the bunks and center roller to self-equalize. As you load the bunks the rollers rotate up, and vise versa. You all had me worried there until I went out to look at it. See photos below.


Rich

Your trailer is a Calkins, Their later model roller trailers had the crossmembers that pivoted, their bunk models didn't pivot the crossmembers. I suspect your trailer original had rollers and someone changed it

 

[Horigan]

Your trailer is a Calkins, Their later model roller trailers had the crossmembers that pivoted, their bunk models didn't pivot the crossmembers. I suspect your trailer original had rollers and someone changed it

Interesting. Yes, it's a 1995 Calkins. I don't believe the original owner who bought it new changed to bunks, but I'll ask him.

On the chain issue I think I'll just add a second chain to the frame to address the sudden stop issue so I don't end up in the funny/unsafe picture thread... I can see the benefits of both applications.

Rich